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Frozen Doors TJ
hi guys,
I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when it drops below freezing does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this thanks Jeff IN Frozen Canada |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so
I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You could have a similar problem. Good luck, Earle "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > > thanks > Jeff > > IN Frozen Canada -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so
I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You could have a similar problem. Good luck, Earle "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > > thanks > Jeff > > IN Frozen Canada -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Sailor_Jeff wrote:
> hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this The dirt/crud/lube is freezing up. Your going to have to clean them out and lube with a silicone lube that doesn't freeze. Quite a bit of work, you might be able to get some spray silicone lube and force it into the latch. Something like this. http://www.filmtools.com/silspraylubp.html http://www.instawares.com/silicone-l...0141wd.0.7.htm -- DougW |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Sailor_Jeff wrote:
> hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this The dirt/crud/lube is freezing up. Your going to have to clean them out and lube with a silicone lube that doesn't freeze. Quite a bit of work, you might be able to get some spray silicone lube and force it into the latch. Something like this. http://www.filmtools.com/silspraylubp.html http://www.instawares.com/silicone-l...0141wd.0.7.htm -- DougW |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease,
you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best multigrades into something about as thick as Vaseline. Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use a penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure synth multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which you could probably substitute refined kerosene for. Earle Horton wrote: > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You > could have a similar problem. > > Good luck, > > Earle > > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> hi guys, >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when >> it drops below freezing >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> thanks >> Jeff >> >> IN Frozen Canada > > > |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease,
you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best multigrades into something about as thick as Vaseline. Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use a penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure synth multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which you could probably substitute refined kerosene for. Earle Horton wrote: > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You > could have a similar problem. > > Good luck, > > Earle > > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> hi guys, >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when >> it drops below freezing >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> thanks >> Jeff >> >> IN Frozen Canada > > > |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew"
for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to it it was like molasses in January. Cheers, Earle "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, > you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. > In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best multigrades > into something about as thick as Vaseline. > > Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use a > penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even > more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > > The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure synth > multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which you > could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > > > Earle Horton wrote: > > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so > > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to > > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You > > could have a similar problem. > > > > Good luck, > > > > Earle > > > > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> hi guys, > >> > >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > >> it drops below freezing > >> > >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> > >> thanks > >> Jeff > >> > >> IN Frozen Canada > > > > > > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew"
for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to it it was like molasses in January. Cheers, Earle "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, > you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. > In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best multigrades > into something about as thick as Vaseline. > > Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use a > penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even > more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > > The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure synth > multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which you > could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > > > Earle Horton wrote: > > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed so > > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had to > > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. You > > could have a similar problem. > > > > Good luck, > > > > Earle > > > > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> hi guys, > >> > >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > >> it drops below freezing > >> > >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> > >> thanks > >> Jeff > >> > >> IN Frozen Canada > > > > > > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray wash,
especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under the work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area dry and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door lock you then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few days.... Earle Horton wrote: > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew" > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to > it it was like molasses in January. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > multigrades >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use > a >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > synth >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > you >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >> >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed > so >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had > to >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > You >> > could have a similar problem. >> > >> > Good luck, >> > >> > Earle >> > >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >> > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> >> hi guys, >> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > when >> >> it drops below freezing >> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> >> >> thanks >> >> Jeff >> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada >> > >> > >> > > > > -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray wash,
especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under the work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area dry and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door lock you then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few days.... Earle Horton wrote: > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew" > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to > it it was like molasses in January. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > multigrades >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use > a >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > synth >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > you >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >> >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed > so >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had > to >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > You >> > could have a similar problem. >> > >> > Good luck, >> > >> > Earle >> > >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >> > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> >> hi guys, >> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > when >> >> it drops below freezing >> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> >> >> thanks >> >> Jeff >> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada >> > >> > >> > > > > -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube
for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. Cheers, Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray wash, > especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under the > work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area dry > and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door lock you > then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few days.... > > Earle Horton wrote: > > > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew" > > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid > > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory > > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to > > it it was like molasses in January. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Earle > > > > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, > >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. > >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > > multigrades > >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. > >> > >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use > > a > >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even > >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > >> > >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > > synth > >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > > you > >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > >> > >> > >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed > > so > >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had > > to > >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > > You > >> > could have a similar problem. > >> > > >> > Good luck, > >> > > >> > Earle > >> > > >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > >> > > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> >> hi guys, > >> >> > >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > > when > >> >> it drops below freezing > >> >> > >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> >> > >> >> thanks > >> >> Jeff > >> >> > >> >> IN Frozen Canada > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > -- > Will Honea > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube
for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. Cheers, Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray wash, > especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under the > work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area dry > and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door lock you > then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few days.... > > Earle Horton wrote: > > > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar "brew" > > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission fluid > > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the factory > > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I got to > > it it was like molasses in January. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Earle > > > > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or grease, > >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient temperature. > >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > > multigrades > >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. > >> > >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just use > > a > >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease even > >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > >> > >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > > synth > >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > > you > >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > >> > >> > >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease congealed > > so > >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally had > > to > >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > > You > >> > could have a similar problem. > >> > > >> > Good luck, > >> > > >> > Earle > >> > > >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > >> > > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> >> hi guys, > >> >> > >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > > when > >> >> it drops below freezing > >> >> > >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> >> > >> >> thanks > >> >> Jeff > >> >> > >> >> IN Frozen Canada > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > -- > Will Honea > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > wash, >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > the >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > dry >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > lock you >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > days.... >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >>> It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > "brew" >>> for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > fluid >>> left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > factory >>> used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > got to >>> it it was like molasses in January. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Earle >>> >>> "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message >>> news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > grease, >>>> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > temperature. >>>> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best >>> multigrades >>>> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >>>> >>>> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > use >>> a >>>> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > even >>>> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >>>> >>>> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure >>> synth >>>> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which >>> you >>>> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >>>> >>>> >>>> Earle Horton wrote: >>>>> I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > congealed >>> so >>>>> I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > had >>> to >>>>> take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. >>> You >>>>> could have a similar problem. >>>>> >>>>> Good luck, >>>>> >>>>> Earle >>>>> >>>>> "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >>>>>> hi guys, >>>>>> >>>>>> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) >>> when >>>>>> it drops below freezing >>>>>> >>>>>> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >>>>>> >>>>>> thanks >>>>>> Jeff >>>>>> >>>>>> IN Frozen Canada >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >> -- >> Will Honea >> >> -- >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> > > > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to do it more than once. -- FRH |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > wash, >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > the >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > dry >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > lock you >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > days.... >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >>> It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > "brew" >>> for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > fluid >>> left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > factory >>> used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > got to >>> it it was like molasses in January. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Earle >>> >>> "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message >>> news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >>>> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > grease, >>>> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > temperature. >>>> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best >>> multigrades >>>> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >>>> >>>> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > use >>> a >>>> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > even >>>> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >>>> >>>> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure >>> synth >>>> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which >>> you >>>> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >>>> >>>> >>>> Earle Horton wrote: >>>>> I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > congealed >>> so >>>>> I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > had >>> to >>>>> take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. >>> You >>>>> could have a similar problem. >>>>> >>>>> Good luck, >>>>> >>>>> Earle >>>>> >>>>> "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >>>>> > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >>>>>> hi guys, >>>>>> >>>>>> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) >>> when >>>>>> it drops below freezing >>>>>> >>>>>> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >>>>>> >>>>>> thanks >>>>>> Jeff >>>>>> >>>>>> IN Frozen Canada >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >> -- >> Will Honea >> >> -- >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> > > > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to do it more than once. -- FRH |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
"Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... .... > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And > in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter > (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. > Might have to do it more than once. > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. Cheers, Earle -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
"Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... .... > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And > in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter > (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. > Might have to do it more than once. > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. Cheers, Earle -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message > news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... > ... >> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And >> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. >> Might have to do it more than once. >> > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the > door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with > the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk > that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match > or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > > Ooops, disregard my previous post. :-) -- FRH |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message > news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... > ... >> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And >> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. >> Might have to do it more than once. >> > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the > door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with > the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk > that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match > or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > > Ooops, disregard my previous post. :-) -- FRH |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to > do it more than once. graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html -- DougW |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Frank_v7.0 wrote:
> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to > do it more than once. graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html -- DougW |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". What they
didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) Dave "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx... > Frank_v7.0 wrote: > > > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case > > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding > > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to > > do it more than once. > > graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease > for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :) > http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". What they
didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) Dave "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx... > Frank_v7.0 wrote: > > > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a > > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case > > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding > > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to > > do it more than once. > > graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease > for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :) > http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html > > -- > DougW > > |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Dave Milne wrote:
> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". > What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) > (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. > Dave > > "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx... >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in >>> case >>> of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >>> (holding >>> it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have >>> to >>> do it more than once. >> >> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium >> grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would >> too. >> :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html >> >> -- >> DougW -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Dave Milne wrote:
> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". > What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) > (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. > Dave > > "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message > news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx... >> Frank_v7.0 wrote: >> >>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in >>> case >>> of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >>> (holding >>> it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have >>> to >>> do it more than once. >> >> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium >> grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would >> too. >> :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html >> >> -- >> DougW -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Clean the latch mechanism with a suitable cleaner, then leave it dry.
WD40 makes a very crappy lubricant, and my guess is that your latch has seem ample doses of WD40 over the years. WD40 is a reasonably good cleaner, I suppose. It will disolve the gunk and crud that is beating you up, but it will dry and turn to goo, cauisng you to have problems again. If you use WD40 to clean the gunk and goo, then you need another product to remove the WD40. I do not think yo ucan clean the latch while it is still installed in the door, I would be opening the door to get the latch out, then clean the latch on your work bench. After it is thoroughly cleaned and dried, put it back in. I think your trouble is that you have ---- and crud built up inside the latch, and this mess freezes and keeps the latch from operating freely. I don't know what lubricant ought to be used, but going out on my limb, I'd suggest a good White Lithium grease that will not freeze. Having said that, I live in Southern California where we seldom see freezing temps, so what do I know? "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > > thanks > Jeff > > IN Frozen Canada |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Clean the latch mechanism with a suitable cleaner, then leave it dry.
WD40 makes a very crappy lubricant, and my guess is that your latch has seem ample doses of WD40 over the years. WD40 is a reasonably good cleaner, I suppose. It will disolve the gunk and crud that is beating you up, but it will dry and turn to goo, cauisng you to have problems again. If you use WD40 to clean the gunk and goo, then you need another product to remove the WD40. I do not think yo ucan clean the latch while it is still installed in the door, I would be opening the door to get the latch out, then clean the latch on your work bench. After it is thoroughly cleaned and dried, put it back in. I think your trouble is that you have ---- and crud built up inside the latch, and this mess freezes and keeps the latch from operating freely. I don't know what lubricant ought to be used, but going out on my limb, I'd suggest a good White Lithium grease that will not freeze. Having said that, I live in Southern California where we seldom see freezing temps, so what do I know? "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > hi guys, > > I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when > it drops below freezing > > does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > > thanks > Jeff > > IN Frozen Canada |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something
else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent wash job and not for it's lubrication properties. I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than most bicycle specific brands. Earle Horton wrote: > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > wash, >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > the >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > dry >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > lock you >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > days.... >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > "brew" >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > fluid >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > factory >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > got to >> > it it was like molasses in January. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Earle >> > >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > grease, >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > temperature. >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best >> > multigrades >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >> >> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > use >> > a >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > even >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >> >> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure >> > synth >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which >> > you >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >> >> >> >> >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > congealed >> > so >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > had >> > to >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. >> > You >> >> > could have a similar problem. >> >> > >> >> > Good luck, >> >> > >> >> > Earle >> >> > >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >> >> > >> > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> >> >> hi guys, >> >> >> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) >> > when >> >> >> it drops below freezing >> >> >> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> >> >> >> >> thanks >> >> >> Jeff >> >> >> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> -- >> Will Honea >> >> -- >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> > > > -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something
else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent wash job and not for it's lubrication properties. I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than most bicycle specific brands. Earle Horton wrote: > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > Cheers, > > Earle > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > wash, >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > the >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > dry >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > lock you >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > days.... >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > "brew" >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > fluid >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > factory >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > got to >> > it it was like molasses in January. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Earle >> > >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > grease, >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > temperature. >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best >> > multigrades >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. >> >> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > use >> > a >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > even >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. >> >> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure >> > synth >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which >> > you >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. >> >> >> >> >> >> Earle Horton wrote: >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > congealed >> > so >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > had >> > to >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. >> > You >> >> > could have a similar problem. >> >> > >> >> > Good luck, >> >> > >> >> > Earle >> >> > >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message >> >> > >> > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... >> >> >> hi guys, >> >> >> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) >> > when >> >> >> it drops below freezing >> >> >> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this >> >> >> >> >> >> thanks >> >> >> Jeff >> >> >> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> -- >> Will Honea >> >> -- >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >> > > > -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
J. Clarke wrote:
>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". >> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) >> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) > > However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it > for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either > damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that stuff won't react with much of anything. -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
J. Clarke wrote:
>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". >> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) >> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !) > > However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it > for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either > damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that stuff won't react with much of anything. -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message > news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... > ... >> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And >> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. >> Might have to do it more than once. >> > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the > door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with > the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk > that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match > or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin - seems to last a lot longer than the original ones. -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message > news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny... > ... >> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a >> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And >> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter >> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. >> Might have to do it more than once. >> > We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the > door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with > the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk > that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match > or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts. Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin - seems to last a lot longer than the original ones. -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Will Honea wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote: > >>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". >>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) >>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear >>> !) >> >> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves >> it >> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either >> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. > > 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid > they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that > stuff won't react with much of anything. Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Will Honea wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote: > >>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". >>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-) >>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear >>> !) >> >> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves >> it >> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either >> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it. > > 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid > they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that > stuff won't react with much of anything. Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
off of it? It's that time of year again. Cheers, Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something > else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent > wash job and not for it's lubrication properties. > > I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a > carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window > locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors > and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it > sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than > most bicycle specific brands. > > Earle Horton wrote: > > > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Earle > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > > wash, > >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > > the > >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > > dry > >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > > lock you > >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > > days.... > >> > >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> > >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > > "brew" > >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > > fluid > >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > > factory > >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > > got to > >> > it it was like molasses in January. > >> > > >> > Cheers, > >> > > >> > Earle > >> > > >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > > grease, > >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > > temperature. > >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > >> > multigrades > >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. > >> >> > >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > > use > >> > a > >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > > even > >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > >> >> > >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > >> > synth > >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > >> > you > >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > > congealed > >> > so > >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > > had > >> > to > >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > >> > You > >> >> > could have a similar problem. > >> >> > > >> >> > Good luck, > >> >> > > >> >> > Earle > >> >> > > >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > >> >> > > >> > > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> >> >> hi guys, > >> >> >> > >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > >> > when > >> >> >> it drops below freezing > >> >> >> > >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> >> >> > >> >> >> thanks > >> >> >> Jeff > >> >> >> > >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> -- > >> Will Honea > >> > >> -- > >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > >> > > > > > > > > -- > Will Honea > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
off of it? It's that time of year again. Cheers, Earle "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something > else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent > wash job and not for it's lubrication properties. > > I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a > carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window > locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors > and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it > sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than > most bicycle specific brands. > > Earle Horton wrote: > > > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube > > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every > > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high > > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really > > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Earle > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. . > >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray > > wash, > >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under > > the > >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area > > dry > >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door > > lock you > >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few > > days.... > >> > >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> > >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar > > "brew" > >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission > > fluid > >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the > > factory > >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I > > got to > >> > it it was like molasses in January. > >> > > >> > Cheers, > >> > > >> > Earle > >> > > >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message > >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. .. > >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or > > grease, > >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient > > temperature. > >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best > >> > multigrades > >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline. > >> >> > >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just > > use > >> > a > >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease > > even > >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism. > >> >> > >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure > >> > synth > >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which > >> > you > >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for. > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> Earle Horton wrote: > >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease > > congealed > >> > so > >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally > > had > >> > to > >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil. > >> > You > >> >> > could have a similar problem. > >> >> > > >> >> > Good luck, > >> >> > > >> >> > Earle > >> >> > > >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message > >> >> > > >> > > > news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com... > >> >> >> hi guys, > >> >> >> > >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) > >> > when > >> >> >> it drops below freezing > >> >> >> > >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this > >> >> >> > >> >> >> thanks > >> >> >> Jeff > >> >> >> > >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> -- > >> Will Honea > >> > >> -- > >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > >> > > > > > > > > -- > Will Honea > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice > off of it? It's that time of year again. PAM cooking spray. |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice > off of it? It's that time of year again. PAM cooking spray. |
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> Earle Horton wrote: >> By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice >> off of it? It's that time of year again. > > > PAM cooking spray. That works for a while but if it does anything like it does on some of my big pots it will age to a gummy mess. This PTFE spray-on stuff seemed to hold up pretty well in the weather. I had one door on an outhouse) that would get ice built up in the hinges to the point that the door didn't open until Spring (genius carpenter hung the door to open out, so the hinge was exposed). I didn't have any notion of keeping the ice off when I sprayed the hinges, but I get almost no ice buildup there any more, or at least it breaks off easily. I don't use the outhouse for much besides storage anymore (Hurrah for indoor toilets in the winter!!) so I don't pay much attention and that might have just been the weather instead of the spray. At least the bears didn't try to lick it off. Best answer I've seen for the dish is either a fairly heavy (10 mil or so) plastic sheet stretched over the dish, especially the small satellite type. Another guy sitting here swears that something like Turtle Wax will also work, but I have my doubts on that one. -- Will Honea -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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