high idle
05-16-2007, 09:15 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
05-16-2007, 09:15 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
05-16-2007, 09:15 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>> and... anyway.
>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>
>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>
>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>
>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>
>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>> near any?
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
Mike
05-16-2007, 10:34 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
05-16-2007, 10:34 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
05-16-2007, 10:34 AM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
05-16-2007, 10:34 AM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb...@webtv.net (Mike chambers) wrote:
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
> It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
> and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
> on. It is fine with out it.
>
> Later Mike
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?
05-16-2007, 10:38 AM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
05-16-2007, 10:38 AM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
05-16-2007, 10:38 AM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
