fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
01-22-2005, 04:10 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
01-22-2005, 04:10 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
01-22-2005, 04:10 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:14:43 UTC L.W.(ßill) ------ III
<----------@***.net> wrote:
> Hi David,
> Should only run for about five seconds, before it automatically
> shuts off, to protect us in an accident. Bring the it up to full
> pressure by turning the ignition on without starting, five, ten times,
> then trying to burn the air out of the system, then cycle it again.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > 97 Jeep Grande Cherokee Ladrado, 4.0 L straight 6 cyclinder with the
> > fuel pump in the tank.
> >
> > Does that help,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David
--
Will Honea
01-22-2005, 04:54 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
01-22-2005, 04:54 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
01-22-2005, 04:54 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
> My son has a 91 XJ and I had a problem with air in the fuel rail. The
> regulator and bypass are on the same end of the rail as the supply
> line so air has no place to go but thru the injectors. That can take
> a while to purge. Last time we were messing with his we let the pump
> come up to pressure then opened the schraeder valve on the other end
> of the rail to let the air out. Repeated 4-5 times until we got a
> clear stream of gas. That fixed the problem. My fuel pressure guage
> has a release button for flow rate tests that serves the purpose.
Or jack the front end up a little so the rail slopes up.
Actually when I did the header the fuel rail was off, and drained.
Didn't have any problem at all getting it started apart from a few
sputters as the rail cleared. Backed it down and stuck the front
up on a steep curb to get rid of the remainder.
--
DougW
01-25-2005, 03:31 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
01-25-2005, 03:31 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
01-25-2005, 03:31 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
>From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
air in the lines or something.
What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
But shoots gas out if pressed.
The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
out.
Thanks,
David
01-25-2005, 07:19 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: fuel pump replacement gone wrong...
quincy451@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:
> So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
> assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
> one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
> again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
> will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
The check valve prevents fuel from draining back into the tank so your
Jeep will start easier and there is less chance of air problems (stammering,
stuttering) when it's started. The check valve is easy to test with a simple
pressure gauge on the rail. Either it holds about 32psi for half an hour
or it drops to zero quickly)
>> From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
> harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
> just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
> air in the lines or something.
Possibly, don't discout the coil or other issues, check fuel pressure
and flow.
> What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
> pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
> thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
> But shoots gas out if pressed.
Correct. You found it.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-test-port.jpg
> The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
> bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
> alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
> out.
Before you go ripping things apart, check the fuel pressure and flow rate.
The fuel pressure can also drop quickly if the regulator is bad.
You check the regulator by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge, starting the
engine (32 psi should show) then pull the vac line from the regulator
(located on the front of the fuel rail). Pressure should go up a few pounds.
--
DougW
> So how important is the check value that goes into the fuel pump
> assembly? I can not find one anywhere. The dealer will only sell me
> one with there nifty $342 fuel pump to go with it. I am going to try
> again as suggested here, but the car is currently across town to it
> will be this weekend before the attempt is made.
The check valve prevents fuel from draining back into the tank so your
Jeep will start easier and there is less chance of air problems (stammering,
stuttering) when it's started. The check valve is easy to test with a simple
pressure gauge on the rail. Either it holds about 32psi for half an hour
or it drops to zero quickly)
>> From what I can gather the check valve not being there might make it
> harder to start at times, but at this point it starts up ok...it is
> just to keep it running which I think like those on here is a bunch of
> air in the lines or something.
Possibly, don't discout the coil or other issues, check fuel pressure
and flow.
> What is the schraeder valve? Is that where you release the fuel
> pressure at the fuel injectors or something else. The valve I am
> thinking of has a cap on it and is about like the valve in a bike tire.
> But shoots gas out if pressed.
Correct. You found it.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...-test-port.jpg
> The guy I am working with is thinking of taking the washer out at the
> bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I don't think that would hurt but
> alot of work to get one washer out. The tank would have to come back
> out.
Before you go ripping things apart, check the fuel pressure and flow rate.
The fuel pressure can also drop quickly if the regulator is bad.
You check the regulator by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge, starting the
engine (32 psi should show) then pull the vac line from the regulator
(located on the front of the fuel rail). Pressure should go up a few pounds.
--
DougW