Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
05-27-2004, 02:28 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
(23" hub to flare)
Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
flare)
I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
dogleg LCA's are installed)
.... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
Questions:
SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
-Brian
Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
(23" hub to flare)
Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
flare)
I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
dogleg LCA's are installed)
.... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
Questions:
SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
-Brian
05-27-2004, 04:22 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
i'm a notorious top-poster, but I'm going to answer your questions
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
05-27-2004, 04:22 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
i'm a notorious top-poster, but I'm going to answer your questions
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
05-27-2004, 04:22 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
i'm a notorious top-poster, but I'm going to answer your questions
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
05-27-2004, 04:22 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
i'm a notorious top-poster, but I'm going to answer your questions
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
individually ;)
"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:Vqqtc.185700$0qd.2601@twister01.bloor.is.net. cable.rogers.com...
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
>
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
>
> I was going to use 31x10.5 or 32x11.5 but now....
>
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case
drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
>
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
pretty much- you can either use RE's SYE and hack/tap the shaft yourself, or
pay more and have Tom Woods do it for you. There is no Heavy Duty SYE for
the 242 available.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I have 6" and 33" tires, and did some generous front fender trimming-
perhaps I went a little nuts with the die grinder :-D I also run TJ front
flares.
In the rear, I trimmed the stock flares up to the body line and flattened
the pinch seam.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
not positive here, but AFAIK, the driveshafts should be interchangeable.
The only problem you may have is the pinion snout on a D44 is a bit longer
than on a 35, so take that into account if/when you have a double cardan
driveshaft built. owrst case, you could have the shaft shortened at a later
date.
>
> Your help is appreciated and top posting is acceptable ;-)
> -Brian
>
>
I also wanted to mention, before you go to 33's and coil spacers... give the
rear leafs a couple of weeks to settle- you may lose an inch or more once
the leafs break in a bit. Have you regeard, or ar you planning to? 33's
and the 4.0L on stock gears is a dog- I have 4.56s and part of me wishes I
had gone with 4.88s!
Chuck
05-27-2004, 04:59 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
05-27-2004, 04:59 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
05-27-2004, 04:59 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
05-27-2004, 04:59 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
> Installed a Rusty's 4.5" kit with leaf packs on my XJ (4L,242,D35)
Hi Brian,
Congrats on the lift. I installed a RE 4.5" lift on my XJ last year so
maybe I can offer some tips.
> Rear: 6" over stock, gained about 10" over my old 'frowning' leaf packs.
> (23" hub to flare)
> Front: 5" over stock, gained about 6" over the old coils. (22.5" hub to
> flare)
Your rear springs will settle. Pack all your tools and gear in the back
and see how it sits.
> 1. definitely need SYE & DS (slip yoke is 1/2" on the spline, no t-case drop
> yet, 6* shims, stock shackles are vertical)
The SYE is certainly a good upgrade for any Jeep, but you don't
necessarily require it for vibrations. My rear still sits 5+" over stock
and I have no drive line vibes. I dropped the tcase xmember 3/4" and I
had to shim my D35 pinion down by 2*. Note though that my RE kit has
3.5" springs with 1.25" shackles so it gives a higher pinion angle. With
your taller springs and stock shackles you may have to aim the pinion up
to get it parallel with your tcase angle. If you can keep angle of the
shaft (relative to pinion and tcase output) down to about 15*, you
should be okay. Go to the hardware store and get on of these:
http://www.productsafet.com/images/angle-meter.jpg
You can get a long-travel slip yoke from RE. As well as having 5/8"
longer travel, its yoke arms will let the shaft drop much farther than a
stock yoke without binding on the ujoint. I thought I could live with
the reduced travel of my stock SY, so I just ground out the yoke armpits
to eliminate binding at full drop.
> 2. might need adjustable UCA's to correct caster angle vibes (new fixed
> dogleg LCA's are installed)
Perhaps. The fixed UCAs with my kit worked fine and left me with a
positive caster.
> ... I might as well throw in a 2" coil spacer to level out and run 33's.
>
> Questions:
> SYE for the 242 t-case - is the hack 'n' tap the only thing available?
Not sure. The biggest advantage of an AA or JBC SYE is the facility for
a longer shaft. Not such a big issue for the LWB XJ so hack'n tap should
be fine.
> For 33x10.5 will I need to trim?
Yes. I put 33x10.50R15 on stock wheels under my 4.5" lift. Required
pulling the inside wheel well liners, sawing off the leading part of the
front flares to line up with the top of the bumper, and snipping sheet
metal under the flares front and rear. Kept the stock flares. Very easy
to do.
The stock wheel spacing results in some slight rubbing on the inside
wells at full stuff. I'm living with it but I'll eventually get wheels
with more backspacing for a better fit.
Thought about gearing? If you're still stock, you may want to go with
the 31s.
> Can I reuse a custom driveshaft from a D35 if I upgrade to a D44?
Not sure. I recently installed a D44 (aside: unlike the D35, no shim
required for zero vibes with my SY). The stock drive shaft now fits
better (centres slip yoke travel) with the longer D44. My relative shaft
angle is a tad steeper, but still tolerable so my SYE/CV upgrade is
still low on the to-do list.
A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
the hard way.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
Steve
05-28-2004, 03:46 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Glad I waited to buy tires for the new lift... need some info
"Steve" <xjlifter@bogus.com> wrote in
:
: A few other crucial things that you should think about with the lift:
:
: 1. Steering box brace. Big lift and big tires on big rocks put big
: strain on the steering box. Install a brace and reinforcement plate
: before you pull the mount and damage your pseudo frame. I learned this
: the hard way.
:
: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSteeringBrace.htm
: http://jeepin.com/features/c_rok/index.asp
:
: 2. Rear bump stops. You'll probably need to extend your bump stops to
: prevent your springs from frowning at full stuff.
:
: http://jeepin.com/features/dpg_bumpstopplates/index.asp
:
: 3. A step stool so the wife can get in.
:
No stool samples...err...links?
