aGraham

I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
to document what I am going to do.

Soon to be fixed:
1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
taking body off to make easier.

2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
'89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.

3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)

4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)

5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
Anything else I should do?

6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
kit listed. Anything else I should do?

7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.

8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.

9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
working.

Thanks for reading my rambling list...

Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.

Aaron

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

RoyJ

1) Fixing frames is MUCH easier with the tub off. It also allows you to
put a coat of paint on the resulting repair. Use a mend plate about the
same thickness as the original metal, in this case .125" or .134" steel
should be fine. Using thicker stock gives you stress concentrations.

2)Swapping engines is easier with the body off. Painting is eaiser with
the body off.

3) just do the brakes. Turn the drums for $12 each, new shoes.

4) Lightly scuff the gel coat with 240 or 320 grit wet/dry paper (the
black stuff) run with plenty of water. Use primer putty (this is a one
part paste that comes in a tube)to fix any scratches. Use regular Bondo
if you have deep gouges. Use fiberglass repair kit for any cracks. First
two are available at a good auto parts store or auto paint place. Latter
is availalble at boat places. www.westmarine.com

Key to getting rattle cans to work right is to get enough paint on at
one time to wet the surface. Use one can in each hand, maybe have a
friend using a third can. Aim so they are hitting about 6" apart. You
might want to buy a can holder that grips the can and holds the button
down. Use a carbon filter mask to avoid losing any more brain cells.
($20 at a home store) Put on a thin coat of primer, sand again, hit it
with the color of your choice. Select a primer color that is closest to
yoour final color. (light grey for white or yellow, redish for reds,
dark grey for blue and black.

5) Be carefull getting the bolt out. It's easy to gouge the aluminum.
Replacing the synchros would be nice but they are not always easy to get
in and shimmed correctly.

6) If you have the Dana 300 transfer case, just clean and replace the
front and rear seals. If you have the Np231 with the chain, inspect the
chain and replace if it has much slop.

7) Centerforce clutch is overrated for Jeep use. Use a stock clutch.

8) Gage problems on fiberglass conversions are often due to poor
grounds. Make sure your tank is grounded to the frame with a new braid,
make sure your dash is grounded to both the frame and the engine.

9) New tail lights are less than $20, just do both so they look nice.
Don't forget to run a decent ground wire on your fiberglass tub.

aGraham wrote:

> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>

RoyJ

1) Fixing frames is MUCH easier with the tub off. It also allows you to
put a coat of paint on the resulting repair. Use a mend plate about the
same thickness as the original metal, in this case .125" or .134" steel
should be fine. Using thicker stock gives you stress concentrations.

2)Swapping engines is easier with the body off. Painting is eaiser with
the body off.

3) just do the brakes. Turn the drums for $12 each, new shoes.

4) Lightly scuff the gel coat with 240 or 320 grit wet/dry paper (the
black stuff) run with plenty of water. Use primer putty (this is a one
part paste that comes in a tube)to fix any scratches. Use regular Bondo
if you have deep gouges. Use fiberglass repair kit for any cracks. First
two are available at a good auto parts store or auto paint place. Latter
is availalble at boat places. www.westmarine.com

Key to getting rattle cans to work right is to get enough paint on at
one time to wet the surface. Use one can in each hand, maybe have a
friend using a third can. Aim so they are hitting about 6" apart. You
might want to buy a can holder that grips the can and holds the button
down. Use a carbon filter mask to avoid losing any more brain cells.
($20 at a home store) Put on a thin coat of primer, sand again, hit it
with the color of your choice. Select a primer color that is closest to
yoour final color. (light grey for white or yellow, redish for reds,
dark grey for blue and black.

5) Be carefull getting the bolt out. It's easy to gouge the aluminum.
Replacing the synchros would be nice but they are not always easy to get
in and shimmed correctly.

6) If you have the Dana 300 transfer case, just clean and replace the
front and rear seals. If you have the Np231 with the chain, inspect the
chain and replace if it has much slop.

7) Centerforce clutch is overrated for Jeep use. Use a stock clutch.

8) Gage problems on fiberglass conversions are often due to poor
grounds. Make sure your tank is grounded to the frame with a new braid,
make sure your dash is grounded to both the frame and the engine.

9) New tail lights are less than $20, just do both so they look nice.
Don't forget to run a decent ground wire on your fiberglass tub.

aGraham wrote:

> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>

RoyJ

1) Fixing frames is MUCH easier with the tub off. It also allows you to
put a coat of paint on the resulting repair. Use a mend plate about the
same thickness as the original metal, in this case .125" or .134" steel
should be fine. Using thicker stock gives you stress concentrations.

2)Swapping engines is easier with the body off. Painting is eaiser with
the body off.

3) just do the brakes. Turn the drums for $12 each, new shoes.

4) Lightly scuff the gel coat with 240 or 320 grit wet/dry paper (the
black stuff) run with plenty of water. Use primer putty (this is a one
part paste that comes in a tube)to fix any scratches. Use regular Bondo
if you have deep gouges. Use fiberglass repair kit for any cracks. First
two are available at a good auto parts store or auto paint place. Latter
is availalble at boat places. www.westmarine.com

Key to getting rattle cans to work right is to get enough paint on at
one time to wet the surface. Use one can in each hand, maybe have a
friend using a third can. Aim so they are hitting about 6" apart. You
might want to buy a can holder that grips the can and holds the button
down. Use a carbon filter mask to avoid losing any more brain cells.
($20 at a home store) Put on a thin coat of primer, sand again, hit it
with the color of your choice. Select a primer color that is closest to
yoour final color. (light grey for white or yellow, redish for reds,
dark grey for blue and black.

5) Be carefull getting the bolt out. It's easy to gouge the aluminum.
Replacing the synchros would be nice but they are not always easy to get
in and shimmed correctly.

6) If you have the Dana 300 transfer case, just clean and replace the
front and rear seals. If you have the Np231 with the chain, inspect the
chain and replace if it has much slop.

7) Centerforce clutch is overrated for Jeep use. Use a stock clutch.

8) Gage problems on fiberglass conversions are often due to poor
grounds. Make sure your tank is grounded to the frame with a new braid,
make sure your dash is grounded to both the frame and the engine.

9) New tail lights are less than $20, just do both so they look nice.
Don't forget to run a decent ground wire on your fiberglass tub.

aGraham wrote:

> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>

RoyJ

1) Fixing frames is MUCH easier with the tub off. It also allows you to
put a coat of paint on the resulting repair. Use a mend plate about the
same thickness as the original metal, in this case .125" or .134" steel
should be fine. Using thicker stock gives you stress concentrations.

2)Swapping engines is easier with the body off. Painting is eaiser with
the body off.

3) just do the brakes. Turn the drums for $12 each, new shoes.

4) Lightly scuff the gel coat with 240 or 320 grit wet/dry paper (the
black stuff) run with plenty of water. Use primer putty (this is a one
part paste that comes in a tube)to fix any scratches. Use regular Bondo
if you have deep gouges. Use fiberglass repair kit for any cracks. First
two are available at a good auto parts store or auto paint place. Latter
is availalble at boat places. www.westmarine.com

Key to getting rattle cans to work right is to get enough paint on at
one time to wet the surface. Use one can in each hand, maybe have a
friend using a third can. Aim so they are hitting about 6" apart. You
might want to buy a can holder that grips the can and holds the button
down. Use a carbon filter mask to avoid losing any more brain cells.
($20 at a home store) Put on a thin coat of primer, sand again, hit it
with the color of your choice. Select a primer color that is closest to
yoour final color. (light grey for white or yellow, redish for reds,
dark grey for blue and black.

5) Be carefull getting the bolt out. It's easy to gouge the aluminum.
Replacing the synchros would be nice but they are not always easy to get
in and shimmed correctly.

6) If you have the Dana 300 transfer case, just clean and replace the
front and rear seals. If you have the Np231 with the chain, inspect the
chain and replace if it has much slop.

7) Centerforce clutch is overrated for Jeep use. Use a stock clutch.

8) Gage problems on fiberglass conversions are often due to poor
grounds. Make sure your tank is grounded to the frame with a new braid,
make sure your dash is grounded to both the frame and the engine.

9) New tail lights are less than $20, just do both so they look nice.
Don't forget to run a decent ground wire on your fiberglass tub.

aGraham wrote:

> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>

Mike Romain

Winter 2006/7 right? ;-)

You cannot likely swap brake parts. I used the cheapest rear shoes in
my CJ7 back in 2000 and just replaced them a month ago. They wore out
'perfectly' down to paper thin. I have never seen anything like it.
LOL!

Make sure that 'tired' engine's blowby isn't just a failed purge valve
on the charcoal canister or a pinched PCV line elbow or your 'new'
engine will puke out just as much oil.

Unless you left leg is built like a pro footballer's leg, forget that
centerforce clutch. It needs about 100 lb on the pedal with the
mechanical linkage to get that sucker to release. My wife had to
actually pull up on the steering wheel to get the pedal down. I went
back to the stock borg warner clutch, way nicer!

Used clutches are trouble waiting for a bad place to fail, not
recommended. They won't mate up to your flywheel properly and usually
will chatter and vibrate themselves to dust or humidity might have
attacked them while they were sitting out which just causes the pad to
fall off.

Here is a good link that might help with the fuel gauge:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/electrical/gauges/

You can fart around with new sockets and pigtails, (they are your basic
GM plugs and sockets, I used a GM van's harness for my spare parts) or
just get a whole new rear light for about $20.00, $25.00 if it's the
license plate one. (extra bottom lens) They are just universal trailer
light fixtures. Also be aware the brake light grounds via the fixture
bolts and the running light grounds via the harness. I have a 'glass
tub so I just soldered a wire right on the back of the fixture for my
brake and signal ground.

The rest you have the right idea, can't help on the frame specs or
'glass paint, I left my 'glass gel coat white.

The T-case has shift fork seals. Good idea to change those too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

aGraham wrote:
>
> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

Mike Romain

Winter 2006/7 right? ;-)

You cannot likely swap brake parts. I used the cheapest rear shoes in
my CJ7 back in 2000 and just replaced them a month ago. They wore out
'perfectly' down to paper thin. I have never seen anything like it.
LOL!

Make sure that 'tired' engine's blowby isn't just a failed purge valve
on the charcoal canister or a pinched PCV line elbow or your 'new'
engine will puke out just as much oil.

Unless you left leg is built like a pro footballer's leg, forget that
centerforce clutch. It needs about 100 lb on the pedal with the
mechanical linkage to get that sucker to release. My wife had to
actually pull up on the steering wheel to get the pedal down. I went
back to the stock borg warner clutch, way nicer!

Used clutches are trouble waiting for a bad place to fail, not
recommended. They won't mate up to your flywheel properly and usually
will chatter and vibrate themselves to dust or humidity might have
attacked them while they were sitting out which just causes the pad to
fall off.

Here is a good link that might help with the fuel gauge:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/electrical/gauges/

You can fart around with new sockets and pigtails, (they are your basic
GM plugs and sockets, I used a GM van's harness for my spare parts) or
just get a whole new rear light for about $20.00, $25.00 if it's the
license plate one. (extra bottom lens) They are just universal trailer
light fixtures. Also be aware the brake light grounds via the fixture
bolts and the running light grounds via the harness. I have a 'glass
tub so I just soldered a wire right on the back of the fixture for my
brake and signal ground.

The rest you have the right idea, can't help on the frame specs or
'glass paint, I left my 'glass gel coat white.

The T-case has shift fork seals. Good idea to change those too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

aGraham wrote:
>
> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

Mike Romain

Winter 2006/7 right? ;-)

You cannot likely swap brake parts. I used the cheapest rear shoes in
my CJ7 back in 2000 and just replaced them a month ago. They wore out
'perfectly' down to paper thin. I have never seen anything like it.
LOL!

Make sure that 'tired' engine's blowby isn't just a failed purge valve
on the charcoal canister or a pinched PCV line elbow or your 'new'
engine will puke out just as much oil.

Unless you left leg is built like a pro footballer's leg, forget that
centerforce clutch. It needs about 100 lb on the pedal with the
mechanical linkage to get that sucker to release. My wife had to
actually pull up on the steering wheel to get the pedal down. I went
back to the stock borg warner clutch, way nicer!

Used clutches are trouble waiting for a bad place to fail, not
recommended. They won't mate up to your flywheel properly and usually
will chatter and vibrate themselves to dust or humidity might have
attacked them while they were sitting out which just causes the pad to
fall off.

Here is a good link that might help with the fuel gauge:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/electrical/gauges/

You can fart around with new sockets and pigtails, (they are your basic
GM plugs and sockets, I used a GM van's harness for my spare parts) or
just get a whole new rear light for about $20.00, $25.00 if it's the
license plate one. (extra bottom lens) They are just universal trailer
light fixtures. Also be aware the brake light grounds via the fixture
bolts and the running light grounds via the harness. I have a 'glass
tub so I just soldered a wire right on the back of the fixture for my
brake and signal ground.

The rest you have the right idea, can't help on the frame specs or
'glass paint, I left my 'glass gel coat white.

The T-case has shift fork seals. Good idea to change those too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

aGraham wrote:
>
> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

Mike Romain

Winter 2006/7 right? ;-)

You cannot likely swap brake parts. I used the cheapest rear shoes in
my CJ7 back in 2000 and just replaced them a month ago. They wore out
'perfectly' down to paper thin. I have never seen anything like it.
LOL!

Make sure that 'tired' engine's blowby isn't just a failed purge valve
on the charcoal canister or a pinched PCV line elbow or your 'new'
engine will puke out just as much oil.

Unless you left leg is built like a pro footballer's leg, forget that
centerforce clutch. It needs about 100 lb on the pedal with the
mechanical linkage to get that sucker to release. My wife had to
actually pull up on the steering wheel to get the pedal down. I went
back to the stock borg warner clutch, way nicer!

Used clutches are trouble waiting for a bad place to fail, not
recommended. They won't mate up to your flywheel properly and usually
will chatter and vibrate themselves to dust or humidity might have
attacked them while they were sitting out which just causes the pad to
fall off.

Here is a good link that might help with the fuel gauge:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/electrical/gauges/

You can fart around with new sockets and pigtails, (they are your basic
GM plugs and sockets, I used a GM van's harness for my spare parts) or
just get a whole new rear light for about $20.00, $25.00 if it's the
license plate one. (extra bottom lens) They are just universal trailer
light fixtures. Also be aware the brake light grounds via the fixture
bolts and the running light grounds via the harness. I have a 'glass
tub so I just soldered a wire right on the back of the fixture for my
brake and signal ground.

The rest you have the right idea, can't help on the frame specs or
'glass paint, I left my 'glass gel coat white.

The T-case has shift fork seals. Good idea to change those too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

aGraham wrote:
>
> I am about to resurrect my Heep after sitting for a year, due to
> multiple issues. This list is both to ask questions/opinion and for me
> to document what I am going to do.
>
> Soon to be fixed:
> 1.) rusted frame... Will be replacing the whole inside wall on the
> drivers side from the firewall back to above the rear axle(where it was
> repleced before I bought it). What size plate should I use? I know the
> plates should be <=> shaped, and welded by a certified welder. Will be
> taking body off to make easier.
>
> 2.) Replacing leaking(atleast 1 qt of oil per 150 miles), tired(85K
> miles and a bunch of blow by) 258 with a freshly rebuilt 4.2 out of a
> '89 Wrangler. Will be using my old carb, and swapping the flywheel.
>
> 3.) Rear brakes need refreshing. I know I need atleast shoes, but I
> also have another idea... Will the brakes from a '75 CJ5 Dana 44 swap
> over to the Dana 30?(I have a complete Dana 44 in the garage with brand
> new brakes that I could scavenge) (I would swap it in but it is set for
> spring over and I am not ready to lift it yet)
>
> 4.) Possibly painting the faded fiberglass body(supposed to be red but
> is a nice PINK.) Any prep I should do before I paint it? I will be
> using rattle cans, so I know it won't come out perfect but don't want it
> to peel or something becase I missed a simple step.)
>
> 5.) Fix leaking T5 Transmission. It leaks due to a broken bolt in the
> case, and figure I should replace seals while I have the chance. I see
> a Front Bearing Retainer seal, and a Rear output shaft seal listed.
> Anything else I should do?
>
> 6.) Fix leaking Dana 300 Transfer case. Not exactly sure where it is
> leaking so figure I wil replace the seals also. I see a Gasket & Seals
> kit listed. Anything else I should do?
>
> 7.) Possibly swapping in a used CenterForce clutch. Mine has slipped a
> bit in the past and figure I might as well while I am in there.
>
> 8.) Hopefully diagnosing fuel gauge issue.
>
> 9.) replace a bad rear brake light that is all corroded inside and not
> working.
>
> Thanks for reading my rambling list...
>
> Oh yeah I hope to get all of this done by winter.
>
> Aaron
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

aGraham

In article <43283843.E8A90DEB@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Winter 2006/7 right? ;-)

I am hoping that lack of budget will keep me on the straight and narrow
plan. And I know the Jeep is still not going to be perfect when I am
done, just trying to get it back on the road for the winter and possibly
due some wheeling.


>
> You cannot likely swap brake parts. I used the cheapest rear shoes in
> my CJ7 back in 2000 and just replaced them a month ago. They wore out
> 'perfectly' down to paper thin. I have never seen anything like it.
> LOL!

This is sounding like a better option so I can keep the parts for when I
swap the axle.

>
> Make sure that 'tired' engine's blowby isn't just a failed purge valve
> on the charcoal canister or a pinched PCV line elbow or your 'new'
> engine will puke out just as much oil.

It was defintely blow by and the leaks make it worth replacing.

>
> Unless you left leg is built like a pro footballer's leg, forget that
> centerforce clutch. It needs about 100 lb on the pedal with the
> mechanical linkage to get that sucker to release. My wife had to
> actually pull up on the steering wheel to get the pedal down. I went
> back to the stock borg warner clutch, way nicer!
>
> Used clutches are trouble waiting for a bad place to fail, not
> recommended. They won't mate up to your flywheel properly and usually
> will chatter and vibrate themselves to dust or humidity might have
> attacked them while they were sitting out which just causes the pad to
> fall off.
>

Thanks for the info... making me think again as it has been sitting for
a couple of years.

> Here is a good link that might help with the fuel gauge:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/electrical/gauges/

Already have it all printed out, done almost everything except test the
sending unit.

>
> You can fart around with new sockets and pigtails, (they are your basic
> GM plugs and sockets, I used a GM van's harness for my spare parts) or
> just get a whole new rear light for about $20.00, $25.00 if it's the
> license plate one. (extra bottom lens) They are just universal trailer
> light fixtures. Also be aware the brake light grounds via the fixture
> bolts and the running light grounds via the harness. I have a 'glass
> tub so I just soldered a wire right on the back of the fixture for my
> brake and signal ground.
>

I already replaced the drivers side one so I know how easy it is and the
grounding issues.

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)