Mike Romain

Davey wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40708290.8317ADFC@sympatico.ca...
> > When it's happening, put your hand carefully on the light switch and see
> > if it's hot or even better see if it makes a click or snap when the
> > lights are flicking.
> >
> > If it's hot, the headlights are drawing too many amps. You might want
> > to check the connections on the back of the bulbs, you said you did
> > clean the grounds?
> >
> > Do you have stock headlight bulbs in there?
> >
> > Any added lights tied into the headlights?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Davey wrote:
> > >
> > > Few days ago I started one post about headlights on my XJ and seemed
> like
> > > problem was solved after reconnecting main ground wire and many other
> > > things, but this happened again. I was so happy two days with my
> headlights
> > > and this evening they started flickering again.
> > > Please, any more suggestions??
> > > Thanks
> > > Davey
>
> Yes, switch is getting hot, I don't know how hot it ''should be'' but it is.
> I did check the connections but I'm not sure that I found real ground
> connection for headlights because there (near the driver side headlight) I
> found bunch of cables and connections. And those connections I cleaned.
> There are fog lights on my rig but previous owner probably cut out
> connections, so nothing else on switch but main lights. I own this car about
> two years and I never changed bulb but seems like bulbs are fine. Probably
> they are stock but what is difference between stock and others? Power?
> Anyway, I found that many times something happened with electrical
> installation on this Jeep. Even my power seats stopped working three months
> ago due to very bad wire under the carpet but this is another, not so
> important problem.
> i will try again and will dissasemble everything. I really hate electrical
> problems on car.

If the headlights are stronger than the stock 55W bulbs, this will
overheat the breaker inside the headlight switch and it will start
flashing off and on eventually. It takes time to wear out the breaker
by heat.

Add a set of fogs to the power and the switch pops fast. Cut the wires
off the fogs and 'hope' the switch will hold until you sell it to the
next poor guy?

Do you have regular looking sealed beam headlights in there or are the
bulbs plug in from the back ones?

Flashing off and on is a blown breaker. Flickering is a bad connection.

You said the wire on the headlight switch was burned and you changed the
end. Did you do this before changing the switch or after when the
lights started flicking again?

If you cleaned this up after, you were likely too late. If the new
switch blew it's breaker before you cleaned up the connection, it will
never work stable again. Once the breaker is blown, you need a new
switch.

You can wait until the switch is hot and then go feel the wires out near
the headlights. If the wires near the headlights are hot, suspect the
bad connection out there. If they are cold, then it's at the switch
again.

Mike

Davey

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0404051013440.13664@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> OK, so it is time for you to give us more information, Davey.
>
> You said that you had already replaced the headlight switch and
> the dimmer switch, did the problem appear before or after you did this (if
> before, why did you replace those parts)?

Ok, I'll explain everything like it was. First it started one month ago when
I was about 300 km far from home in another city. In the evening I felt
strange smell inside a car, first I couldn't recognize what and where but
one hour later my headlights just extinguished (only low beam, parking was
still there). So I moved the switch in and out lights came back but not for
long. This evening was a nightmare to drive home 300 km on uknown road with
lights which can fall in any moment. Tomorrow, my friend who had XJ '88 told
me that he had problem with headlight switch on his Jeep and after
installing a new one everything was OK (but he also told me that he changed
three of them, three times). So I ordered a new one from 4WD Hardware and
they sent me dimmer switch also. In meantime, I disassembled my headlight
switch and found burned contact inside and male connection for headlights
(on switch) was wobbling. I assembled it again with some screws till new one
comes.
Later on, I installed a new one... Jack or connection for switch was melted
so I removed it completely and just connected directly on. I was so happy
that my problems have finally finished till next evening when lights started
blinking again(not flickering like I said before, sorry about my English but
I'm not from USA as you see). I studied Haynes again and thought, maybe
dimmer switch... installed a new one and again same thing, maybe relay...
put a new one, same.
All the time I notice that switch gets hot, especially old one on place
where is the rheostat for instrument lights dimmer and of course, tan wire
for headlights.
Under the hood I found this wire mesh strap just hanging from firewall (!)
so I connected it on intake manifold, later Mike told me it goes on last
bolt on head and I found this but I think it can stay on manifold also. Just
under the bolt which holds fuel rail. I looked around and found three ground
connections on left inner fender which I slacked off and tightened again.
All connections near left headlight i dismantled and sprayed with WD40.
Same evening I was driving around and nothing strange happened with
headlights, so happy, I sent reply on my post here that everything is fine
but tomorrow (means yesterday evening) ---- again.


> Mike has asked you a couple of times if you've got standard or
> aftermarket lamps installed as headlights. The answer is important, some
> aftermarket lamps pull far too much power.
I will remove headlights again to see, but here in Europe we don't have
headlights where bulbs are molded (I mean where bulb is a headlight complete
like I had on my Chevy Caprice Classic '83). Tomorrow I 'll check bulbs
again.

> Did you do anything else electrical to the Jeep before this
> started?
Yes, connected power for moving my seat on alternate connection because
seats stopped working due to corroded wire under the carpet.

> Do the headlights *flicker* or do they *blink*? Do they both do
> it at the same time? Flickering suggests a bad connection someplace,
> blinking (especially with a ticking noise behind the dash) suggest that
> the headlight breaker is tripping.
They blink, not flicker, sorry for misunderstanding, just going off and on
in second or two. After waiting about ten seconds I have lights back fot
longer period. Both lights go off and on in same time. Ticking noise is
coming from relay under the dash.
> Headlight breakers are just a thermal
> switch, not unlike a signal flasher, made of a bimetal strip and a pair of
> contacts: If you pull more power than the rating it heats up, the bimetal
> strip bends away and opens the contacts. When it cools down it bends back
> and closes the contacts. Close, hot, blink. Close, hot, blink. Close,
> hot, blink. Extra-bright aftermarket lights can pull more power than the
> breaker's rating, so can a wire that has chafed through and is shorting
> intermittantly to ground. Adding lights to the circuit (like driving
> lights that are wired directly to the headlight circuit) could also be a
> cause.
>
> Most corroded connections increase the circuit resistance and won't trip
> the breaker. The exception is the connection at the breaker: Corrosion
> here causes extra heat and fools the breaker into thinking it is
> overloaded.

That's the story, little bit too long. Sorry for bad English.

Davey

Davey

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0404051013440.13664@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> OK, so it is time for you to give us more information, Davey.
>
> You said that you had already replaced the headlight switch and
> the dimmer switch, did the problem appear before or after you did this (if
> before, why did you replace those parts)?

Ok, I'll explain everything like it was. First it started one month ago when
I was about 300 km far from home in another city. In the evening I felt
strange smell inside a car, first I couldn't recognize what and where but
one hour later my headlights just extinguished (only low beam, parking was
still there). So I moved the switch in and out lights came back but not for
long. This evening was a nightmare to drive home 300 km on uknown road with
lights which can fall in any moment. Tomorrow, my friend who had XJ '88 told
me that he had problem with headlight switch on his Jeep and after
installing a new one everything was OK (but he also told me that he changed
three of them, three times). So I ordered a new one from 4WD Hardware and
they sent me dimmer switch also. In meantime, I disassembled my headlight
switch and found burned contact inside and male connection for headlights
(on switch) was wobbling. I assembled it again with some screws till new one
comes.
Later on, I installed a new one... Jack or connection for switch was melted
so I removed it completely and just connected directly on. I was so happy
that my problems have finally finished till next evening when lights started
blinking again(not flickering like I said before, sorry about my English but
I'm not from USA as you see). I studied Haynes again and thought, maybe
dimmer switch... installed a new one and again same thing, maybe relay...
put a new one, same.
All the time I notice that switch gets hot, especially old one on place
where is the rheostat for instrument lights dimmer and of course, tan wire
for headlights.
Under the hood I found this wire mesh strap just hanging from firewall (!)
so I connected it on intake manifold, later Mike told me it goes on last
bolt on head and I found this but I think it can stay on manifold also. Just
under the bolt which holds fuel rail. I looked around and found three ground
connections on left inner fender which I slacked off and tightened again.
All connections near left headlight i dismantled and sprayed with WD40.
Same evening I was driving around and nothing strange happened with
headlights, so happy, I sent reply on my post here that everything is fine
but tomorrow (means yesterday evening) ---- again.


> Mike has asked you a couple of times if you've got standard or
> aftermarket lamps installed as headlights. The answer is important, some
> aftermarket lamps pull far too much power.
I will remove headlights again to see, but here in Europe we don't have
headlights where bulbs are molded (I mean where bulb is a headlight complete
like I had on my Chevy Caprice Classic '83). Tomorrow I 'll check bulbs
again.

> Did you do anything else electrical to the Jeep before this
> started?
Yes, connected power for moving my seat on alternate connection because
seats stopped working due to corroded wire under the carpet.

> Do the headlights *flicker* or do they *blink*? Do they both do
> it at the same time? Flickering suggests a bad connection someplace,
> blinking (especially with a ticking noise behind the dash) suggest that
> the headlight breaker is tripping.
They blink, not flicker, sorry for misunderstanding, just going off and on
in second or two. After waiting about ten seconds I have lights back fot
longer period. Both lights go off and on in same time. Ticking noise is
coming from relay under the dash.
> Headlight breakers are just a thermal
> switch, not unlike a signal flasher, made of a bimetal strip and a pair of
> contacts: If you pull more power than the rating it heats up, the bimetal
> strip bends away and opens the contacts. When it cools down it bends back
> and closes the contacts. Close, hot, blink. Close, hot, blink. Close,
> hot, blink. Extra-bright aftermarket lights can pull more power than the
> breaker's rating, so can a wire that has chafed through and is shorting
> intermittantly to ground. Adding lights to the circuit (like driving
> lights that are wired directly to the headlight circuit) could also be a
> cause.
>
> Most corroded connections increase the circuit resistance and won't trip
> the breaker. The exception is the connection at the breaker: Corrosion
> here causes extra heat and fools the breaker into thinking it is
> overloaded.

That's the story, little bit too long. Sorry for bad English.

Davey

Davey

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0404051013440.13664@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> OK, so it is time for you to give us more information, Davey.
>
> You said that you had already replaced the headlight switch and
> the dimmer switch, did the problem appear before or after you did this (if
> before, why did you replace those parts)?

Ok, I'll explain everything like it was. First it started one month ago when
I was about 300 km far from home in another city. In the evening I felt
strange smell inside a car, first I couldn't recognize what and where but
one hour later my headlights just extinguished (only low beam, parking was
still there). So I moved the switch in and out lights came back but not for
long. This evening was a nightmare to drive home 300 km on uknown road with
lights which can fall in any moment. Tomorrow, my friend who had XJ '88 told
me that he had problem with headlight switch on his Jeep and after
installing a new one everything was OK (but he also told me that he changed
three of them, three times). So I ordered a new one from 4WD Hardware and
they sent me dimmer switch also. In meantime, I disassembled my headlight
switch and found burned contact inside and male connection for headlights
(on switch) was wobbling. I assembled it again with some screws till new one
comes.
Later on, I installed a new one... Jack or connection for switch was melted
so I removed it completely and just connected directly on. I was so happy
that my problems have finally finished till next evening when lights started
blinking again(not flickering like I said before, sorry about my English but
I'm not from USA as you see). I studied Haynes again and thought, maybe
dimmer switch... installed a new one and again same thing, maybe relay...
put a new one, same.
All the time I notice that switch gets hot, especially old one on place
where is the rheostat for instrument lights dimmer and of course, tan wire
for headlights.
Under the hood I found this wire mesh strap just hanging from firewall (!)
so I connected it on intake manifold, later Mike told me it goes on last
bolt on head and I found this but I think it can stay on manifold also. Just
under the bolt which holds fuel rail. I looked around and found three ground
connections on left inner fender which I slacked off and tightened again.
All connections near left headlight i dismantled and sprayed with WD40.
Same evening I was driving around and nothing strange happened with
headlights, so happy, I sent reply on my post here that everything is fine
but tomorrow (means yesterday evening) ---- again.


> Mike has asked you a couple of times if you've got standard or
> aftermarket lamps installed as headlights. The answer is important, some
> aftermarket lamps pull far too much power.
I will remove headlights again to see, but here in Europe we don't have
headlights where bulbs are molded (I mean where bulb is a headlight complete
like I had on my Chevy Caprice Classic '83). Tomorrow I 'll check bulbs
again.

> Did you do anything else electrical to the Jeep before this
> started?
Yes, connected power for moving my seat on alternate connection because
seats stopped working due to corroded wire under the carpet.

> Do the headlights *flicker* or do they *blink*? Do they both do
> it at the same time? Flickering suggests a bad connection someplace,
> blinking (especially with a ticking noise behind the dash) suggest that
> the headlight breaker is tripping.
They blink, not flicker, sorry for misunderstanding, just going off and on
in second or two. After waiting about ten seconds I have lights back fot
longer period. Both lights go off and on in same time. Ticking noise is
coming from relay under the dash.
> Headlight breakers are just a thermal
> switch, not unlike a signal flasher, made of a bimetal strip and a pair of
> contacts: If you pull more power than the rating it heats up, the bimetal
> strip bends away and opens the contacts. When it cools down it bends back
> and closes the contacts. Close, hot, blink. Close, hot, blink. Close,
> hot, blink. Extra-bright aftermarket lights can pull more power than the
> breaker's rating, so can a wire that has chafed through and is shorting
> intermittantly to ground. Adding lights to the circuit (like driving
> lights that are wired directly to the headlight circuit) could also be a
> cause.
>
> Most corroded connections increase the circuit resistance and won't trip
> the breaker. The exception is the connection at the breaker: Corrosion
> here causes extra heat and fools the breaker into thinking it is
> overloaded.

That's the story, little bit too long. Sorry for bad English.

Davey

Davey

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:Pine.NEB.4.58.0404051013440.13664@panix2.pani x.com...
>
> OK, so it is time for you to give us more information, Davey.
>
> You said that you had already replaced the headlight switch and
> the dimmer switch, did the problem appear before or after you did this (if
> before, why did you replace those parts)?

Ok, I'll explain everything like it was. First it started one month ago when
I was about 300 km far from home in another city. In the evening I felt
strange smell inside a car, first I couldn't recognize what and where but
one hour later my headlights just extinguished (only low beam, parking was
still there). So I moved the switch in and out lights came back but not for
long. This evening was a nightmare to drive home 300 km on uknown road with
lights which can fall in any moment. Tomorrow, my friend who had XJ '88 told
me that he had problem with headlight switch on his Jeep and after
installing a new one everything was OK (but he also told me that he changed
three of them, three times). So I ordered a new one from 4WD Hardware and
they sent me dimmer switch also. In meantime, I disassembled my headlight
switch and found burned contact inside and male connection for headlights
(on switch) was wobbling. I assembled it again with some screws till new one
comes.
Later on, I installed a new one... Jack or connection for switch was melted
so I removed it completely and just connected directly on. I was so happy
that my problems have finally finished till next evening when lights started
blinking again(not flickering like I said before, sorry about my English but
I'm not from USA as you see). I studied Haynes again and thought, maybe
dimmer switch... installed a new one and again same thing, maybe relay...
put a new one, same.
All the time I notice that switch gets hot, especially old one on place
where is the rheostat for instrument lights dimmer and of course, tan wire
for headlights.
Under the hood I found this wire mesh strap just hanging from firewall (!)
so I connected it on intake manifold, later Mike told me it goes on last
bolt on head and I found this but I think it can stay on manifold also. Just
under the bolt which holds fuel rail. I looked around and found three ground
connections on left inner fender which I slacked off and tightened again.
All connections near left headlight i dismantled and sprayed with WD40.
Same evening I was driving around and nothing strange happened with
headlights, so happy, I sent reply on my post here that everything is fine
but tomorrow (means yesterday evening) ---- again.


> Mike has asked you a couple of times if you've got standard or
> aftermarket lamps installed as headlights. The answer is important, some
> aftermarket lamps pull far too much power.
I will remove headlights again to see, but here in Europe we don't have
headlights where bulbs are molded (I mean where bulb is a headlight complete
like I had on my Chevy Caprice Classic '83). Tomorrow I 'll check bulbs
again.

> Did you do anything else electrical to the Jeep before this
> started?
Yes, connected power for moving my seat on alternate connection because
seats stopped working due to corroded wire under the carpet.

> Do the headlights *flicker* or do they *blink*? Do they both do
> it at the same time? Flickering suggests a bad connection someplace,
> blinking (especially with a ticking noise behind the dash) suggest that
> the headlight breaker is tripping.
They blink, not flicker, sorry for misunderstanding, just going off and on
in second or two. After waiting about ten seconds I have lights back fot
longer period. Both lights go off and on in same time. Ticking noise is
coming from relay under the dash.
> Headlight breakers are just a thermal
> switch, not unlike a signal flasher, made of a bimetal strip and a pair of
> contacts: If you pull more power than the rating it heats up, the bimetal
> strip bends away and opens the contacts. When it cools down it bends back
> and closes the contacts. Close, hot, blink. Close, hot, blink. Close,
> hot, blink. Extra-bright aftermarket lights can pull more power than the
> breaker's rating, so can a wire that has chafed through and is shorting
> intermittantly to ground. Adding lights to the circuit (like driving
> lights that are wired directly to the headlight circuit) could also be a
> cause.
>
> Most corroded connections increase the circuit resistance and won't trip
> the breaker. The exception is the connection at the breaker: Corrosion
> here causes extra heat and fools the breaker into thinking it is
> overloaded.

That's the story, little bit too long. Sorry for bad English.

Davey