Billy Ray

The chances of everything failing at the same time is pretty small. That
being said it is possible that multiple components were in the process of
failing and it only took one additional event to provide the strain to throw
the rest over the edge (so to speak)

How long should a water pump last? Well... They are generally guaranteed
for a year (at least) and I have had them fail at less than one year. But
them my neighbor has a 1966 Galaxy Convertible that is still on the factory
installed pump.

Perhaps we should have a brief aside on mass production. Most of the mass
produced parts will perform adequately for many years. A few are
extraordinarily well made and unfortunately a few should never have left the
factory as they did not meet specs straight out of the box. This means it
is possible to buy defective OEM parts. Sometimes a part is just poorly
designed to its intended use. I had a 1970 Mercury Montego that had 4
waterpumps in the 3 years I had the car. The longest any of the pumps lasted
was 9 months and were all replaced by Ford as a warranty failure.

My belief is, and I think most here would back me up, is that most premature
failures are caused by a lack of proper maintenance. Now I did not say that
the factory recommended maintenance schedule was not followed. If you
change your oil at the factory recommended 7,500 miles you deserve to have
an engine failure if you drive the way that most people drive. Most people
are not salesmen who drive 35,000 miles a year.

In the case of cooling system components the main cause of failure is
insufficient concentration of coolant followed by failure to regularly flush
the cooling system. It has only been in recent years that the coolant
companies said publicly that concentrations less than 50% will protect you
from freezing in the south but this same lowered concentration will not
protect your cooling system from corrosion and cavitation. Yes, they have
for many years recommended 50-50 but I don't recall any Prestone commercial
that came out and said that you needed 50-50 to prevent corrosion.

If you go to the auto parts store today you will see that Prestone now
offers a "lifetime guarantee" coolant. I wonder if their concept of
"lifetime" is the same as mine. Perhaps they mean that it should last until
you sell the car.

If you rely on the claim that antifreeze is good for 5 years or 150,000
miles....... good luck to you. Perhaps it does last that long but I am not
willing to chance it. Old fashioned "American Green" antifreeze costs $8.99
a gallon and must be changed no longer than 2 years. The new Xerex G-05
coolant from Valvoline required for 2002 and newer Chrysler (and ford and
Mercedes) cost me $9.99 a gallon and supposedly lasts 5 years.

Once I began scheduled,2 year, cooling system flushes and replacement about
25 years ago I have had one cooling system failure and it was at 160,000
miles on a car we got at 113,000 miles that had a questionable maintenance
history (ex-wife gave her old car to our daughter)

Some of you wonder why Bill is ALWAYS "HARPING" on regular maintenance.
Bill has 40+ years of automotive experience including owing the Chevron
garage where he made a good living from people who couldn't be bothered to
change their oil or antifreeze regularly, or even check the air in their
tires.

Do I waste money on my extra preventive maintenance? Yes, but you can buy a
lot of oil and filters and antifreeze with the cost of your car's first trip
on the back of a wrecker. Have my cars ever been on "the hook"? Sure they
have but not for lack of maintenance.

Now that diatribe is over what should you do?

Have you kept antifreeze at 50%? I ask because I am wondering if the new
radiator is still sound. When you put your hand over the coils is the
temperature consistent over the entire face? Cool spots can indicate an
area that is plugged.

Thermostats only cost a couple dollars. They have a very long service life
but if the thermostat or radiator cap is a possibility it would be silly to
not change it to save $5.

Water pumps are relatively cheap, so are fan clutches. (~$30-$40 each).
Make sure your water pump impeller pumps the right way, some pump in
reverse....

For ~$100 you can replace everything including the antifreeze and be off to
a new scheduled life.

PS
Do we know why the original cooling system failed a year and a half ago?






"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:UMMDe.19222$5N3.10978@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>> It has gone up just over the next gauge mark, which I think is 235. I
>>> think that it would have kept on going if I hadn't been moving agian.
>>>
>>> Where would the aux fan be, I looked, and haven't found one, unless it
>>> is
>>> between the AC coils and the radiator.
>>
>> Yep, that's too hot. I'm not even sure if your GC has the aux fan.
>> The XJ/MJ has an electric fan to the driver's behind the radiator that
>> cycles with the a/c and/or the high temp switch in the radiator.
>>
>
> What are the chances of nearly all of the components in the cooling system
> going out at the same time. I have had the thermostat go out, the fan
> clutch was on its way out, the radiator was replaced 1 1/2 years ago, and
> now it looks like the water pump is going?
>
> Does anybody know about how long a water pump should last?
>

Billy Ray

The chances of everything failing at the same time is pretty small. That
being said it is possible that multiple components were in the process of
failing and it only took one additional event to provide the strain to throw
the rest over the edge (so to speak)

How long should a water pump last? Well... They are generally guaranteed
for a year (at least) and I have had them fail at less than one year. But
them my neighbor has a 1966 Galaxy Convertible that is still on the factory
installed pump.

Perhaps we should have a brief aside on mass production. Most of the mass
produced parts will perform adequately for many years. A few are
extraordinarily well made and unfortunately a few should never have left the
factory as they did not meet specs straight out of the box. This means it
is possible to buy defective OEM parts. Sometimes a part is just poorly
designed to its intended use. I had a 1970 Mercury Montego that had 4
waterpumps in the 3 years I had the car. The longest any of the pumps lasted
was 9 months and were all replaced by Ford as a warranty failure.

My belief is, and I think most here would back me up, is that most premature
failures are caused by a lack of proper maintenance. Now I did not say that
the factory recommended maintenance schedule was not followed. If you
change your oil at the factory recommended 7,500 miles you deserve to have
an engine failure if you drive the way that most people drive. Most people
are not salesmen who drive 35,000 miles a year.

In the case of cooling system components the main cause of failure is
insufficient concentration of coolant followed by failure to regularly flush
the cooling system. It has only been in recent years that the coolant
companies said publicly that concentrations less than 50% will protect you
from freezing in the south but this same lowered concentration will not
protect your cooling system from corrosion and cavitation. Yes, they have
for many years recommended 50-50 but I don't recall any Prestone commercial
that came out and said that you needed 50-50 to prevent corrosion.

If you go to the auto parts store today you will see that Prestone now
offers a "lifetime guarantee" coolant. I wonder if their concept of
"lifetime" is the same as mine. Perhaps they mean that it should last until
you sell the car.

If you rely on the claim that antifreeze is good for 5 years or 150,000
miles....... good luck to you. Perhaps it does last that long but I am not
willing to chance it. Old fashioned "American Green" antifreeze costs $8.99
a gallon and must be changed no longer than 2 years. The new Xerex G-05
coolant from Valvoline required for 2002 and newer Chrysler (and ford and
Mercedes) cost me $9.99 a gallon and supposedly lasts 5 years.

Once I began scheduled,2 year, cooling system flushes and replacement about
25 years ago I have had one cooling system failure and it was at 160,000
miles on a car we got at 113,000 miles that had a questionable maintenance
history (ex-wife gave her old car to our daughter)

Some of you wonder why Bill is ALWAYS "HARPING" on regular maintenance.
Bill has 40+ years of automotive experience including owing the Chevron
garage where he made a good living from people who couldn't be bothered to
change their oil or antifreeze regularly, or even check the air in their
tires.

Do I waste money on my extra preventive maintenance? Yes, but you can buy a
lot of oil and filters and antifreeze with the cost of your car's first trip
on the back of a wrecker. Have my cars ever been on "the hook"? Sure they
have but not for lack of maintenance.

Now that diatribe is over what should you do?

Have you kept antifreeze at 50%? I ask because I am wondering if the new
radiator is still sound. When you put your hand over the coils is the
temperature consistent over the entire face? Cool spots can indicate an
area that is plugged.

Thermostats only cost a couple dollars. They have a very long service life
but if the thermostat or radiator cap is a possibility it would be silly to
not change it to save $5.

Water pumps are relatively cheap, so are fan clutches. (~$30-$40 each).
Make sure your water pump impeller pumps the right way, some pump in
reverse....

For ~$100 you can replace everything including the antifreeze and be off to
a new scheduled life.

PS
Do we know why the original cooling system failed a year and a half ago?






"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:UMMDe.19222$5N3.10978@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>> It has gone up just over the next gauge mark, which I think is 235. I
>>> think that it would have kept on going if I hadn't been moving agian.
>>>
>>> Where would the aux fan be, I looked, and haven't found one, unless it
>>> is
>>> between the AC coils and the radiator.
>>
>> Yep, that's too hot. I'm not even sure if your GC has the aux fan.
>> The XJ/MJ has an electric fan to the driver's behind the radiator that
>> cycles with the a/c and/or the high temp switch in the radiator.
>>
>
> What are the chances of nearly all of the components in the cooling system
> going out at the same time. I have had the thermostat go out, the fan
> clutch was on its way out, the radiator was replaced 1 1/2 years ago, and
> now it looks like the water pump is going?
>
> Does anybody know about how long a water pump should last?
>

Billy Ray

The chances of everything failing at the same time is pretty small. That
being said it is possible that multiple components were in the process of
failing and it only took one additional event to provide the strain to throw
the rest over the edge (so to speak)

How long should a water pump last? Well... They are generally guaranteed
for a year (at least) and I have had them fail at less than one year. But
them my neighbor has a 1966 Galaxy Convertible that is still on the factory
installed pump.

Perhaps we should have a brief aside on mass production. Most of the mass
produced parts will perform adequately for many years. A few are
extraordinarily well made and unfortunately a few should never have left the
factory as they did not meet specs straight out of the box. This means it
is possible to buy defective OEM parts. Sometimes a part is just poorly
designed to its intended use. I had a 1970 Mercury Montego that had 4
waterpumps in the 3 years I had the car. The longest any of the pumps lasted
was 9 months and were all replaced by Ford as a warranty failure.

My belief is, and I think most here would back me up, is that most premature
failures are caused by a lack of proper maintenance. Now I did not say that
the factory recommended maintenance schedule was not followed. If you
change your oil at the factory recommended 7,500 miles you deserve to have
an engine failure if you drive the way that most people drive. Most people
are not salesmen who drive 35,000 miles a year.

In the case of cooling system components the main cause of failure is
insufficient concentration of coolant followed by failure to regularly flush
the cooling system. It has only been in recent years that the coolant
companies said publicly that concentrations less than 50% will protect you
from freezing in the south but this same lowered concentration will not
protect your cooling system from corrosion and cavitation. Yes, they have
for many years recommended 50-50 but I don't recall any Prestone commercial
that came out and said that you needed 50-50 to prevent corrosion.

If you go to the auto parts store today you will see that Prestone now
offers a "lifetime guarantee" coolant. I wonder if their concept of
"lifetime" is the same as mine. Perhaps they mean that it should last until
you sell the car.

If you rely on the claim that antifreeze is good for 5 years or 150,000
miles....... good luck to you. Perhaps it does last that long but I am not
willing to chance it. Old fashioned "American Green" antifreeze costs $8.99
a gallon and must be changed no longer than 2 years. The new Xerex G-05
coolant from Valvoline required for 2002 and newer Chrysler (and ford and
Mercedes) cost me $9.99 a gallon and supposedly lasts 5 years.

Once I began scheduled,2 year, cooling system flushes and replacement about
25 years ago I have had one cooling system failure and it was at 160,000
miles on a car we got at 113,000 miles that had a questionable maintenance
history (ex-wife gave her old car to our daughter)

Some of you wonder why Bill is ALWAYS "HARPING" on regular maintenance.
Bill has 40+ years of automotive experience including owing the Chevron
garage where he made a good living from people who couldn't be bothered to
change their oil or antifreeze regularly, or even check the air in their
tires.

Do I waste money on my extra preventive maintenance? Yes, but you can buy a
lot of oil and filters and antifreeze with the cost of your car's first trip
on the back of a wrecker. Have my cars ever been on "the hook"? Sure they
have but not for lack of maintenance.

Now that diatribe is over what should you do?

Have you kept antifreeze at 50%? I ask because I am wondering if the new
radiator is still sound. When you put your hand over the coils is the
temperature consistent over the entire face? Cool spots can indicate an
area that is plugged.

Thermostats only cost a couple dollars. They have a very long service life
but if the thermostat or radiator cap is a possibility it would be silly to
not change it to save $5.

Water pumps are relatively cheap, so are fan clutches. (~$30-$40 each).
Make sure your water pump impeller pumps the right way, some pump in
reverse....

For ~$100 you can replace everything including the antifreeze and be off to
a new scheduled life.

PS
Do we know why the original cooling system failed a year and a half ago?






"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:UMMDe.19222$5N3.10978@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>> It has gone up just over the next gauge mark, which I think is 235. I
>>> think that it would have kept on going if I hadn't been moving agian.
>>>
>>> Where would the aux fan be, I looked, and haven't found one, unless it
>>> is
>>> between the AC coils and the radiator.
>>
>> Yep, that's too hot. I'm not even sure if your GC has the aux fan.
>> The XJ/MJ has an electric fan to the driver's behind the radiator that
>> cycles with the a/c and/or the high temp switch in the radiator.
>>
>
> What are the chances of nearly all of the components in the cooling system
> going out at the same time. I have had the thermostat go out, the fan
> clutch was on its way out, the radiator was replaced 1 1/2 years ago, and
> now it looks like the water pump is going?
>
> Does anybody know about how long a water pump should last?
>

Earle Horton

I used to work on agricultural sprayers. Now that was some heavy duty
corrosive fluid! They use a fluid pump, much like your vehicle's water
pump. I have seen some corroded impellers, but not many. Even a really
chewed up impeller will still pump pretty well. Well enough to get methyl
parathion, mineral sulphur, and whatever else they felt like putting in the
tank, over the tops of the apple trees. Usually, it is the seal that goes
bad first. Still, if you believe that the pump is bad, take it off and look
at it.

I haven't replaced a water pump, since I switched to a policy of using pure
antifreeze, and never changing it.

Earle

"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:K9PDe.19585$5N3.17245@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> > things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> > miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan
shaft
> > would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any
leaks.
> > Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the
impeller
> > were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >
> > I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you
would
> > have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> > you
> > can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> > this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> > with
> > the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> > note
> > what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> > 235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> > the
> > coolant before this.
> >
> > Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> > is
> > boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you,
I
> > have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> > Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> > with
> > big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> > mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> > says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> > different
> > way.
> >
>
> I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as
I
> was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would
make
> me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
>
>
>

Earle Horton

I used to work on agricultural sprayers. Now that was some heavy duty
corrosive fluid! They use a fluid pump, much like your vehicle's water
pump. I have seen some corroded impellers, but not many. Even a really
chewed up impeller will still pump pretty well. Well enough to get methyl
parathion, mineral sulphur, and whatever else they felt like putting in the
tank, over the tops of the apple trees. Usually, it is the seal that goes
bad first. Still, if you believe that the pump is bad, take it off and look
at it.

I haven't replaced a water pump, since I switched to a policy of using pure
antifreeze, and never changing it.

Earle

"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:K9PDe.19585$5N3.17245@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> > things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> > miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan
shaft
> > would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any
leaks.
> > Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the
impeller
> > were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >
> > I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you
would
> > have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> > you
> > can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> > this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> > with
> > the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> > note
> > what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> > 235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> > the
> > coolant before this.
> >
> > Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> > is
> > boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you,
I
> > have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> > Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> > with
> > big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> > mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> > says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> > different
> > way.
> >
>
> I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as
I
> was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would
make
> me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
>
>
>

Earle Horton

I used to work on agricultural sprayers. Now that was some heavy duty
corrosive fluid! They use a fluid pump, much like your vehicle's water
pump. I have seen some corroded impellers, but not many. Even a really
chewed up impeller will still pump pretty well. Well enough to get methyl
parathion, mineral sulphur, and whatever else they felt like putting in the
tank, over the tops of the apple trees. Usually, it is the seal that goes
bad first. Still, if you believe that the pump is bad, take it off and look
at it.

I haven't replaced a water pump, since I switched to a policy of using pure
antifreeze, and never changing it.

Earle

"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:K9PDe.19585$5N3.17245@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> > things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> > miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan
shaft
> > would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any
leaks.
> > Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the
impeller
> > were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >
> > I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you
would
> > have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> > you
> > can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> > this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> > with
> > the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> > note
> > what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> > 235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> > the
> > coolant before this.
> >
> > Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> > is
> > boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you,
I
> > have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> > Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> > with
> > big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> > mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> > says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> > different
> > way.
> >
>
> I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as
I
> was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would
make
> me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
>
>
>

Earle Horton

I used to work on agricultural sprayers. Now that was some heavy duty
corrosive fluid! They use a fluid pump, much like your vehicle's water
pump. I have seen some corroded impellers, but not many. Even a really
chewed up impeller will still pump pretty well. Well enough to get methyl
parathion, mineral sulphur, and whatever else they felt like putting in the
tank, over the tops of the apple trees. Usually, it is the seal that goes
bad first. Still, if you believe that the pump is bad, take it off and look
at it.

I haven't replaced a water pump, since I switched to a policy of using pure
antifreeze, and never changing it.

Earle

"YouGoFirst" <yougofirst@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:K9PDe.19585$5N3.17245@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> > things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> > miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan
shaft
> > would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any
leaks.
> > Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the
impeller
> > were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >
> > I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you
would
> > have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> > you
> > can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> > this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> > with
> > the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> > note
> > what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> > 235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> > the
> > coolant before this.
> >
> > Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> > is
> > boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you,
I
> > have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> > Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> > with
> > big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> > mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> > says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> > different
> > way.
> >
>
> I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as
I
> was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would
make
> me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
>
>
>

Will Honea

I go with Jerry. The pump is essentially dead weight until you get
the thermostat open (Yeah, I know, it circulates in a closed loop,
etc) and has little effect on closed cycle warmup time unless you're
in the frozen North with the heater on. Slow warmup is almost a dead
giveaway for a sticking thermostat.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 15:34:09 UTC Jerry Bransford <jerrypb@***.net>
wrote:

> That would make me think stuck thermostat, certainly not the water pump.
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
> >>My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> >>things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> >>miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan shaft
> >>would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any leaks.
> >>Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the impeller
> >>were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >>
> >>I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you would
> >>have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> >>you
> >>can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> >>this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> >>with
> >>the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> >>note
> >>what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> >>235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> >>the
> >>coolant before this.
> >>
> >>Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> >>is
> >>boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you, I
> >>have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> >>Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> >>with
> >>big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> >>mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> >>says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> >>different
> >>way.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as I
> > was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> > up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would make
> > me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
> >
> >
> >
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

I go with Jerry. The pump is essentially dead weight until you get
the thermostat open (Yeah, I know, it circulates in a closed loop,
etc) and has little effect on closed cycle warmup time unless you're
in the frozen North with the heater on. Slow warmup is almost a dead
giveaway for a sticking thermostat.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 15:34:09 UTC Jerry Bransford <jerrypb@***.net>
wrote:

> That would make me think stuck thermostat, certainly not the water pump.
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
> >>My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> >>things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> >>miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan shaft
> >>would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any leaks.
> >>Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the impeller
> >>were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >>
> >>I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you would
> >>have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> >>you
> >>can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> >>this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> >>with
> >>the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> >>note
> >>what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> >>235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> >>the
> >>coolant before this.
> >>
> >>Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> >>is
> >>boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you, I
> >>have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> >>Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> >>with
> >>big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> >>mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> >>says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> >>different
> >>way.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as I
> > was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> > up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would make
> > me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
> >
> >
> >
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

I go with Jerry. The pump is essentially dead weight until you get
the thermostat open (Yeah, I know, it circulates in a closed loop,
etc) and has little effect on closed cycle warmup time unless you're
in the frozen North with the heater on. Slow warmup is almost a dead
giveaway for a sticking thermostat.

On Thu, 21 Jul 2005 15:34:09 UTC Jerry Bransford <jerrypb@***.net>
wrote:

> That would make me think stuck thermostat, certainly not the water pump.
>
> YouGoFirst wrote:
> >>My 2 cents. A water pump is a very simple device. There are only four
> >>things that can go bad, the bearings, the seal, the impeller, and
> >>miscellaneous leaks. You would hear the bearings if bad, or the fan shaft
> >>would be loose. I assume that you would spot a seal problem or any leaks.
> >>Loss of fluid and dripping would be your first clue. Now if the impeller
> >>were bad, then you would get poor circulation, but also at speed.
> >>
> >>I think we can assume that the pump is not the problem, although you would
> >>have to remove and inspect it to be absolutely sure. On some vehicles,
> >>you
> >>can take off the pressure cap and visually verify coolant flow, short of
> >>this. I do not know whether you can do so with the GC. Do not try it
> >>with
> >>the engine hot. Take off the cap with the engine cool, warm it up, and
> >>note
> >>what happens. If you wait long enough, and the engine is really running
> >>235, it may boil over. Oops! What you are looking for, is movement in
> >>the
> >>coolant before this.
> >>
> >>Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge, unless the system
> >>is
> >>boiling over. Then, you have real problems. If it really bothers you, I
> >>have some suggestions. Install those hood vents that someone mentioned.
> >>Buy or fabricate shims to lift up the back of the hood, like the ricers
> >>with
> >>big engines do. Load up the GC with camping gear, and head for the
> >>mountains. It's pretty hot up here even, but the Channel 9 weather girl
> >>says it's going to cool down by Saturday. She's hot too, but in a
> >>different
> >>way.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I am leaning more towards a bad impeller because I noticed thismorning as I
> > was driving into work earlier than normal, that the temperature didn't get
> > up to its normal 190 until I had slowed down below 35 mph. That would make
> > me think that the coolant isn't moving through the radiator fast enough.
> >
> >
> >
>


--
Will Honea