Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
>
> I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.

Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
plastic sides, fully welded.

--
DougW

 

Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
>
> I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.

Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
plastic sides, fully welded.

--
DougW

 

Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
>
> I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.

Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
plastic sides, fully welded.

--
DougW

 

If you paint it when new, the paint will help with the corrosion, but not
much. :(

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:45189C32.80D4EF5D@***.net...
> Hi Marcel,
> Prices at: http://radiator.com
> OEM is what you have, and is adequate, unless you tow a trailer, or
> do low speed crawling
> I use free radiators via the first warranty, about every eight
> years from Pep Boys. Outside fins corrode off because of the salt air
> where the bikinis are.
> Takes the minimum of tools and one "O" ring release tool if one of
> the transmission cooling lines leak after changing.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> maleemi wrote:
> >
> > The radiator in my '96 zj 6cyl larado (130k miles) had developed a leak.
> > My mechanic says the core is shot and wants $500 to replace it with a
> > new OEM part. I'm thinking of doing the job myself but I want to put in
> > a quality part. Are there any aftermarket radiators that will give
> > reliable service and save me some $$$ or is the OEM part the best way to
go.
> >
> > Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Marcel

 

If you paint it when new, the paint will help with the corrosion, but not
much. :(

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:45189C32.80D4EF5D@***.net...
> Hi Marcel,
> Prices at: http://radiator.com
> OEM is what you have, and is adequate, unless you tow a trailer, or
> do low speed crawling
> I use free radiators via the first warranty, about every eight
> years from Pep Boys. Outside fins corrode off because of the salt air
> where the bikinis are.
> Takes the minimum of tools and one "O" ring release tool if one of
> the transmission cooling lines leak after changing.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> maleemi wrote:
> >
> > The radiator in my '96 zj 6cyl larado (130k miles) had developed a leak.
> > My mechanic says the core is shot and wants $500 to replace it with a
> > new OEM part. I'm thinking of doing the job myself but I want to put in
> > a quality part. Are there any aftermarket radiators that will give
> > reliable service and save me some $$$ or is the OEM part the best way to
go.
> >
> > Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Marcel

 

If you paint it when new, the paint will help with the corrosion, but not
much. :(

Earle

"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:45189C32.80D4EF5D@***.net...
> Hi Marcel,
> Prices at: http://radiator.com
> OEM is what you have, and is adequate, unless you tow a trailer, or
> do low speed crawling
> I use free radiators via the first warranty, about every eight
> years from Pep Boys. Outside fins corrode off because of the salt air
> where the bikinis are.
> Takes the minimum of tools and one "O" ring release tool if one of
> the transmission cooling lines leak after changing.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> maleemi wrote:
> >
> > The radiator in my '96 zj 6cyl larado (130k miles) had developed a leak.
> > My mechanic says the core is shot and wants $500 to replace it with a
> > new OEM part. I'm thinking of doing the job myself but I want to put in
> > a quality part. Are there any aftermarket radiators that will give
> > reliable service and save me some $$$ or is the OEM part the best way to
go.
> >
> > Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Marcel

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> > I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> > between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
> >
> > I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> > hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.
>
> Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
> plastic sides, fully welded.
>
> --
> DougW

So how do you figure on mounting an aluminum radiator????

It would need all new hardware with rubber or plastic inserts to isolate
it totally from touching any steel parts. That included the steel bolts
holding it on.

If it touches steel, it will get a hole burned through it really fast
from electrolysis.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> > I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> > between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
> >
> > I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> > hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.
>
> Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
> plastic sides, fully welded.
>
> --
> DougW

So how do you figure on mounting an aluminum radiator????

It would need all new hardware with rubber or plastic inserts to isolate
it totally from touching any steel parts. That included the steel bolts
holding it on.

If it touches steel, it will get a hole burned through it really fast
from electrolysis.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

DougW wrote:
>
> Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> > I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> > between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
> >
> > I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> > hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.
>
> Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
> plastic sides, fully welded.
>
> --
> DougW

So how do you figure on mounting an aluminum radiator????

It would need all new hardware with rubber or plastic inserts to isolate
it totally from touching any steel parts. That included the steel bolts
holding it on.

If it touches steel, it will get a hole burned through it really fast
from electrolysis.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45192981.59CE1219@sympatico.ca...
> DougW wrote:
> >
> > Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
> > > I just checked Autozone's website and those radiators are selling for
> > > between $150 and $200 depending on warranty.
> > >
> > > I'd get one with a good warranty, flush out the engine and put on new
> > > hoses, belt, and maybe water pump while I had it apart.
> >
> > Check radiatorbarn.com and the all aluminum radiator. No crimp on
> > plastic sides, fully welded.
> >
> > --
> > DougW
>
> So how do you figure on mounting an aluminum radiator????
>
> It would need all new hardware with rubber or plastic inserts to isolate
> it totally from touching any steel parts. That included the steel bolts
> holding it on.
>
> If it touches steel, it will get a hole burned through it really fast
> from electrolysis.
>
Mike,

Not everyone lives in the rust belt. ;^) Otoh, lots of these guys like to
ford creeks, and aluminum (British sp. aluminium?) is excessively soft,
won't hold paint, and is a bear to solder.

Earle