Help!!!!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Thanks again Mike.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Thanks again Mike.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Thanks again Mike.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
Mike Romain wrote:
> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>
> Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>
> The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> of running out of gas and really lean.
>
> When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> opened the gas cap.
>
> Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > could this still apply?
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > >
> > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > >
> > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > twist and lift out.
> > >
> > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > >
> > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
idle only.
Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
adjust as I go.
A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
vacuum.
If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
valve is dead.
Mike
jd wrote:
>
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
> > > > > it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Suspect of water still in the fuel chain somewhere? Can usually be
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Suspect of water still in the fuel chain somewhere? Can usually be
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
Suspect of water still in the fuel chain somewhere? Can usually be
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is
bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl
works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP
willing to help mix up a special batch?
How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up
everything with truly stubborn deposits?
I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used
for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help
isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly
to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the
> high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the
> idle only.
>
> Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4
> turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it
> starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm
> usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I
> adjust as I go.
>
> A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve.
> It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed.
> The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the
> CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR
> vacuum.
>
> If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that
> can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the
> back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid
> thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister
> closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's
> valve is dead.
>
> Mike
>
> jd wrote:
>
>>Thanks again Mike.
>>
>>None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>>
>>The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
>>in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
>>running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
>>a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
>>to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>>
>>Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
>>as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
>>>possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
>>>
>>>Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
>>>vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
>>>
>>>The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
>>>it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
>>>of running out of gas and really lean.
>>>
>>>When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
>>>opened the gas cap.
>>>
>>>Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>jd wrote:
>>>
>>>>Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
>>>>could this still apply?
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
>>>>>
>>>>>A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.
>>>>>
>>>>>Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to
>>>>>be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing
>>>>>the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will
>>>>>twist and lift out.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
>>>>>
>>>>>One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque.
>>>>>To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the
>>>>>engine stumbles you have a leak.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in
>>>>>>the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started
>>>>>>diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
>>>>>>filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and
>>>>>>3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a
>>>>>>time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how
>>>>>>it ran.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help!!!!
If you had water in the tank you probably had it in the carburetor too.
Carbs are made out of really cheap metal that turns into insoluble white
salt on contact with water. I am thinking that you need to get a carburetor
kit and completely disassemble and clean everything. If you do that, then
you at least eliminate the carburetor as a source of the problem.
When you had the tank out, how exactly did you get the water out of it? I
like to leave them in the hot sun for a day or two, so it is really "dry as
a bone" in there. This time of year, that may not be so practical, but the
inside of that tank has to be dry.
With water in the tank, it could also be in the canister and other parts of
the fuel system.
Earle
"jd" <jd04@centurytel.net> wrote in message
news:1166890299.219073.60730@73g2000cwn.googlegrou ps.com...
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them
wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually
need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without
removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi
will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a
retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If
the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had
water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough
started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean
and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire
at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect
on how
> > > > > it ran.
>
Carbs are made out of really cheap metal that turns into insoluble white
salt on contact with water. I am thinking that you need to get a carburetor
kit and completely disassemble and clean everything. If you do that, then
you at least eliminate the carburetor as a source of the problem.
When you had the tank out, how exactly did you get the water out of it? I
like to leave them in the hot sun for a day or two, so it is really "dry as
a bone" in there. This time of year, that may not be so practical, but the
inside of that tank has to be dry.
With water in the tank, it could also be in the canister and other parts of
the fuel system.
Earle
"jd" <jd04@centurytel.net> wrote in message
news:1166890299.219073.60730@73g2000cwn.googlegrou ps.com...
> Thanks again Mike.
>
> None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!
>
> The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water
> in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still
> running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has
> a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things
> to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.
>
> Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated
> as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.
>
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more
> > possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.
> >
> > Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank
> > vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?
> >
> > The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of
> > it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation
> > of running out of gas and really lean.
> >
> > When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I
> > opened the gas cap.
> >
> > Has the mix been set right on the Weber?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > jd wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it
> > > could this still apply?
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > > That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.
> > > >
> > > > A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them
wonders.
> > > >
> > > > Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually
need to
> > > > be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without
removing
> > > > the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi
will
> > > > twist and lift out.
> > > >
> > > > http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
> > > >
> > > > One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a
retorque.
> > > > To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If
the
> > > > engine stumbles you have a leak.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > jd04@centurytel.net wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had
water in
> > > > > the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough
started
> > > > > diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires,
> > > > > filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean
and
> > > > > 3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire
at a
> > > > > time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect
on how
> > > > > it ran.
>