grease boots
04-18-2005, 11:27 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
04-19-2005, 08:45 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
I have a brand new drag link bar, that $120.00 sucker and the boot is
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 08:45 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
I have a brand new drag link bar, that $120.00 sucker and the boot is
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 08:45 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
I have a brand new drag link bar, that $120.00 sucker and the boot is
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 08:45 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
I have a brand new drag link bar, that $120.00 sucker and the boot is
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
just plain gone already. I have a spare boot but I just grease it
before every run and leave it alone rather than taking a chance on
wrecking the damn thing. I would only use a hammer on the backed off
nut to remove it, not a puller, but even so....
Mike
Dennis *** wrote:
>
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded so
> it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link into
> the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not threaded. I
> would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
> > Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> > that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
> >> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
> >>
> >> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
> >> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
> >> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
> >>
> >> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
> >> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
> >> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 11:46 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
It isn't a local parts vendors, but Quadratec, for one, sells `em:
<http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?SKW=16058&HKW=TIE+ROD+BOOT&PAGLEN=10& FNM=00&UID=2005041911323926>
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>>'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>>'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 11:46 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
It isn't a local parts vendors, but Quadratec, for one, sells `em:
<http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?SKW=16058&HKW=TIE+ROD+BOOT&PAGLEN=10& FNM=00&UID=2005041911323926>
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>>'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>>'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 11:46 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
It isn't a local parts vendors, but Quadratec, for one, sells `em:
<http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?SKW=16058&HKW=TIE+ROD+BOOT&PAGLEN=10& FNM=00&UID=2005041911323926>
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>>'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>>'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 11:46 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
It isn't a local parts vendors, but Quadratec, for one, sells `em:
<http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?SKW=16058&HKW=TIE+ROD+BOOT&PAGLEN=10& FNM=00&UID=2005041911323926>
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
>>That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>
>>'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>
>>'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
04-19-2005, 10:12 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: grease boots
Yes, the one connected to the tie rod is fairly easy to get out (and I have
57k miles on my TJ). I took mine out thinking it was a problem that it
wasn't. Just placed a hammer flat against one side of the drag link and
used another to tap the top. Since the end is "pressed" in, it'll loosen up
after a few taps. Then I lightly tapped the end of the threaded part and it
came right out. Since I couldn't actually remove it from the tie rod
itself, it reinstalled it.
Eric
99 TJ SE
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
57k miles on my TJ). I took mine out thinking it was a problem that it
wasn't. Just placed a hammer flat against one side of the drag link and
used another to tap the top. Since the end is "pressed" in, it'll loosen up
after a few taps. Then I lightly tapped the end of the threaded part and it
came right out. Since I couldn't actually remove it from the tie rod
itself, it reinstalled it.
Eric
99 TJ SE
"Dennis ***" <denniscox45remove@removecomcast.net> wrote in message
news:AcqdnVdLheup__nfRVn-jQ@comcast.com...
> Ok, the end of the drag link that is connected to the tie rod is threaded
> so it looks like I could remove/replace it, but the end of the drag link
> into the steering knuckle (I think that is what it is called) is not
> threaded. I would either need to replace the boot or get a new drag link.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:426415CA.3A598FEF@***.net...
>> Plus, as of about twenty years ago I haven't found a parts store
>> that will just sell you the ten cent boot, without the tie rod end.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>> That won't work usually. 'Very' seldom you can remove a tie rod end
>>> without damaging the internal plastic parts.
>>>
>>> 'Normally you just put more grease in. If they are those stupid
>>> 'lifetime' ones, then you can get a needle fitting for the grease gun
>>> and try filling it through he hole torn in the boot.
>>>
>>> 'Usually' when the boot it torn, it means the joint has flexed past it's
>>> 'normal' movement which means it is worn out and about to fail. If the
>>> joint has any up and down movement it is time for a new one.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>