Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Steve G wrote:
>
> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
> passing on what I'd been told/read.
> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
L.W. (ßill) ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
> I prefer solder, and never seen a connection wiggle back and forth
> enough to break, although I would feather it with heat shrink. Auto
> manufacturers are both crimped and soldered, try to take one apart to
> save. I've fixed too many bad crimped connections. I realize that was
> the fault of the installer. Please don't take this as a flame, like
> yours it is also just an opinion. Back by sixty years of experience.
A good discussion is hardly a flame.
Here is the deal. Solder itself (lead/tin) is generally a lousy conductor
(except for silver based solder). Its primary job is to keep a mechanical
connection sound and free of corrosion. Your typical el-cheapo crimp/splice
can put a tremendous amount of stress on the connection point, even to the
point of partially cutting/smashing the conductors. Especially if one is
from the (crush it till it don't give) school. MIL-SPEC splicing uses a
preset crimp tool for exact crimp pressure. Solder splices do indeed cause
two spots for mechanical failure, but that failure point is no weaker than
the surrounding metal providing the mechanical mode of failure is addressed.
Hence the use of heat-shrink or wire loom.
Connections are crimped at the factory because soldering takes too long,
produces hazardous fumes, and is dangerous due to the burn risk. Lead
and fumes also make soldering a regulatory nightmare. Ever wonder why
wires are tucked so close to the engine. That's because it's easier to
install in a moving chassis.
> Steve G wrote:
>>
>> I've read numerous times and tend to believe (based on my own personal
>> experience) that it is best to not solder splices and connections that are
>> subject to the vibrations of an engine/vehicle. The solder creates a ridgid
>> point in the wire and increases the chance of it fracturing next to the
>> solder instead of flexing. As well, the heat applied to the wire may be
>> causing it to become more brittle. Apparently that's why even the most
>> sensitive and critical automotive and marine connections are in crimped
>> from the factory and you seldom see a soldered factory joint. I have
>> actually seen wires broken next to a soldered joint. Don't flame this, just
>> passing on what I'd been told/read.
>> Steve G.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
In article <Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01>,
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
In article <Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01>,
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
In article <Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01>,
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
In article <Ofhmc.24002$Z%5.19371@okepread01>,
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
post.replies@invalid.address says...
> Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I just recently bought the above mentioned vehicle from a friend with
> > the wiring problem made clear at time of purchase. The jeep runs fine
> > 99% of the time but every once in a while I need to jiggle one of the
> > wires that connects to one of the injectors. The injector wire in
> > question had been wrapped with electrical tape by the previous owner.
> > The only time this problem comes into play is when starting it, once
> > you're up and running it's fine. My question is what would be the best
> > way to fix this? Is there a sub harness for the fuel injection, and if
> > so how much should I expect to pay? I got a really good deal on this
> > jeep so I'm not afraid to spend a few bux to make it right. Any info
> > will be greatly appreciated.
>
> No such subharness that isn't $$$. I'd take the tape off and find
> out what is there. It might be the last person just twisted wires
> together and taped them. (a bad repair) If you need a new connector
> NAPA should have them.
>
> If it's just a broken wire and connector they can be repaired if your
> somewhat comfy with a soldering iron.
>
> http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html
>
> The connector can be dissasembled but it can be tricky. Redoing the
> female connector takes patience and a bit of luck but it can be done.
>
>
>
Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Josh
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel injection wiring problem with 89 cherokee 4.0L
Josh Mills did pass the time by typing:
> Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
> shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
> comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
> it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
> if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
> good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
> myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
> my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
> maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Not a problem.
If you have a multimeter it might be worth your while to ohm out the harness
back to the ECU. Having a service manual will help. All I have here
is the 93 ZJ book or I'd give you the wires/pins. Generally the injectors
get power from the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay and ground through the ECU.
If you measure each injector for resistance it should be about 15 Ohms +-2 Ohms.
--
DougW
> Thanks Doug, I'm quite handy with a soldering iron, and I know how to
> shrink wrap so I guess I'll give it a shot on Sat. I guess if worse
> comes to worse I'll just have to buy a new injector connector and solder
> it to the blue and white wires on the harness. That would only be needed
> if there is internal damage to the connector though I'm guessing. I'm
> good with electronics in general so I guess I'd be foolish to not try
> myself before consulting a "pro". BTW I really like my Jeep so far, it's
> my first one. I've enjoyed reading some of the posts on this group,
> maybe I'll get some good ideas on how to improve my Jeeping experience.
Not a problem.
If you have a multimeter it might be worth your while to ohm out the harness
back to the ECU. Having a service manual will help. All I have here
is the 93 ZJ book or I'd give you the wires/pins. Generally the injectors
get power from the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay and ground through the ECU.
If you measure each injector for resistance it should be about 15 Ohms +-2 Ohms.
--
DougW
