help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
02-04-2004, 12:57 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Ok.....
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
02-04-2004, 12:57 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Ok.....
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
02-04-2004, 12:57 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Ok.....
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
Well the photo shows a leaky valve cover.
These are difficult to seal up. If you take it off to change the gasket
you must have it perfectly clean or it will leak. Even one fingerprint
is enough to leak.
I use acetone or coleman camp fuel to clean it, then use a thin coat of
RTV silicon on both sides with a cork gasket between. Over 2 years and
still no leaks.
This leaky valve cover is also causing the drip near the rear main seal
in 99% of the cases so fix that first.
It also could be the source of the oil on the bottom of the tranny. Oil
will ------ back from wind.
Second you have a broken tranny mount and maybe a broke engine mount
too.
These are easy to change and should be fixed ASAP before the engine up
and falls out on you... Been there, done that, it wasn't fun...
Because the engine isn't sitting straight, you likely have damaged some
u-joints in the front driveshaft that will cause it to shudder in 4x4,
but until you fix the mounts it is a guess.
Why do you have shims on your axles????
Tell me about that so I can have a proper guess to your steering issues.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
02-04-2004, 02:34 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
02-04-2004, 02:34 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
02-04-2004, 02:34 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
7-10 years that's no problem.
I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
help me out! :)
I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
Brad.
02-04-2004, 04:26 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
#3 Steering
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
02-04-2004, 04:26 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
#3 Steering
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
02-04-2004, 04:26 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
#3 Steering
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
Have a buddy crank the wheel back and forth while you have a good look at
the brace that connects the steering box to the frame. They are a common
place of failure, they crack around the bolt holes of the brace. And while
he is cranking left and right look for any other loose parts. Anything that
is loose will just add up to the big picture, and anything you fix will
subtract from the loose feeling.
"brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
news:ctZTb.25828$M81.10676@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Well guys, let me lay the groundwork first so you get an idea
> what I am working with here:
>
> '81 CJ-7 with an older Rancho 2.5" lift (with the super hard
> springs)
> 258 all original engine (no rebuilds, and I think 93k miles) with
> some upgrades (intake, headers, carb.)
> SR-4 transmission
> Dana 300
> All New brakes (9/03) (except for master cylinder, booster, and
> hard-lines)
> New 31" tires and wheels
> New steering column and lower steering column (10/03)
>
> with that out of the way, I have these three general areas of
> concern:
>
> 1) Engine has always leaked oil from a couple places, near the
> bell housing (rear main seal I think) and also the bottom of the
> transmission always has a coating of oil on it. there is also a
> very good coating on the valves ( [
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/27.jpg ] I was able to see when I
> replaced the headers) Anyway, I have oil in the cylinders
> coating the valves and really coating the spark plugs. This
> question is easy, is there anything I can do about the leaking
> oil besides a rebuild? What about the oil on the transmission?
>
> 2) Quite a bit of vibration when in 4wd. Also when I first start
> out from a stop in 2wd, the transfer case shifter actually will
> shake side to side and hit the body tub. The vibration is
> multiplied when in 4wd and shakes the whole transmission and
> transfer case side to side so that I have to really grip the
> shifter to hold on. Sounds like engine/transmission mounts
> maybe... (all brushings/mounts are original and rotting) maybe
> something else though?
>
> 3) Steering - this is my daily driver and I have really worked
> hard to fix this. It looks like the power steering box might
> have a little bit of play. I have a lot of over steer and it
> acts like there is not enough caster - even though there are
> shims on the axle. Any suggestions would be a great help.
>
> Thanks so much for looking and helping if possible. This is my
> first jeep and I am loving every minute of it (even when under
> the hood!)
>
> Brad.
>
>
02-04-2004, 04:42 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: help with 81 cj-7 - engine, vibration, steering wander/over steer
Man you really need to trim the size down on those photos.
I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality photos on one
1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
Question!
Does your engine burn oil?
-----------------
Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need to be
changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil leaking down
the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing back has
caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but bet I am
right.
I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to the
dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock mounts have
lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket engine
mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended OEM
mounts for me.
Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3" I think
and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle shims.
No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and I have
the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched to 2.5"
with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and they are
rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air pressure in my
tires....
Steering....
Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to be
repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing or mud
running, I do mine twice a season.
If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering will
wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top and
bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings need
servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake pad change
if in normal duty.
A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the vehicle on
the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out hard! Get
the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks or
shuffles.
Why do you think you need a new clutch?
The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve cover
turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up rebuild.
Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at the top,
then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs at the
very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment is for
3/4" of free play up top.
With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act very
strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad on take
off, bitch and generally not act nice.
If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if you don't
mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top so I like
to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for an
engine hoist anchor too. :-)
I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a couple weeks
ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the skid plate
and tranny from the bottom.
I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms. Unless
there is more you haven't said?
Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on perfectly
clean eh!
My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The engine
head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks because I
made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it cure!!!
The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or go near it
for the 24 hours.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
>
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
>
> I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
> buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
>
> Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
> I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
> 7-10 years that's no problem.
>
> I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
> and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
> help me out! :)
>
> I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
> bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
> where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
> know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
> is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
> without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
>
> Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
>
> Brad.
I have a Sony digital Mavica and I can put 15 high quality photos on one
1.44 floppy disk. Some of your shots are 2000K !!!!
Question!
Does your engine burn oil?
-----------------
Your mounts are sponge rubber looking, fractured bad and need to be
changed. The tranny mount is broken because all the oil leaking down
the back of the engine from the valve cover and then blowing back has
caused the rubber to disintegrate. Just an educated guess, but bet I am
right.
I would recommend rubber mounts and I would recommend you go to the
dealer for them. Ya I know, the '$tealer', but the stock mounts have
lasted this long, so.... I have torn 3 sets of aftermarket engine
mounts apart in 3 years and my local Jeep shop also recommended OEM
mounts for me.
Do you have oversized shackles on the springs? CJ ones are 3" I think
and YJ ones are 4" I think. Long shackles make a need for axle shims.
No way a 2.5" spring lift needs shims. That is what I have and I have
the YJ shackles that give an extra 1/2" lift.
Oh, CJ's have rock hard springs. I have new OEM springs arched to 2.5"
with the top leaf replaced with a tempered 'keeper' spring and they are
rock hard. The only soft bit I get is from the right air pressure in my
tires....
Steering....
Wheel bearings are a sneaky thing in the front. They need to be
repacked and retorqued on a regular basis. When water crossing or mud
running, I do mine twice a season.
If the wheel bearings are the slightest loose, the steering will
wander. To test them, jack it up and grab the tire at the top and
bottom and pull in and out. If you have play, the bearings need
servicing. They normally should be repacked with every brake pad change
if in normal duty.
A bad ball joint also can cause wander. To test, with the vehicle on
the ground, grab the top of the tire and pull it in and out hard! Get
the Jeep really rocking side to side and then feel for clunks or
shuffles.
Why do you think you need a new clutch?
The boot is real rubber and the oil leaking down from the valve cover
turns it to jelly. Mine was in shreds when I did my frame up rebuild.
Where does the clutch engage on the pedal?
The pedal should have about 3/4" of free, flop around play at the top,
then the clutch should grab about halfway along.
If yours sounds like that it is working perfect. If it grabs at the
very top and you have the top free play, it is worn out.
If no top free play, it needs adjusting. The 'book' adjustment is for
3/4" of free play up top.
With blown tranny and soft engine mounts, the clutch will act very
strange and sometimes grab up top, down low, grind, shudder bad on take
off, bitch and generally not act nice.
If you need a clutch, they are easy to do from the bottom if you don't
mind working under. I am tall and prefer to work from the top so I like
to pull the engine. Have a sweet big tree over my driveway for an
engine hoist anchor too. :-)
I just helped a guy do his in my driveway at -25C temps a couple weeks
ago. There is a post/thread about it here.
He is short and prefers working on his back so he dropped the skid plate
and tranny from the bottom.
I do not think you need to worry about that from your symptoms. Unless
there is more you haven't said?
Oh, the aluminum valve covers leak just as bad if not put on perfectly
clean eh!
My plastic one only has the two nuts up top holding it on! The engine
head isn't drilled and tapped for the side bolts!!!!
Still with only the two nuts and the plastic cover, no leaks because I
made it perfectly clean before setting the RTV in and let it cure!!!
The RTV also takes 24 hours to 'cure' so you don't add oil or go near it
for the 24 hours.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
brad smith wrote:
>
> Here are some more pictures (better than 1,000 words!)
>
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/intake_valve_number_1.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/passan...gine_mount.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/shim.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/up_sho...ellhousing.jpg
> http://home.kc.rr.com/jeepcj7/steering_linkage.jpg
>
> I know the valve cover is leaking but I also have quite a bit of
> buildup on my actual valves. see picture to get an idea.
>
> Should I go with the urethane or rubber engine and tranny mounts?
> I don't mind going with rubber because I know that it would
> cushion the engine/tranny more and if I have to replace them in
> 7-10 years that's no problem.
>
> I just realized that the shim on top of the spring pack is
> causing me to have less caster, rotating my axle toward the front
> and causing less stable steering. I knew this newsgroup would
> help me out! :)
>
> I have tried to capture what the oil I was talking about on the
> bottom of the bellhousing/transmission looks like. you can see
> where the inspection plate is pulled away about 3/16" to 1/4". I
> know I need to get a new clutch (look at the clutch fork boot- it
> is totally destroyed.) My question is can I replace the clutch
> without pulling the engine - it looks like I could drop the
> tranny/transfer case and get to it that way...
>
> Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I am going to replace my
> valve cover with an aluminum model when it warms up this spring.
>
> Brad.