Mike Romain

Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.

I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality photos on one
1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!

Question!

Does your engine burn oil?

-----------------

Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need to be
changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil leaking down
the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing back has
caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but bet I am
right.

I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to the
dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock mounts have
lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket engine
mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended OEM
mounts for me.

Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3" I think
and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle shims.
No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and I have
the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.

Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched to 2.5"
with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and they are
rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air pressure in my
tires....

Steering....

Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to be
repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing or mud
running, I do mine twice a season.

If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering will
wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top and
bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings need
servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake pad change
if in normal duty.

A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the vehicle on
the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out hard! Get
the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks or
shuffles.

Why do you think you need a new clutch?

The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve cover
turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up rebuild.

Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?

The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at the top,
then the clutch should grab about halfway along.

If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs at the
very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.

If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment is for
3/4" of free play up top.

With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act very
strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad on take
off, bitch and generally not act nice.

If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if you don't
mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top so I like
to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for an
engine hoist anchor too. :-)

I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a couple weeks
ago. There is a post/thread about it here.

He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the skid plate
and tranny from the bottom.

I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms. Unless
there is more you haven't said?

Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on perfectly
clean eh!

My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The engine
head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!

Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks because I
made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it cure!!!

The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or go near it
for the 24 hours.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

brad smith wrote:
>
> Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
>
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
>
> I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
> buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
>
> Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
> I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
> 7-10 years that's no problem.
>
> I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
> and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
> help me out! :)
>
> I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
> bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
> where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
> know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
> is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
> without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
>
> Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
>
> Brad.

Mike Romain

Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.

I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality photos on one
1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!

Question!

Does your engine burn oil?

-----------------

Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need to be
changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil leaking down
the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing back has
caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but bet I am
right.

I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to the
dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock mounts have
lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket engine
mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended OEM
mounts for me.

Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3" I think
and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle shims.
No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and I have
the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.

Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched to 2.5"
with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and they are
rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air pressure in my
tires....

Steering....

Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to be
repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing or mud
running, I do mine twice a season.

If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering will
wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top and
bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings need
servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake pad change
if in normal duty.

A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the vehicle on
the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out hard! Get
the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks or
shuffles.

Why do you think you need a new clutch?

The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve cover
turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up rebuild.

Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?

The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at the top,
then the clutch should grab about halfway along.

If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs at the
very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.

If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment is for
3/4" of free play up top.

With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act very
strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad on take
off, bitch and generally not act nice.

If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if you don't
mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top so I like
to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for an
engine hoist anchor too. :-)

I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a couple weeks
ago. There is a post/thread about it here.

He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the skid plate
and tranny from the bottom.

I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms. Unless
there is more you haven't said?

Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on perfectly
clean eh!

My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The engine
head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!

Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks because I
made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it cure!!!

The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or go near it
for the 24 hours.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

brad smith wrote:
>
> Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
>
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
>
> I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
> buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
>
> Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
> I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
> 7-10 years that's no problem.
>
> I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
> and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
> help me out! :)
>
> I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
> bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
> where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
> know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
> is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
> without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
>
> Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
>
> Brad.

brad smith

yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
from what I have seen.

(sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
internet connection :)

brad.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
>
> I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
photos on one
> 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
>
> Question!
>
> Does your engine burn oil?
>
> -----------------
>
> Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
to be
> changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
leaking down
> the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
back has
> caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
bet I am
> right.
>
> I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
the
> dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
mounts have
> lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
engine
> mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
OEM
> mounts for me.
>
> Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
I think
> and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
shims.
> No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
I have
> the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
>
> Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
to 2.5"
> with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
they are
> rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
pressure in my
> tires....
>
> Steering....
>
> Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
be
> repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
or mud
> running, I do mine twice a season.
>
> If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
will
> wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
and
> bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
need
> servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
pad change
> if in normal duty.
>
> A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
vehicle on
> the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
hard! Get
> the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
or
> shuffles.
>
> Why do you think you need a new clutch?
>
> The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
cover
> turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
rebuild.
>
> Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
>
> The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
the top,
> then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
>
> If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
at the
> very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
>
> If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
is for
> 3/4" of free play up top.
>
> With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
very
> strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
on take
> off, bitch and generally not act nice.
>
> If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
you don't
> mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
so I like
> to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
an
> engine hoist anchor too. :-)
>
> I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
couple weeks
> ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
>
> He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
skid plate
> and tranny from the bottom.
>
> I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
Unless
> there is more you haven't said?
>
> Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
perfectly
> clean eh!
>
> My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
engine
> head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
>
> Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
because I
> made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
cure!!!
>
> The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
go near it
> for the 24 hours.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> brad smith wrote:
> >
> > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> >
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> >
> > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
of
> > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> >
> > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
mounts?
> > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
in
> > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> >
> > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
front
> > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
would
> > help me out! :)
> >
> > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
the
> > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
see
> > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
1/4". I
> > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
boot- it
> > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
clutch
> > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> >
> > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
spring.
> >
> > Brad.

brad smith

yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
from what I have seen.

(sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
internet connection :)

brad.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
>
> I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
photos on one
> 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
>
> Question!
>
> Does your engine burn oil?
>
> -----------------
>
> Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
to be
> changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
leaking down
> the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
back has
> caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
bet I am
> right.
>
> I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
the
> dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
mounts have
> lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
engine
> mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
OEM
> mounts for me.
>
> Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
I think
> and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
shims.
> No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
I have
> the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
>
> Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
to 2.5"
> with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
they are
> rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
pressure in my
> tires....
>
> Steering....
>
> Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
be
> repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
or mud
> running, I do mine twice a season.
>
> If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
will
> wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
and
> bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
need
> servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
pad change
> if in normal duty.
>
> A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
vehicle on
> the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
hard! Get
> the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
or
> shuffles.
>
> Why do you think you need a new clutch?
>
> The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
cover
> turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
rebuild.
>
> Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
>
> The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
the top,
> then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
>
> If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
at the
> very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
>
> If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
is for
> 3/4" of free play up top.
>
> With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
very
> strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
on take
> off, bitch and generally not act nice.
>
> If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
you don't
> mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
so I like
> to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
an
> engine hoist anchor too. :-)
>
> I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
couple weeks
> ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
>
> He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
skid plate
> and tranny from the bottom.
>
> I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
Unless
> there is more you haven't said?
>
> Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
perfectly
> clean eh!
>
> My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
engine
> head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
>
> Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
because I
> made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
cure!!!
>
> The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
go near it
> for the 24 hours.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> brad smith wrote:
> >
> > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> >
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> >
> > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
of
> > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> >
> > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
mounts?
> > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
in
> > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> >
> > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
front
> > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
would
> > help me out! :)
> >
> > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
the
> > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
see
> > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
1/4". I
> > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
boot- it
> > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
clutch
> > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> >
> > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
spring.
> >
> > Brad.

brad smith

yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
from what I have seen.

(sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
internet connection :)

brad.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
>
> I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
photos on one
> 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
>
> Question!
>
> Does your engine burn oil?
>
> -----------------
>
> Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
to be
> changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
leaking down
> the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
back has
> caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
bet I am
> right.
>
> I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
the
> dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
mounts have
> lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
engine
> mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
OEM
> mounts for me.
>
> Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
I think
> and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
shims.
> No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
I have
> the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
>
> Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
to 2.5"
> with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
they are
> rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
pressure in my
> tires....
>
> Steering....
>
> Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
be
> repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
or mud
> running, I do mine twice a season.
>
> If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
will
> wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
and
> bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
need
> servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
pad change
> if in normal duty.
>
> A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
vehicle on
> the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
hard! Get
> the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
or
> shuffles.
>
> Why do you think you need a new clutch?
>
> The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
cover
> turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
rebuild.
>
> Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
>
> The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
the top,
> then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
>
> If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
at the
> very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
>
> If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
is for
> 3/4" of free play up top.
>
> With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
very
> strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
on take
> off, bitch and generally not act nice.
>
> If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
you don't
> mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
so I like
> to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
an
> engine hoist anchor too. :-)
>
> I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
couple weeks
> ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
>
> He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
skid plate
> and tranny from the bottom.
>
> I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
Unless
> there is more you haven't said?
>
> Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
perfectly
> clean eh!
>
> My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
engine
> head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
>
> Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
because I
> made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
cure!!!
>
> The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
go near it
> for the 24 hours.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> brad smith wrote:
> >
> > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> >
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> >
> > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
of
> > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> >
> > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
mounts?
> > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
in
> > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> >
> > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
front
> > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
would
> > help me out! :)
> >
> > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
the
> > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
see
> > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
1/4". I
> > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
boot- it
> > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
clutch
> > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> >
> > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
spring.
> >
> > Brad.

Mike Romain

I would just go for the valve cover leak and see what happens. Most
likely the bottom ones will go away, if not then you might think on a
rear seal.
It can be done with the engine in place. It is a two piece seal.

Mike

brad smith wrote:
>
> yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
> from what I have seen.
>
> (sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
> internet connection :)
>
> brad.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> > Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
> >
> > I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
> photos on one
> > 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
> >
> > Question!
> >
> > Does your engine burn oil?
> >
> > -----------------
> >
> > Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
> to be
> > changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
> leaking down
> > the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
> back has
> > caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
> bet I am
> > right.
> >
> > I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
> the
> > dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
> mounts have
> > lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
> engine
> > mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
> OEM
> > mounts for me.
> >
> > Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
> I think
> > and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
> shims.
> > No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
> I have
> > the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
> >
> > Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
> to 2.5"
> > with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
> they are
> > rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
> pressure in my
> > tires....
> >
> > Steering....
> >
> > Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
> be
> > repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
> or mud
> > running, I do mine twice a season.
> >
> > If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
> will
> > wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
> and
> > bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
> need
> > servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
> pad change
> > if in normal duty.
> >
> > A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
> vehicle on
> > the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
> hard! Get
> > the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
> or
> > shuffles.
> >
> > Why do you think you need a new clutch?
> >
> > The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
> cover
> > turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
> rebuild.
> >
> > Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
> >
> > The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
> the top,
> > then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
> >
> > If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
> at the
> > very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
> >
> > If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
> is for
> > 3/4" of free play up top.
> >
> > With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
> very
> > strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
> on take
> > off, bitch and generally not act nice.
> >
> > If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
> you don't
> > mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
> so I like
> > to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
> an
> > engine hoist anchor too. :-)
> >
> > I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
> couple weeks
> > ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
> >
> > He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
> skid plate
> > and tranny from the bottom.
> >
> > I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
> Unless
> > there is more you haven't said?
> >
> > Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
> perfectly
> > clean eh!
> >
> > My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
> engine
> > head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
> >
> > Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
> because I
> > made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
> cure!!!
> >
> > The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
> go near it
> > for the 24 hours.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> > >
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> > >
> > > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
> of
> > > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> > >
> > > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
> mounts?
> > > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
> in
> > > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> > >
> > > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
> front
> > > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
> would
> > > help me out! :)
> > >
> > > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
> the
> > > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
> see
> > > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
> 1/4". I
> > > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
> boot- it
> > > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
> clutch
> > > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> > >
> > > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
> spring.
> > >
> > > Brad.

Mike Romain

I would just go for the valve cover leak and see what happens. Most
likely the bottom ones will go away, if not then you might think on a
rear seal.
It can be done with the engine in place. It is a two piece seal.

Mike

brad smith wrote:
>
> yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
> from what I have seen.
>
> (sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
> internet connection :)
>
> brad.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> > Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
> >
> > I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
> photos on one
> > 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
> >
> > Question!
> >
> > Does your engine burn oil?
> >
> > -----------------
> >
> > Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
> to be
> > changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
> leaking down
> > the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
> back has
> > caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
> bet I am
> > right.
> >
> > I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
> the
> > dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
> mounts have
> > lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
> engine
> > mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
> OEM
> > mounts for me.
> >
> > Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
> I think
> > and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
> shims.
> > No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
> I have
> > the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
> >
> > Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
> to 2.5"
> > with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
> they are
> > rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
> pressure in my
> > tires....
> >
> > Steering....
> >
> > Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
> be
> > repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
> or mud
> > running, I do mine twice a season.
> >
> > If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
> will
> > wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
> and
> > bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
> need
> > servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
> pad change
> > if in normal duty.
> >
> > A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
> vehicle on
> > the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
> hard! Get
> > the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
> or
> > shuffles.
> >
> > Why do you think you need a new clutch?
> >
> > The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
> cover
> > turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
> rebuild.
> >
> > Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
> >
> > The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
> the top,
> > then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
> >
> > If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
> at the
> > very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
> >
> > If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
> is for
> > 3/4" of free play up top.
> >
> > With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
> very
> > strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
> on take
> > off, bitch and generally not act nice.
> >
> > If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
> you don't
> > mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
> so I like
> > to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
> an
> > engine hoist anchor too. :-)
> >
> > I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
> couple weeks
> > ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
> >
> > He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
> skid plate
> > and tranny from the bottom.
> >
> > I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
> Unless
> > there is more you haven't said?
> >
> > Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
> perfectly
> > clean eh!
> >
> > My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
> engine
> > head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
> >
> > Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
> because I
> > made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
> cure!!!
> >
> > The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
> go near it
> > for the 24 hours.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> > >
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> > >
> > > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
> of
> > > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> > >
> > > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
> mounts?
> > > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
> in
> > > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> > >
> > > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
> front
> > > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
> would
> > > help me out! :)
> > >
> > > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
> the
> > > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
> see
> > > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
> 1/4". I
> > > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
> boot- it
> > > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
> clutch
> > > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> > >
> > > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
> spring.
> > >
> > > Brad.

Mike Romain

I would just go for the valve cover leak and see what happens. Most
likely the bottom ones will go away, if not then you might think on a
rear seal.
It can be done with the engine in place. It is a two piece seal.

Mike

brad smith wrote:
>
> yes, I usually have to put about a quart in every 1500 miles,
> from what I have seen.
>
> (sorry about the picture size, I am spoiled with my high speed
> internet connection :)
>
> brad.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4021673A.1CAD3500@sympatico.ca...
> > Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
> >
> > I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality
> photos on one
> > 1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
> >
> > Question!
> >
> > Does your engine burn oil?
> >
> > -----------------
> >
> > Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need
> to be
> > changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil
> leaking down
> > the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing
> back has
> > caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but
> bet I am
> > right.
> >
> > I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to
> the
> > dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock
> mounts have
> > lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket
> engine
> > mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended
> OEM
> > mounts for me.
> >
> > Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3"
> I think
> > and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle
> shims.
> > No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and
> I have
> > the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
> >
> > Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched
> to 2.5"
> > with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and
> they are
> > rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air
> pressure in my
> > tires....
> >
> > Steering....
> >
> > Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to
> be
> > repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing
> or mud
> > running, I do mine twice a season.
> >
> > If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering
> will
> > wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top
> and
> > bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings
> need
> > servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake
> pad change
> > if in normal duty.
> >
> > A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the
> vehicle on
> > the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out
> hard! Get
> > the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks
> or
> > shuffles.
> >
> > Why do you think you need a new clutch?
> >
> > The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve
> cover
> > turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up
> rebuild.
> >
> > Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
> >
> > The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at
> the top,
> > then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
> >
> > If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs
> at the
> > very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
> >
> > If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment
> is for
> > 3/4" of free play up top.
> >
> > With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act
> very
> > strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad
> on take
> > off, bitch and generally not act nice.
> >
> > If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if
> you don't
> > mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top
> so I like
> > to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for
> an
> > engine hoist anchor too. :-)
> >
> > I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a
> couple weeks
> > ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
> >
> > He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the
> skid plate
> > and tranny from the bottom.
> >
> > I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms.
> Unless
> > there is more you haven't said?
> >
> > Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on
> perfectly
> > clean eh!
> >
> > My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The
> engine
> > head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
> >
> > Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks
> because I
> > made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it
> cure!!!
> >
> > The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or
> go near it
> > for the 24 hours.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
> > >
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> > > http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
> > >
> > > I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit
> of
> > > buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
> > >
> > > Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny
> mounts?
> > > I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> > > cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them
> in
> > > 7-10 years that's no problem.
> > >
> > > I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> > > causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the
> front
> > > and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup
> would
> > > help me out! :)
> > >
> > > I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on
> the
> > > bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can
> see
> > > where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to
> 1/4". I
> > > know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork
> boot- it
> > > is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the
> clutch
> > > without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> > > tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
> > >
> > > Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> > > valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this
> spring.
> > >
> > > Brad.