Cal Wheeler

Bob wrote:

> Cal...
>
> Well, if I only knew...
>
> I didn't break the "ears" (if I guess correctly what you mean by
> "ears"). I broke the damnable edge of the hole where the pickup tube
> goes in.

See? It's a pain in the ***, ain't it?

>Pickup tube (where the O-Ring is) now won't stay in securely.
> So, I guess I busted my oil pump.

Naw. It doesn't really stay in "secure" in the first place. I bet you
could fix it with JB Weld or one of those "tootsie roll" type of
metal-filled putty epoxies. So long as you rough up and thoroughly
degrease the mating surface so it doesn't come free later
>
> Where do I find a new one?

Dealer!

>How much am I going to be paying for one of
> these suckers?

Dunno, but I'll bet $120 or so. Worth trying the epoxy fix, maybe.

Wait; you may be in luck:

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/HardPart1045.html

Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler

Part Number:
4338936

Years:
1984-2002*

Description:
Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler

Short Description:
HOUSING

Price:
$57.93

>
> I assume you had to replace your oil pump when you broke the ears,
> Cal?

Au contraire, mon frere! Kludged a fix myself:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/calwheele.../img_1623.html


>
> Also, I am doing this conversion with the case still in the Jeep (I
> didn't feel up to trying to remove the case from the drivetrain).

I removed it, and it was a knuckle-busting pain and waste.

>It
> seems impossible to keep the silicone seal from dripping inside the
> case, onto the drive chain.

You're probably using too much. Just a 1/4" bead'll do ya, as long as
it's continuous.

>Is this bad? Or can I just assume the
> silicone will be obliterated by the chain's operation?

Exactly. However, that chunk of silicone could end up blocking that
black screen that filters the recirculating oil, so...

> I would, of
> course, intend to change the t-case fluid very soon after this mod is
> complete...

If you do, don't drain it from the bottom drain plug. Drain it from the
hex detent spring plug, at the bottom! Don't lose that spring or detent
pin, though!

>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
> [Ah well, I guess I'm not quite the nifty mechanic I thought I was!
> This is really sucking, and I think I just now negated the cost
> savings I was trying for by doing this labor myself. UGH!]

Not necessarily. Dude! I feel your pain!
>
> Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn1hup$tqa$1@pita.alt.net>...
>
>>Bob, just make VERY SURE when you apply that silicone and close it up
>>that your "oil pump" is PRECSELY positioned. I didn't, and busted the
>>ears off the sucker. Had to wait for the silicone to harden, then take
>>the whole thing off, fix it, and try again.
>>
>>
>>
>>Bob wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You are correct. I am doing an Adv. Adapters SYE install, so I had to
>>>split the case. After removing the case, and taking out the magnet
>>>that sits at the bottom of the case next to the oil pump pickup line,
>>>I was just having a clumsy moment while trying wipe the metal shavings
>>>from the magnet, and dropped it on the garage floor. Shatter. Oh well.
>>>I found one of the four wheel shops here (high country perf. 4x4) who
>>>has some magnets of the right size.
>>>
>>>I tried the "old hard drive magnet" idea, btw. It had promise, and the
>>>magnets were certainly strong enough (damn!), but they weren't the
>>>right shape, and I just couldn't get them oriented in such a way as to
>>>feel confident they wouldn't one day work their way loose, slip up
>>>into the case, and instantly snap ahold of the front shaft's chain
>>>gear, thereby blowing up my t-case.
>>>
>>>Thanks for all the suggestions. The use of a magnetic fill or drain
>>>plug was a good one. By the time I got back to the house from my
>>>search for the magnet and read the posts, though, it was too late (on
>>>a sunday) to go searching for such a plug. This SYE install just looks
>>>to be turning into a 4 day fiasco. ;-)
>>>
>>>/Bob
>>>
>>>"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-bOd3dt2QuMig@anon.none.net>...
>>>
>>>
>>>>He split the case, apparently. The magnet sits in a slot below the
>>>>drain plug. Any strong magnet that will fit and stay in place should
>>>>work, but I have no idea where to get one other than from a rebuilder
>>>>who happens to have a stack out of the blown cases.
>>>>
>>>>On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:54:48 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>>>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I don't know what slot you are referring to nor have I ever seen a
>>>>>washer magnet for a drain plug....
>>>>>
>>>>>I have seen drain plugs with round bar magnets stuck in the end, maybe
>>>>>one of those might be around as an aftermarket part?
>>>>>
>>>>>Just sticking a bar or round magnet on the head of the bolt will
>>>>>magnetize the inside of the bolt. A dab of silicone would help it stay
>>>>>put between changes.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Bob wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Does it matter if the new magnet is the same size/shape exactly as the
>>>>>>old one? I've been putting effort into finding a same-size, washer
>>>>>>shaped, (with hole in the middle) magnet, as near identical to the one
>>>>>>I broke as possible. Is this a pointless search? Can I just use any
>>>>>>strong magnet that fits in the slot?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>/Bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:<L6zkb.17086$iq3.4520@okepread01>...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Salvage a magnet from an old dead hard drive if you have one.
>>>>>>>The stronger the better. Those are usually powerfull enough to
>>>>>>>pinch your fingers so they will hold well.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>That magnet is just to collect metal from the original assembly
>>>>>>>as the parts wear in. Usually it doesn't collect much more after
>>>>>>>that.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>Bob did pass the time by typing:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I am doing my slip-yoke eliminator conversion this weekend. While
>>>>>>>>cleaning the magnet that goes in the bottom of the case, I
>>>>>>>>accidentally dropped it (from less than a foot above the
>>>>>>>>ground...these things are fragile!), and it shattered.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I need a new magnet!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>So, does anyone have some suggestions where I might find one (specific
>>>>>>>>stores would be great; I live in the Denver, CO area) that will
>>>>>>>>replace this washer-shaped magnet? Would any old magnet of the correct
>>>>>>>>dimensions do? I really would like to get it today, if possible;
>>>>>>>>however, I realize that may prove impossible, with it being Sunday.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Any and all suggestions are appreciated, whether the suggested
>>>>>>>>location is open today or tomorrow.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Thanks!

Bob

Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn2fa8$out$0@pita.alt.net>...
> Bob wrote:
>
> > Cal...
> >
> > Well, if I only knew...
> >
> > I didn't break the "ears" (if I guess correctly what you mean by
> > "ears"). I broke the damnable edge of the hole where the pickup tube
> > goes in.
>
> See? It's a pain in the ***, ain't it?

Yup!

>
> >Pickup tube (where the O-Ring is) now won't stay in securely.
> > So, I guess I busted my oil pump.
>
> Naw. It doesn't really stay in "secure" in the first place. I bet you
> could fix it with JB Weld or one of those "tootsie roll" type of
> metal-filled putty epoxies. So long as you rough up and thoroughly
> degrease the mating surface so it doesn't come free later

I'm not sure how to use JB Weld or what you mean by "tootsie roll"
epoxy. I know what JB Weld is, but have never used it. Additionally, I
can't find the metal piece of the hole that is missing, so I don't
really have anything to weld together. And I don't think you were
implying I should just use a bunch of JB Weld to "fill" the gap...(the
gap is about 2/3 of the circumference of the tube opening on the
pump). Any suggestions?

> >
> > Where do I find a new one?
>
> Dealer!

Ugh!

>
> >How much am I going to be paying for one of
> > these suckers?
>
> Dunno, but I'll bet $120 or so. Worth trying the epoxy fix, maybe.
>
> Wait; you may be in luck:
>
> http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/HardPart1045.html
>
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Part Number:
> 4338936
>
> Years:
> 1984-2002*
>
> Description:
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Short Description:
> HOUSING
>
> Price:
> $57.93
>

I noticed those after posting, too. It confuses me that it calls it
the "housing" and not just the "pump". I'm not sure this is the same
thing...what do you think? It looks kinda like it in the exploded view
pic on the site; but the pic is so low-res it's hard to tell...

> >
> > I assume you had to replace your oil pump when you broke the ears,
> > Cal?
>
> Au contraire, mon frere! Kludged a fix myself:
>
> http://pages.sbcglobal.net/calwheele.../img_1623.html
>

Nice job! How did you break the ears off, anyway? Since they go on the
outside of the case, it surprises me you managed to tear them off...

> >
> > Also, I am doing this conversion with the case still in the Jeep (I
> > didn't feel up to trying to remove the case from the drivetrain).
>
> I removed it, and it was a knuckle-busting pain and waste.
>

I looked under there and said "damn! no way I'm taking this thing
off!".

> >It
> > seems impossible to keep the silicone seal from dripping inside the
> > case, onto the drive chain.
>
> You're probably using too much. Just a 1/4" bead'll do ya, as long as
> it's continuous.
>

Ahh... I'm using some of the heavy-duty black junk, in a caulk-style
dispenser. I left a pretty good bead all the way around. I didn't
think I used too much, but if 1/4" will do, I might've used a bit too
much. That junk sucks. It took me 2 hours to clean it all (make
that...most of it all) off my hands and arms...and that only by using
a damn scotch-brite scouring sponge. Ouch! I wish there was some sort
of pre-fabbed gasket I could use instead of that junk!

> >Is this bad? Or can I just assume the
> > silicone will be obliterated by the chain's operation?
>
> Exactly. However, that chunk of silicone could end up blocking that
> black screen that filters the recirculating oil, so...

Ack! Don't want that to happen!

> > I would, of
> > course, intend to change the t-case fluid very soon after this mod is
> > complete...
>
> If you do, don't drain it from the bottom drain plug. Drain it from the
> hex detent spring plug, at the bottom! Don't lose that spring or detent
> pin, though!

I'm not sure what plug you are talking about. I'll have to look under
the jeep tonight and try to figure that one out.

> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> > [Ah well, I guess I'm not quite the nifty mechanic I thought I was!
> > This is really sucking, and I think I just now negated the cost
> > savings I was trying for by doing this labor myself. UGH!]
>
> Not necessarily. Dude! I feel your pain!

Thanks ;-) But if you really felt my pain, you'd be coming over here
and helping me put this stupid thing back together =D

I think I'll try again with a new pump (or fixed...whatever) before I
tow it to a shop and have them finish it for me. My friend helping me
won't like that idea, though; he was none too happy about the gooey
mess made by the RTV either.


Thanks for all your help and advice, man.

/Bob

How about I tack on one more question really quick. After the little
jolt that caused the oil pump to bust, I took everything back out,
including the chain and both shafts, to clean the RTV off of them.
That arm thing that goes to the shifter rail has a sort of "fork" that
goes around a ring that goes around the drive shaft. Is the ring
supposed to be connected to that "fork" in any way? I noticed it is
just sitting there, and will slide around freely in the fork, or pull
out of the fork to the side (away from the center of the case). I
can't pull it entirely free of the fork in that way, of course,
because the edge of the case stops it before it clears both "prongs"
of the "fork". I just want to make sure that is how it's supposed to
work. I'm all paranoid now since I accidentally forced something and
definitely broke at least one thing (the pump) in the process. Thanks!



> >
> > Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn1hup$tqa$1@pita.alt.net>...
> >
> >>Bob, just make VERY SURE when you apply that silicone and close it up
> >>that your "oil pump" is PRECSELY positioned. I didn't, and busted the
> >>ears off the sucker. Had to wait for the silicone to harden, then take
> >>the whole thing off, fix it, and try again.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Bob wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You are correct. I am doing an Adv. Adapters SYE install, so I had to
> >>>split the case. After removing the case, and taking out the magnet
> >>>that sits at the bottom of the case next to the oil pump pickup line,
> >>>I was just having a clumsy moment while trying wipe the metal shavings
> >>>from the magnet, and dropped it on the garage floor. Shatter. Oh well.
> >>>I found one of the four wheel shops here (high country perf. 4x4) who
> >>>has some magnets of the right size.
> >>>
> >>>I tried the "old hard drive magnet" idea, btw. It had promise, and the
> >>>magnets were certainly strong enough (damn!), but they weren't the
> >>>right shape, and I just couldn't get them oriented in such a way as to
> >>>feel confident they wouldn't one day work their way loose, slip up
> >>>into the case, and instantly snap ahold of the front shaft's chain
> >>>gear, thereby blowing up my t-case.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks for all the suggestions. The use of a magnetic fill or drain
> >>>plug was a good one. By the time I got back to the house from my
> >>>search for the magnet and read the posts, though, it was too late (on
> >>>a sunday) to go searching for such a plug. This SYE install just looks
> >>>to be turning into a 4 day fiasco. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>/Bob
> >>>
> >>>"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-bOd3dt2QuMig@anon.none.net>...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>He split the case, apparently. The magnet sits in a slot below the
> >>>>drain plug. Any strong magnet that will fit and stay in place should
> >>>>work, but I have no idea where to get one other than from a rebuilder
> >>>>who happens to have a stack out of the blown cases.
> >>>>
> >>>>On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:54:48 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>>>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I don't know what slot you are referring to nor have I ever seen a
> >>>>>washer magnet for a drain plug....
> >>>>>
> >>>>>I have seen drain plugs with round bar magnets stuck in the end, maybe
> >>>>>one of those might be around as an aftermarket part?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Just sticking a bar or round magnet on the head of the bolt will
> >>>>>magnetize the inside of the bolt. A dab of silicone would help it stay
> >>>>>put between changes.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Bob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>Does it matter if the new magnet is the same size/shape exactly as the
> >>>>>>old one? I've been putting effort into finding a same-size, washer
> >>>>>>shaped, (with hole in the middle) magnet, as near identical to the one
> >>>>>>I broke as possible. Is this a pointless search? Can I just use any
> >>>>>>strong magnet that fits in the slot?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>/Bob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:<L6zkb.17086$iq3.4520@okepread01>...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>Salvage a magnet from an old dead hard drive if you have one.
> >>>>>>>The stronger the better. Those are usually powerfull enough to
> >>>>>>>pinch your fingers so they will hold well.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>That magnet is just to collect metal from the original assembly
> >>>>>>>as the parts wear in. Usually it doesn't collect much more after
> >>>>>>>that.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>>Bob did pass the time by typing:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I am doing my slip-yoke eliminator conversion this weekend. While
> >>>>>>>>cleaning the magnet that goes in the bottom of the case, I
> >>>>>>>>accidentally dropped it (from less than a foot above the
> >>>>>>>>ground...these things are fragile!), and it shattered.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I need a new magnet!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>So, does anyone have some suggestions where I might find one (specific
> >>>>>>>>stores would be great; I live in the Denver, CO area) that will
> >>>>>>>>replace this washer-shaped magnet? Would any old magnet of the correct
> >>>>>>>>dimensions do? I really would like to get it today, if possible;
> >>>>>>>>however, I realize that may prove impossible, with it being Sunday.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Any and all suggestions are appreciated, whether the suggested
> >>>>>>>>location is open today or tomorrow.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Thanks!

Bob

Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn2fa8$out$0@pita.alt.net>...
> Bob wrote:
>
> > Cal...
> >
> > Well, if I only knew...
> >
> > I didn't break the "ears" (if I guess correctly what you mean by
> > "ears"). I broke the damnable edge of the hole where the pickup tube
> > goes in.
>
> See? It's a pain in the ***, ain't it?

Yup!

>
> >Pickup tube (where the O-Ring is) now won't stay in securely.
> > So, I guess I busted my oil pump.
>
> Naw. It doesn't really stay in "secure" in the first place. I bet you
> could fix it with JB Weld or one of those "tootsie roll" type of
> metal-filled putty epoxies. So long as you rough up and thoroughly
> degrease the mating surface so it doesn't come free later

I'm not sure how to use JB Weld or what you mean by "tootsie roll"
epoxy. I know what JB Weld is, but have never used it. Additionally, I
can't find the metal piece of the hole that is missing, so I don't
really have anything to weld together. And I don't think you were
implying I should just use a bunch of JB Weld to "fill" the gap...(the
gap is about 2/3 of the circumference of the tube opening on the
pump). Any suggestions?

> >
> > Where do I find a new one?
>
> Dealer!

Ugh!

>
> >How much am I going to be paying for one of
> > these suckers?
>
> Dunno, but I'll bet $120 or so. Worth trying the epoxy fix, maybe.
>
> Wait; you may be in luck:
>
> http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/HardPart1045.html
>
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Part Number:
> 4338936
>
> Years:
> 1984-2002*
>
> Description:
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Short Description:
> HOUSING
>
> Price:
> $57.93
>

I noticed those after posting, too. It confuses me that it calls it
the "housing" and not just the "pump". I'm not sure this is the same
thing...what do you think? It looks kinda like it in the exploded view
pic on the site; but the pic is so low-res it's hard to tell...

> >
> > I assume you had to replace your oil pump when you broke the ears,
> > Cal?
>
> Au contraire, mon frere! Kludged a fix myself:
>
> http://pages.sbcglobal.net/calwheele.../img_1623.html
>

Nice job! How did you break the ears off, anyway? Since they go on the
outside of the case, it surprises me you managed to tear them off...

> >
> > Also, I am doing this conversion with the case still in the Jeep (I
> > didn't feel up to trying to remove the case from the drivetrain).
>
> I removed it, and it was a knuckle-busting pain and waste.
>

I looked under there and said "damn! no way I'm taking this thing
off!".

> >It
> > seems impossible to keep the silicone seal from dripping inside the
> > case, onto the drive chain.
>
> You're probably using too much. Just a 1/4" bead'll do ya, as long as
> it's continuous.
>

Ahh... I'm using some of the heavy-duty black junk, in a caulk-style
dispenser. I left a pretty good bead all the way around. I didn't
think I used too much, but if 1/4" will do, I might've used a bit too
much. That junk sucks. It took me 2 hours to clean it all (make
that...most of it all) off my hands and arms...and that only by using
a damn scotch-brite scouring sponge. Ouch! I wish there was some sort
of pre-fabbed gasket I could use instead of that junk!

> >Is this bad? Or can I just assume the
> > silicone will be obliterated by the chain's operation?
>
> Exactly. However, that chunk of silicone could end up blocking that
> black screen that filters the recirculating oil, so...

Ack! Don't want that to happen!

> > I would, of
> > course, intend to change the t-case fluid very soon after this mod is
> > complete...
>
> If you do, don't drain it from the bottom drain plug. Drain it from the
> hex detent spring plug, at the bottom! Don't lose that spring or detent
> pin, though!

I'm not sure what plug you are talking about. I'll have to look under
the jeep tonight and try to figure that one out.

> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> > [Ah well, I guess I'm not quite the nifty mechanic I thought I was!
> > This is really sucking, and I think I just now negated the cost
> > savings I was trying for by doing this labor myself. UGH!]
>
> Not necessarily. Dude! I feel your pain!

Thanks ;-) But if you really felt my pain, you'd be coming over here
and helping me put this stupid thing back together =D

I think I'll try again with a new pump (or fixed...whatever) before I
tow it to a shop and have them finish it for me. My friend helping me
won't like that idea, though; he was none too happy about the gooey
mess made by the RTV either.


Thanks for all your help and advice, man.

/Bob

How about I tack on one more question really quick. After the little
jolt that caused the oil pump to bust, I took everything back out,
including the chain and both shafts, to clean the RTV off of them.
That arm thing that goes to the shifter rail has a sort of "fork" that
goes around a ring that goes around the drive shaft. Is the ring
supposed to be connected to that "fork" in any way? I noticed it is
just sitting there, and will slide around freely in the fork, or pull
out of the fork to the side (away from the center of the case). I
can't pull it entirely free of the fork in that way, of course,
because the edge of the case stops it before it clears both "prongs"
of the "fork". I just want to make sure that is how it's supposed to
work. I'm all paranoid now since I accidentally forced something and
definitely broke at least one thing (the pump) in the process. Thanks!



> >
> > Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn1hup$tqa$1@pita.alt.net>...
> >
> >>Bob, just make VERY SURE when you apply that silicone and close it up
> >>that your "oil pump" is PRECSELY positioned. I didn't, and busted the
> >>ears off the sucker. Had to wait for the silicone to harden, then take
> >>the whole thing off, fix it, and try again.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Bob wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You are correct. I am doing an Adv. Adapters SYE install, so I had to
> >>>split the case. After removing the case, and taking out the magnet
> >>>that sits at the bottom of the case next to the oil pump pickup line,
> >>>I was just having a clumsy moment while trying wipe the metal shavings
> >>>from the magnet, and dropped it on the garage floor. Shatter. Oh well.
> >>>I found one of the four wheel shops here (high country perf. 4x4) who
> >>>has some magnets of the right size.
> >>>
> >>>I tried the "old hard drive magnet" idea, btw. It had promise, and the
> >>>magnets were certainly strong enough (damn!), but they weren't the
> >>>right shape, and I just couldn't get them oriented in such a way as to
> >>>feel confident they wouldn't one day work their way loose, slip up
> >>>into the case, and instantly snap ahold of the front shaft's chain
> >>>gear, thereby blowing up my t-case.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks for all the suggestions. The use of a magnetic fill or drain
> >>>plug was a good one. By the time I got back to the house from my
> >>>search for the magnet and read the posts, though, it was too late (on
> >>>a sunday) to go searching for such a plug. This SYE install just looks
> >>>to be turning into a 4 day fiasco. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>/Bob
> >>>
> >>>"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-bOd3dt2QuMig@anon.none.net>...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>He split the case, apparently. The magnet sits in a slot below the
> >>>>drain plug. Any strong magnet that will fit and stay in place should
> >>>>work, but I have no idea where to get one other than from a rebuilder
> >>>>who happens to have a stack out of the blown cases.
> >>>>
> >>>>On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:54:48 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>>>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I don't know what slot you are referring to nor have I ever seen a
> >>>>>washer magnet for a drain plug....
> >>>>>
> >>>>>I have seen drain plugs with round bar magnets stuck in the end, maybe
> >>>>>one of those might be around as an aftermarket part?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Just sticking a bar or round magnet on the head of the bolt will
> >>>>>magnetize the inside of the bolt. A dab of silicone would help it stay
> >>>>>put between changes.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Bob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>Does it matter if the new magnet is the same size/shape exactly as the
> >>>>>>old one? I've been putting effort into finding a same-size, washer
> >>>>>>shaped, (with hole in the middle) magnet, as near identical to the one
> >>>>>>I broke as possible. Is this a pointless search? Can I just use any
> >>>>>>strong magnet that fits in the slot?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>/Bob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:<L6zkb.17086$iq3.4520@okepread01>...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>Salvage a magnet from an old dead hard drive if you have one.
> >>>>>>>The stronger the better. Those are usually powerfull enough to
> >>>>>>>pinch your fingers so they will hold well.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>That magnet is just to collect metal from the original assembly
> >>>>>>>as the parts wear in. Usually it doesn't collect much more after
> >>>>>>>that.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>>Bob did pass the time by typing:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I am doing my slip-yoke eliminator conversion this weekend. While
> >>>>>>>>cleaning the magnet that goes in the bottom of the case, I
> >>>>>>>>accidentally dropped it (from less than a foot above the
> >>>>>>>>ground...these things are fragile!), and it shattered.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I need a new magnet!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>So, does anyone have some suggestions where I might find one (specific
> >>>>>>>>stores would be great; I live in the Denver, CO area) that will
> >>>>>>>>replace this washer-shaped magnet? Would any old magnet of the correct
> >>>>>>>>dimensions do? I really would like to get it today, if possible;
> >>>>>>>>however, I realize that may prove impossible, with it being Sunday.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Any and all suggestions are appreciated, whether the suggested
> >>>>>>>>location is open today or tomorrow.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Thanks!

Bob

Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn2fa8$out$0@pita.alt.net>...
> Bob wrote:
>
> > Cal...
> >
> > Well, if I only knew...
> >
> > I didn't break the "ears" (if I guess correctly what you mean by
> > "ears"). I broke the damnable edge of the hole where the pickup tube
> > goes in.
>
> See? It's a pain in the ***, ain't it?

Yup!

>
> >Pickup tube (where the O-Ring is) now won't stay in securely.
> > So, I guess I busted my oil pump.
>
> Naw. It doesn't really stay in "secure" in the first place. I bet you
> could fix it with JB Weld or one of those "tootsie roll" type of
> metal-filled putty epoxies. So long as you rough up and thoroughly
> degrease the mating surface so it doesn't come free later

I'm not sure how to use JB Weld or what you mean by "tootsie roll"
epoxy. I know what JB Weld is, but have never used it. Additionally, I
can't find the metal piece of the hole that is missing, so I don't
really have anything to weld together. And I don't think you were
implying I should just use a bunch of JB Weld to "fill" the gap...(the
gap is about 2/3 of the circumference of the tube opening on the
pump). Any suggestions?

> >
> > Where do I find a new one?
>
> Dealer!

Ugh!

>
> >How much am I going to be paying for one of
> > these suckers?
>
> Dunno, but I'll bet $120 or so. Worth trying the epoxy fix, maybe.
>
> Wait; you may be in luck:
>
> http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/HardPart1045.html
>
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Part Number:
> 4338936
>
> Years:
> 1984-2002*
>
> Description:
> Oil Pump Housing & Oil Seal 1987-99 Wrangler
>
> Short Description:
> HOUSING
>
> Price:
> $57.93
>

I noticed those after posting, too. It confuses me that it calls it
the "housing" and not just the "pump". I'm not sure this is the same
thing...what do you think? It looks kinda like it in the exploded view
pic on the site; but the pic is so low-res it's hard to tell...

> >
> > I assume you had to replace your oil pump when you broke the ears,
> > Cal?
>
> Au contraire, mon frere! Kludged a fix myself:
>
> http://pages.sbcglobal.net/calwheele.../img_1623.html
>

Nice job! How did you break the ears off, anyway? Since they go on the
outside of the case, it surprises me you managed to tear them off...

> >
> > Also, I am doing this conversion with the case still in the Jeep (I
> > didn't feel up to trying to remove the case from the drivetrain).
>
> I removed it, and it was a knuckle-busting pain and waste.
>

I looked under there and said "damn! no way I'm taking this thing
off!".

> >It
> > seems impossible to keep the silicone seal from dripping inside the
> > case, onto the drive chain.
>
> You're probably using too much. Just a 1/4" bead'll do ya, as long as
> it's continuous.
>

Ahh... I'm using some of the heavy-duty black junk, in a caulk-style
dispenser. I left a pretty good bead all the way around. I didn't
think I used too much, but if 1/4" will do, I might've used a bit too
much. That junk sucks. It took me 2 hours to clean it all (make
that...most of it all) off my hands and arms...and that only by using
a damn scotch-brite scouring sponge. Ouch! I wish there was some sort
of pre-fabbed gasket I could use instead of that junk!

> >Is this bad? Or can I just assume the
> > silicone will be obliterated by the chain's operation?
>
> Exactly. However, that chunk of silicone could end up blocking that
> black screen that filters the recirculating oil, so...

Ack! Don't want that to happen!

> > I would, of
> > course, intend to change the t-case fluid very soon after this mod is
> > complete...
>
> If you do, don't drain it from the bottom drain plug. Drain it from the
> hex detent spring plug, at the bottom! Don't lose that spring or detent
> pin, though!

I'm not sure what plug you are talking about. I'll have to look under
the jeep tonight and try to figure that one out.

> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> > [Ah well, I guess I'm not quite the nifty mechanic I thought I was!
> > This is really sucking, and I think I just now negated the cost
> > savings I was trying for by doing this labor myself. UGH!]
>
> Not necessarily. Dude! I feel your pain!

Thanks ;-) But if you really felt my pain, you'd be coming over here
and helping me put this stupid thing back together =D

I think I'll try again with a new pump (or fixed...whatever) before I
tow it to a shop and have them finish it for me. My friend helping me
won't like that idea, though; he was none too happy about the gooey
mess made by the RTV either.


Thanks for all your help and advice, man.

/Bob

How about I tack on one more question really quick. After the little
jolt that caused the oil pump to bust, I took everything back out,
including the chain and both shafts, to clean the RTV off of them.
That arm thing that goes to the shifter rail has a sort of "fork" that
goes around a ring that goes around the drive shaft. Is the ring
supposed to be connected to that "fork" in any way? I noticed it is
just sitting there, and will slide around freely in the fork, or pull
out of the fork to the side (away from the center of the case). I
can't pull it entirely free of the fork in that way, of course,
because the edge of the case stops it before it clears both "prongs"
of the "fork". I just want to make sure that is how it's supposed to
work. I'm all paranoid now since I accidentally forced something and
definitely broke at least one thing (the pump) in the process. Thanks!



> >
> > Cal Wheeler <cal@whee.ler> wrote in message news:<bn1hup$tqa$1@pita.alt.net>...
> >
> >>Bob, just make VERY SURE when you apply that silicone and close it up
> >>that your "oil pump" is PRECSELY positioned. I didn't, and busted the
> >>ears off the sucker. Had to wait for the silicone to harden, then take
> >>the whole thing off, fix it, and try again.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Bob wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You are correct. I am doing an Adv. Adapters SYE install, so I had to
> >>>split the case. After removing the case, and taking out the magnet
> >>>that sits at the bottom of the case next to the oil pump pickup line,
> >>>I was just having a clumsy moment while trying wipe the metal shavings
> >>>from the magnet, and dropped it on the garage floor. Shatter. Oh well.
> >>>I found one of the four wheel shops here (high country perf. 4x4) who
> >>>has some magnets of the right size.
> >>>
> >>>I tried the "old hard drive magnet" idea, btw. It had promise, and the
> >>>magnets were certainly strong enough (damn!), but they weren't the
> >>>right shape, and I just couldn't get them oriented in such a way as to
> >>>feel confident they wouldn't one day work their way loose, slip up
> >>>into the case, and instantly snap ahold of the front shaft's chain
> >>>gear, thereby blowing up my t-case.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks for all the suggestions. The use of a magnetic fill or drain
> >>>plug was a good one. By the time I got back to the house from my
> >>>search for the magnet and read the posts, though, it was too late (on
> >>>a sunday) to go searching for such a plug. This SYE install just looks
> >>>to be turning into a 4 day fiasco. ;-)
> >>>
> >>>/Bob
> >>>
> >>>"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message news:<JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-bOd3dt2QuMig@anon.none.net>...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>He split the case, apparently. The magnet sits in a slot below the
> >>>>drain plug. Any strong magnet that will fit and stay in place should
> >>>>work, but I have no idea where to get one other than from a rebuilder
> >>>>who happens to have a stack out of the blown cases.
> >>>>
> >>>>On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 21:54:48 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> >>>>wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I don't know what slot you are referring to nor have I ever seen a
> >>>>>washer magnet for a drain plug....
> >>>>>
> >>>>>I have seen drain plugs with round bar magnets stuck in the end, maybe
> >>>>>one of those might be around as an aftermarket part?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Just sticking a bar or round magnet on the head of the bolt will
> >>>>>magnetize the inside of the bolt. A dab of silicone would help it stay
> >>>>>put between changes.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Bob wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>Does it matter if the new magnet is the same size/shape exactly as the
> >>>>>>old one? I've been putting effort into finding a same-size, washer
> >>>>>>shaped, (with hole in the middle) magnet, as near identical to the one
> >>>>>>I broke as possible. Is this a pointless search? Can I just use any
> >>>>>>strong magnet that fits in the slot?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>/Bob
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:<L6zkb.17086$iq3.4520@okepread01>...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>Salvage a magnet from an old dead hard drive if you have one.
> >>>>>>>The stronger the better. Those are usually powerfull enough to
> >>>>>>>pinch your fingers so they will hold well.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>That magnet is just to collect metal from the original assembly
> >>>>>>>as the parts wear in. Usually it doesn't collect much more after
> >>>>>>>that.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>>Bob did pass the time by typing:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I am doing my slip-yoke eliminator conversion this weekend. While
> >>>>>>>>cleaning the magnet that goes in the bottom of the case, I
> >>>>>>>>accidentally dropped it (from less than a foot above the
> >>>>>>>>ground...these things are fragile!), and it shattered.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>I need a new magnet!
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>So, does anyone have some suggestions where I might find one (specific
> >>>>>>>>stores would be great; I live in the Denver, CO area) that will
> >>>>>>>>replace this washer-shaped magnet? Would any old magnet of the correct
> >>>>>>>>dimensions do? I really would like to get it today, if possible;
> >>>>>>>>however, I realize that may prove impossible, with it being Sunday.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Any and all suggestions are appreciated, whether the suggested
> >>>>>>>>location is open today or tomorrow.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>Thanks!

Bob

Well, an update:

I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
"oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
tonight! ;-)

/Bob

Bob

Well, an update:

I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
"oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
tonight! ;-)

/Bob

Bob

Well, an update:

I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
"oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
tonight! ;-)

/Bob

Mike Romain

Good luck.

Just a tip on the silicone. Read the directions 'carefully' and let it
'cure' the right length of time, usually 24 hours before adding fluid.
This will insure no leaks.

Some silicones require a slight skim over before assembly but most these
days say to assemble 'before' it skims over.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Well, an update:
>
> I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
> stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
> "oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
> the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
> in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
> work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
> instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
> I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
> did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
> have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
> tonight! ;-)
>
> /Bob

Mike Romain

Good luck.

Just a tip on the silicone. Read the directions 'carefully' and let it
'cure' the right length of time, usually 24 hours before adding fluid.
This will insure no leaks.

Some silicones require a slight skim over before assembly but most these
days say to assemble 'before' it skims over.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Well, an update:
>
> I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
> stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
> "oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
> the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
> in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
> work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
> instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
> I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
> did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
> have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
> tonight! ;-)
>
> /Bob

Mike Romain

Good luck.

Just a tip on the silicone. Read the directions 'carefully' and let it
'cure' the right length of time, usually 24 hours before adding fluid.
This will insure no leaks.

Some silicones require a slight skim over before assembly but most these
days say to assemble 'before' it skims over.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bob wrote:
>
> Well, an update:
>
> I haven't retried attaching the rear of the case yet; had some other
> stuff to take care of last night. I did go pick up a new oil pump (the
> "oil pump housing + gasket" was the correct item). I also talked to
> the guys at the shop, and they gave me some new silicone gasket maker
> in an aerosol-type "easy-cheese" style canister, and said that should
> work well for me, as well as an applicator tip and specific
> instructions on how much to use and how much is too much. So hopefully
> I won't have the same gooey mess when I re-attempt this tonight as I
> did night before last. I'm optimistic things will go as they should
> have the first time, now, so wish me luck for when I try again
> tonight! ;-)
>
> /Bob