I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
complete.

Randall Brink

 

I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
complete.

Randall Brink

 

I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
complete.

Randall Brink

 

The way I make a foolproof splice is to first cut the wires to the
proper length, leaving about 3/4" extra so they overlap, Strip each
wire 3/4". Slip a piece of shrink sleeving over one of the wires.
Make it about 1-1/2" long. Then overlap the wires and twist them
around each other until they are mechanically tight. You never use
solder for a mechanical connection. Flow solder over the wires by
heating the joint from below, and flow the solder on the top until it
melts completely into the wires. Let cool. Move the shrink sleeving
over the joint and heat with a hair dryer or ? After all the wires
are done, wrap over all the joints with a good quality of plastic
electrical tape with at least two wraps. More if the wires will be
subjected to abrasion. Remember to stagger the joints so you don't
end up with a big lump in one place.

----

On 3 Dec 2005 18:50:14 -0800, "randallbrink@adelphia.net"
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote:

>I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
>have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
>complete.
>
>Randall Brink

 

The way I make a foolproof splice is to first cut the wires to the
proper length, leaving about 3/4" extra so they overlap, Strip each
wire 3/4". Slip a piece of shrink sleeving over one of the wires.
Make it about 1-1/2" long. Then overlap the wires and twist them
around each other until they are mechanically tight. You never use
solder for a mechanical connection. Flow solder over the wires by
heating the joint from below, and flow the solder on the top until it
melts completely into the wires. Let cool. Move the shrink sleeving
over the joint and heat with a hair dryer or ? After all the wires
are done, wrap over all the joints with a good quality of plastic
electrical tape with at least two wraps. More if the wires will be
subjected to abrasion. Remember to stagger the joints so you don't
end up with a big lump in one place.

----

On 3 Dec 2005 18:50:14 -0800, "randallbrink@adelphia.net"
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote:

>I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
>have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
>complete.
>
>Randall Brink

 

The way I make a foolproof splice is to first cut the wires to the
proper length, leaving about 3/4" extra so they overlap, Strip each
wire 3/4". Slip a piece of shrink sleeving over one of the wires.
Make it about 1-1/2" long. Then overlap the wires and twist them
around each other until they are mechanically tight. You never use
solder for a mechanical connection. Flow solder over the wires by
heating the joint from below, and flow the solder on the top until it
melts completely into the wires. Let cool. Move the shrink sleeving
over the joint and heat with a hair dryer or ? After all the wires
are done, wrap over all the joints with a good quality of plastic
electrical tape with at least two wraps. More if the wires will be
subjected to abrasion. Remember to stagger the joints so you don't
end up with a big lump in one place.

----

On 3 Dec 2005 18:50:14 -0800, "randallbrink@adelphia.net"
<randallbrink@adelphia.net> wrote:

>I think my soldered splice may have failed, which is why I now do not
>have headlights after the splicing of all of the block switches is
>complete.
>
>Randall Brink