Evan (ebmvi@aol.comxxx) wrote on Saturday 28 February 2004 01:58 pm:

> Help Changing break hose?
>
> I cant get the Break hoses to break free from the line. By this, The
> Lines
> come form the Master Cylinder, and then the hose goes to the Caliper.
> They join at an inline connection, I cant get them apart.
>
> 83 Scrambler w/ wide track
>
> I got the tab, out, and Soaked it all with PB-Blaster, But I cant get them
> to break loose, don't want to strip.
>
> Any one know what size wrench? Nothing seems to fit right. And how doses
> it
> come loose? Doses the line screw into the hose? Or do they both screw
> into the a third piece?
>
> My Chilton is of no help, it just says to do it, doses not mention threads
> or what screws into what.
>
> I don't want to have to get this thing towed just to change the break
> lines.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

Evan,

My 82 CJ-8 had the same problem. I ended up taking a propane torch to the
connector along with a pair of vise-grips. The first time I did it, I
forgot to open up the bleed valve and the rubber line blew up in my face
due the the pressure built up by the higher temperature (PV=nRT) (always
wear safety goggles :). But the brake fluid doesn't burn very well, so I
didn't worry about fires. Both sides broke free. I thoroughly bled the
system after that.

I'm not recommending you do or not do this, it's just how I did it.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Evan (ebmvi@aol.comxxx) wrote on Saturday 28 February 2004 01:58 pm:

> Help Changing break hose?
>
> I cant get the Break hoses to break free from the line. By this, The
> Lines
> come form the Master Cylinder, and then the hose goes to the Caliper.
> They join at an inline connection, I cant get them apart.
>
> 83 Scrambler w/ wide track
>
> I got the tab, out, and Soaked it all with PB-Blaster, But I cant get them
> to break loose, don't want to strip.
>
> Any one know what size wrench? Nothing seems to fit right. And how doses
> it
> come loose? Doses the line screw into the hose? Or do they both screw
> into the a third piece?
>
> My Chilton is of no help, it just says to do it, doses not mention threads
> or what screws into what.
>
> I don't want to have to get this thing towed just to change the break
> lines.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

Evan,

My 82 CJ-8 had the same problem. I ended up taking a propane torch to the
connector along with a pair of vise-grips. The first time I did it, I
forgot to open up the bleed valve and the rubber line blew up in my face
due the the pressure built up by the higher temperature (PV=nRT) (always
wear safety goggles :). But the brake fluid doesn't burn very well, so I
didn't worry about fires. Both sides broke free. I thoroughly bled the
system after that.

I'm not recommending you do or not do this, it's just how I did it.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Evan (ebmvi@aol.comxxx) wrote on Saturday 28 February 2004 01:58 pm:

> Help Changing break hose?
>
> I cant get the Break hoses to break free from the line. By this, The
> Lines
> come form the Master Cylinder, and then the hose goes to the Caliper.
> They join at an inline connection, I cant get them apart.
>
> 83 Scrambler w/ wide track
>
> I got the tab, out, and Soaked it all with PB-Blaster, But I cant get them
> to break loose, don't want to strip.
>
> Any one know what size wrench? Nothing seems to fit right. And how doses
> it
> come loose? Doses the line screw into the hose? Or do they both screw
> into the a third piece?
>
> My Chilton is of no help, it just says to do it, doses not mention threads
> or what screws into what.
>
> I don't want to have to get this thing towed just to change the break
> lines.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

Evan,

My 82 CJ-8 had the same problem. I ended up taking a propane torch to the
connector along with a pair of vise-grips. The first time I did it, I
forgot to open up the bleed valve and the rubber line blew up in my face
due the the pressure built up by the higher temperature (PV=nRT) (always
wear safety goggles :). But the brake fluid doesn't burn very well, so I
didn't worry about fires. Both sides broke free. I thoroughly bled the
system after that.

I'm not recommending you do or not do this, it's just how I did it.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer, 1891

 

Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
it, so that may do the trick, if not,

From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
best to run all new lines?

Thanks again.



83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

 

Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
it, so that may do the trick, if not,

From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
best to run all new lines?

Thanks again.



83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

 

Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
it, so that may do the trick, if not,

From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
best to run all new lines?

Thanks again.



83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

 

When I do work on my CJ, I go with a new line and a new caliper even if
the bleeder won't go.

Now I have all new lines under her.

I live in Canada in the salt belt so very few old brake lines are in any
shape to remove. It is usually replace time.

That is why brake jobs can get so damn expensive!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
> should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
> it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
> it, so that may do the trick, if not,
>
> From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
> best to run all new lines?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

 

When I do work on my CJ, I go with a new line and a new caliper even if
the bleeder won't go.

Now I have all new lines under her.

I live in Canada in the salt belt so very few old brake lines are in any
shape to remove. It is usually replace time.

That is why brake jobs can get so damn expensive!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
> should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
> it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
> it, so that may do the trick, if not,
>
> From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
> best to run all new lines?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me

 

When I do work on my CJ, I go with a new line and a new caliper even if
the bleeder won't go.

Now I have all new lines under her.

I live in Canada in the salt belt so very few old brake lines are in any
shape to remove. It is usually replace time.

That is why brake jobs can get so damn expensive!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Evan wrote:
>
> Thanks guys, I quit while I was ahead, before I striped it all out so there
> should be plenty left for vice grips. I have it soaking in PB-blaster, and now
> it's raining so looks like it will soak for a few day before I can get back to
> it, so that may do the trick, if not,
>
> From what you have told me is it "best" to cut and re-fit the end? or is it
> best to run all new lines?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me