Help! doing the 4.0 head swap on a 258!
#111
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"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10hkpkchlog5k92@corp.supernews.com...
> Spin the crank one full rotation.
>
> the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the crank
can
> be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition between
> exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the pushrods
> in if this were the case.
>
> Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily be
> different than on the 4.2.
4.0l rods are 1mm shorter, but that's not enough for my problem.
#112
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"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10hkpkchlog5k92@corp.supernews.com...
> Spin the crank one full rotation.
>
> the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the crank
can
> be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition between
> exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the pushrods
> in if this were the case.
>
> Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily be
> different than on the 4.2.
4.0l rods are 1mm shorter, but that's not enough for my problem.
#113
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"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10hkpkchlog5k92@corp.supernews.com...
> Spin the crank one full rotation.
>
> the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the crank
can
> be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition between
> exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the pushrods
> in if this were the case.
>
> Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily be
> different than on the 4.2.
4.0l rods are 1mm shorter, but that's not enough for my problem.
#114
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Posts: n/a
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Wow. That's a drag.
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
#115
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow. That's a drag.
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
#116
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow. That's a drag.
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
#117
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow. That's a drag.
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
Well that sounds more like you just plain got old worn out parts painted
up pretty.
Heads can only be 'rebuilt' so many times and then they are garbage.
Yours sound like it has passed over the point of usefulness.
Yours is obviously way out of spec and I can't see any 'improved'
performance happening out of a dead head.
The valve timing will not match up with the crank using different stroke
rods and lifters. You will 'really' have to watch the adjustment or the
first time you red line it accidentally or on purpose you will punch
valves through the pistons. Are you going to use the heavy double
spring setup to hold the valves from floating?
'I' personally would not use a head that has worn enough to need custom
lifters and rods.
Good luck!
Mike
Harris Family wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Not trying to be an ***. Just a bit frustrated by my situation. Sorry to
> take it out on you guys. I did check the rotor position and its where it
> should be. I've been over it a dozn times and the only explanation I can com
> up with is that I decked the block .010 last year during a rebuild, and the
> head is a reman. It probably has been surfaced as well as new valves and
> ground seats. Ground seats would raise the valve stems higher block decking
> and head machining would put the rocker bosses anywhere between .020 and god
> knows how much closer to the tops of the lifters. Add it all up and
> something has to change to compensate. I fugure its got to be the pushrods.
> I've read every article and thread I can mine off the internet and all
> except one says the rockers are interchangeable. All except another say the
> rods are interchangeable. The one exception says his situation was exactly
> like mine. As a side note I contacted the guy who had pushrod problems and
> he was told by HESCO, who he got his head from, to put washers under the
> rocker pivots to compensate for the difference. While it surely would be the
> cheapest fix, as he said it is pretty "Mickey Mouse". Not to mention the
> stress put on the rocker bosses. I guess I was looking more for someone to
> say "yep I had the same problem and this is what I had to do". Not that I
> don't appreciate the advice you guys throw out here, because I really do.
> You guys are my fifth shop manual, and I really appreciate it.
> Rich Harris
> 1986 (mostly) CJ7. Detroits F/R 4:10s, 33x12.50 BFG MT's, onepiece axles,
> revolver shackles, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler lift, Procomp MX6 shocks
> (way out perform RS900's BTW), Custom Swingout tirecarrier bumper, and
> more...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:411AC49D.4BB4DD1A@sympatico.ca...
> > You didn't seem to want to take our suggestion about opening the
> > distributor cap as a second opinion on TDC just to make sure seriously,
> > so forgive our double check advice.
> >
> > It really sounds like you are reading the exhaust/intake stroke instead
> > of the compression stroke all across.
> >
> > Something silly is wrong and putting strange lifters in isn't likely to
> > fix it.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Harris Family wrote:
> > >
> > > I know how to go to TDC. I just used #1 as an example. Give me an ounce
> of
> > > credit here guys. All cylinders are wrong. The head must have been
> > > resurfaced as well as the block. I went down to Crower this afternoon
> and
> > > they gave me an adjustable pushrod and a Mechanical lifter. I'm going
> that
> > > route. Unless you guys can give me a viable alternative.
> > > Rich Harris.
> > > PS I've rebuilt a bunch of engines but never had to resize pushrods for
> a
> > > hydraulic cam.....always a first time....I'm going back to GM small
> blocks
> > > where you can mechanically adjust.
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:411A67B3.83A0E781@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You use the 4.2 ones.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > CRWLR wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Spin the crank one full rotation.
> > > > >
> > > > > the crank goes around twice for every rotation of the cam, so the
> crank
> > > can
> > > > > be at the top on one rotation, and the valves are in transition
> between
> > > > > exhaust open and intake open. You would have troubles putting the
> > > pushrods
> > > > > in if this were the case.
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said that, the rockers and pushrods on the 4.0 could easily
> be
> > > > > different than on the 4.2.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:xLoSc.1431$aB1.1397@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > The distributor position is irrelevant in this case. The valves
> are
> > > open
> > > > > > because either the pushrods are too long or the rockers are of an
> > > > > incorrect
> > > > > > design for this head. I never removed the distributor during this
> > > whole
> > > > > > operation. All I did was pull the old head and bolt on the new.
> > > > > > "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:08mSc.11877$Nl1.1300@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> > > > > > > Maybe a dumb question but have you checked the position of the
> > > > > distributor
> > > > > > > rotor for pointing to #1 cylinder? If not try turning the crank
> 360
> > > > > > degrees.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > JoBo
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Harris Family" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:gJeSc.3870$Qa4.538@twister.socal.rr.com...
> > > > > > > > Folks, I'm in a pickle!
> > > > > > > > Hope you can help me. I'm in the process of doing the head
> swap on
> > > my
> > > > > > '86
> > > > > > > > CJ7. Got the head installed no problem. Here's my catch, when
> I
> > > went
> > > > > to
> > > > > > put
> > > > > > > > the 258 stock rockers and pushrods back in, my valves were
> opened
> > > on
> > > > > #1
> > > > > > cyl
> > > > > > > > when its at TDC. AS we all know this is not good for
> compression.
> > > > > > Apparently
> > > > > > > > either my pushrods are too long or something in the rockers is
> > > amiss.
> > > > > > Got
> > > > > > > > any ideas? Should I be using 4.0l rockers, pivot assemblies,
> and
> > > > > > pushrods
> > > > > > > > instead of the old 258 engine parts?
> > > > > > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > > > > > > Rich Harris
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
#118
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When the valves hit the piston you better be 200% sure to check the
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>
#119
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When the valves hit the piston you better be 200% sure to check the
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>
#120
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Default](https://www.jeepscanada.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When the valves hit the piston you better be 200% sure to check the
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>
timing so a simple "no" doesnt fix it
Also, there are thicker metal headgaskets for sale that might work with
the shortest pushrods. A friend of mine used them on his chevy engine to
avoid using race gasoline. not the best fix but it might work for now.
Johan
Harris Family wrote:
> no
>
> "JohanB" <johanberkhoff.spam@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:TGBSc.18757$cK.12329@newsread2.news.pas.earth link.net...
>
>>
>>Harris Family wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Quite simply, Pull the spark plug from #1 and feel the air rush out as
>
> you
>
>>>turn the crank to the 0degree mark. The air rush is the compression
>
> stroke
>
>>>bringing you to TDC.
>>>
>>
>>This only works when the cam timing is correct.....and isnt that what
>>were trying to find out ????
>
>
>