Jerry Slaughter did pass the time by typing:
> "Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
> news:_9SdnQCYQu1GKTPZnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> I was googling the groups as of late, trying to figure out how to get my
>> fender flares black again. I saw the posts about using a heat gun, and
>> with
>> a little hesitation tried it out.
>>
>> Wow! I'm a believer now. Whoever came up with the idea.. I'll buy ya a
>> beer sometime ;)
>>
>
> I painted mine with the krylon paint made for plastic. Can't remember the
> exact name. Used mineral spirits to clean them up real good first. Look like
> new. Did this about a year ago and they still look great. No fading or
> cracking.

Krylon fusion

It works equally as well on interior trim.

I tested a spot on the mudflap of my ZJ. Spot's still there
under the dirt. I'm sold on it.

--
rbg

 

Jerry Slaughter did pass the time by typing:
> "Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
> news:_9SdnQCYQu1GKTPZnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> I was googling the groups as of late, trying to figure out how to get my
>> fender flares black again. I saw the posts about using a heat gun, and
>> with
>> a little hesitation tried it out.
>>
>> Wow! I'm a believer now. Whoever came up with the idea.. I'll buy ya a
>> beer sometime ;)
>>
>
> I painted mine with the krylon paint made for plastic. Can't remember the
> exact name. Used mineral spirits to clean them up real good first. Look like
> new. Did this about a year ago and they still look great. No fading or
> cracking.

Krylon fusion

It works equally as well on interior trim.

I tested a spot on the mudflap of my ZJ. Spot's still there
under the dirt. I'm sold on it.

--
rbg

 

Jerry Slaughter did pass the time by typing:
> "Diezmon" <notmyrealemail@fakeemail.com> wrote in message
> news:_9SdnQCYQu1GKTPZnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> I was googling the groups as of late, trying to figure out how to get my
>> fender flares black again. I saw the posts about using a heat gun, and
>> with
>> a little hesitation tried it out.
>>
>> Wow! I'm a believer now. Whoever came up with the idea.. I'll buy ya a
>> beer sometime ;)
>>
>
> I painted mine with the krylon paint made for plastic. Can't remember the
> exact name. Used mineral spirits to clean them up real good first. Look like
> new. Did this about a year ago and they still look great. No fading or
> cracking.

Krylon fusion

It works equally as well on interior trim.

I tested a spot on the mudflap of my ZJ. Spot's still there
under the dirt. I'm sold on it.

--
rbg

 

Kate (please ask) wrote:
> Good post!
>
> They do look darker.
> Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>> Kate

KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

 

Kate (please ask) wrote:
> Good post!
>
> They do look darker.
> Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>> Kate

KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

 

Kate (please ask) wrote:
> Good post!
>
> They do look darker.
> Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>> Kate

KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

 

baldeeagle1@aol.com SHOUTED:

> Kate (please ask) wrote:
>
>>Good post!
>>
>>They do look darker.
>>Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>>
>>>Kate
>
>
> KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
> PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
> CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
> LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
> RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
> ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

Owwwww, my EARS! Please, no shouting.

Depends on how bad they are Kate....

If really bad, you'll want really really fine wet sandpaper, 1600 grit
or similar. Diamond paper is even better but a bit harder to find
unless you have lapidary or plastic sculpturing supplies around.
Tape off the area around the light with at least two good layers of tape
so you don't accidentally scour anything. Keep that paper wet and wipe
the abrasive side frequently so it cannot pick up debris and scratch the
plastic.

When the cloudy layer is totally removed, carefully switch to a fine tin
oxide [messy white] or rouge [messy red] on a heavy sweat shirt and buff
any major visible sandpaper marks out.

Then polish with an optical PLASTIC polish. Easiest one to get ahold of
is Meguiars PlastX You can use their power ball or a REALLY soft
backing on a conventional polishing pad. You might be able to do the
entire job with just PlastX if you have lotsa patience or the lights
aren't that bad.

I then use a really fine lapidary polish on a soft felt lapidary
polisher, but that is now taking you into the range of eye glasses or
telescope mirrors.

Best to coat the lens with a good plastic protection afterwards and
renew it every wax job. Works like a charm, also works on rear lenses,
parking light lenses, and your neighbor's cheapo plastic windows.

 

baldeeagle1@aol.com SHOUTED:

> Kate (please ask) wrote:
>
>>Good post!
>>
>>They do look darker.
>>Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>>
>>>Kate
>
>
> KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
> PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
> CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
> LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
> RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
> ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

Owwwww, my EARS! Please, no shouting.

Depends on how bad they are Kate....

If really bad, you'll want really really fine wet sandpaper, 1600 grit
or similar. Diamond paper is even better but a bit harder to find
unless you have lapidary or plastic sculpturing supplies around.
Tape off the area around the light with at least two good layers of tape
so you don't accidentally scour anything. Keep that paper wet and wipe
the abrasive side frequently so it cannot pick up debris and scratch the
plastic.

When the cloudy layer is totally removed, carefully switch to a fine tin
oxide [messy white] or rouge [messy red] on a heavy sweat shirt and buff
any major visible sandpaper marks out.

Then polish with an optical PLASTIC polish. Easiest one to get ahold of
is Meguiars PlastX You can use their power ball or a REALLY soft
backing on a conventional polishing pad. You might be able to do the
entire job with just PlastX if you have lotsa patience or the lights
aren't that bad.

I then use a really fine lapidary polish on a soft felt lapidary
polisher, but that is now taking you into the range of eye glasses or
telescope mirrors.

Best to coat the lens with a good plastic protection afterwards and
renew it every wax job. Works like a charm, also works on rear lenses,
parking light lenses, and your neighbor's cheapo plastic windows.

 

baldeeagle1@aol.com SHOUTED:

> Kate (please ask) wrote:
>
>>Good post!
>>
>>They do look darker.
>>Hmmmmm I wonder if that would work on the Ford cataract headlights.
>>
>>>Kate
>
>
> KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
> PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
> CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
> LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
> RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
> ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.

Owwwww, my EARS! Please, no shouting.

Depends on how bad they are Kate....

If really bad, you'll want really really fine wet sandpaper, 1600 grit
or similar. Diamond paper is even better but a bit harder to find
unless you have lapidary or plastic sculpturing supplies around.
Tape off the area around the light with at least two good layers of tape
so you don't accidentally scour anything. Keep that paper wet and wipe
the abrasive side frequently so it cannot pick up debris and scratch the
plastic.

When the cloudy layer is totally removed, carefully switch to a fine tin
oxide [messy white] or rouge [messy red] on a heavy sweat shirt and buff
any major visible sandpaper marks out.

Then polish with an optical PLASTIC polish. Easiest one to get ahold of
is Meguiars PlastX You can use their power ball or a REALLY soft
backing on a conventional polishing pad. You might be able to do the
entire job with just PlastX if you have lotsa patience or the lights
aren't that bad.

I then use a really fine lapidary polish on a soft felt lapidary
polisher, but that is now taking you into the range of eye glasses or
telescope mirrors.

Best to coat the lens with a good plastic protection afterwards and
renew it every wax job. Works like a charm, also works on rear lenses,
parking light lenses, and your neighbor's cheapo plastic windows.

 

> KATE, TRY GOOD OLD RUBBING COMPOUND ON A LAMBS BUFFER PAD ON YOUR FORD
> PLASTIC LENS. aLSO, PERMATEX MAKES A $10 CONSUMER PRODUCT FOR
> CONDITONING THAT PLASTIC LENS. LASTLY, TRY FINGER POLISH THE PLASTIC
> LENS WITH WENOL POLISH WHICH COMES IN A TUBE....SEARCH FOR A LOCAL
> RETAILER ON THE INTERNET FOR YOUR TOWN.
> ALL DO GOOD AT "CLEARING" the yellowing and fogging. Good luck.
>

The old standby was to rub them down with acetone-free nail polish remover.