Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
The one lungers are pretty good about accepting most any fuel once they
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
The one lungers are pretty good about accepting most any fuel once they
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
The one lungers are pretty good about accepting most any fuel once they
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
are running. But they can be real stinkers to get started on old fuel.
My general definition of old fuel is: high performance 3 months max,
automobile with FI, 6 months, older vehicles, tractors, and small
engines- 12 months. Using a stabilzier will double that. Keep a can of
starting ether nearby.
The best bet is to figure out some sort of fuel rotation. Drain the tank
on the generator, start it up and run all the fuel out of the carb. Fill
a couple of 5 fallon cans with fresh fuel. Every 6 months, pour the
fuel in your oldest vehicle. Better yet, pour it into the tank of the
kid down the street with his old beater. Replace with fresh fuel.
Jay Pique wrote:
> My folks have a gas powered generator that they've never used, but have
> on hand in case the power goes out and the basement starts to flood.
>
> I just fueled it up and added some stabilizer, as god knows how long it
> could be before it gets used. My question is this - how long can
> stabilized gas sit before it too goes bad? (And what does "bad" mean
> anyhow?)
>
> Thanks all.
> JP
> *******************
> My Jeep is rusting.
>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
gum/varnish, etc.
In article <1123460730.765373.275310@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups .com>, Jay
Pique <JayPique@hotmail.com> wrote:
> They probably wouldn't run it 24/7. At night they'd shut it down I'm
> sure. We probably haven't had a 4 day outage in years. Last time it
> was an ice storm that wreaked havoc for weeks in some spots.
>
> Thanks for the info.
> JP
>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
That is an absolutely a must for two cycle engines and their reed
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
That is an absolutely a must for two cycle engines and their reed
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Fuel gas tablizer & Generator maintenance
That is an absolutely a must for two cycle engines and their reed
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc
valve, such as a chain saw.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Rich Hampel wrote:
>
> Even with stabilizer its best to run the engine dry so that you dont
> get any gum and varnish drop-out in the carburator passages. If you
> dont want to run the engine dry then consider to put a drain ---- on
> the carburator bowl to make it easier to remove the gasoline. A yearly
> maintenance of a carburator flush with isopropyl alcohol will ensure
> that all the gums and varnishes are gone.
> 24 months is about the best you can get out of stabilized gasoline,
> less if you have any *copper or brass* components or tubing, etc.
> Check the carburator and replace ALL brass/copper parts with nickle
> plated or stainless .... dont know what do with brass jets, except to
> wash out with isopropyl every so often. Stored fuels 'react' with
> copper and copper bearing alloys ... its a catalyst for 'drop-outs' of
> gum/varnish, etc