hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
housing

Mike Romain wrote:

> As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> done a bunch of them successfully.
>
> The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> ------er.
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> >
> > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > the seat.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > >
> > > philthy wrote:
> > > >
> > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > >
> > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...

This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
axle Dana 30.

First you remove the diff cover.

Second you remove the axle (the hard part)

Third you remove the bearing caps.

Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
case.

Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
end.

(At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)

Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.

Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
housing.

Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
nut.

And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
sucking the seal into it's seat.

Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
hours it calls for before adding fluid.

I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
Seppster from this group.

Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!

Mike

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > done a bunch of them successfully.
> >
> > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > ------er.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > philthy wrote:
> > >
> > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > the seat.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > >
> > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...

This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
axle Dana 30.

First you remove the diff cover.

Second you remove the axle (the hard part)

Third you remove the bearing caps.

Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
case.

Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
end.

(At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)

Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.

Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
housing.

Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
nut.

And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
sucking the seal into it's seat.

Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
hours it calls for before adding fluid.

I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
Seppster from this group.

Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!

Mike

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > done a bunch of them successfully.
> >
> > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > ------er.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > philthy wrote:
> > >
> > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > the seat.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > >
> > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...

This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
axle Dana 30.

First you remove the diff cover.

Second you remove the axle (the hard part)

Third you remove the bearing caps.

Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
case.

Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
end.

(At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)

Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.

Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
housing.

Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
nut.

And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
sucking the seal into it's seat.

Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
hours it calls for before adding fluid.

I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
Seppster from this group.

Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!

Mike

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > done a bunch of them successfully.
> >
> > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > ------er.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > philthy wrote:
> > >
> > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > >
> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > the seat.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > >
> > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > >
> > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Oh, I also have never needed a case ------er, the older carriers come
out with no problem.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...
>
> This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
> axle Dana 30.
>
> First you remove the diff cover.
>
> Second you remove the axle (the hard part)
>
> Third you remove the bearing caps.
>
> Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
> expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
> case.
>
> Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
> end.
>
> (At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
> push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)
>
> Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
> a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.
>
> Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
> housing.
>
> Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
> nut.
>
> And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
> sucking the seal into it's seat.
>
> Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
> perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
> hours it calls for before adding fluid.
>
> I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
> Seppster from this group.
>
> Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
> I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> >
> > hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> > end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> > your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> > housing
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > > done a bunch of them successfully.
> > >
> > > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > > ------er.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > philthy wrote:
> > > >
> > > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > > >
> > > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > > the seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > > >
> > > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > > >
> > > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Oh, I also have never needed a case ------er, the older carriers come
out with no problem.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...
>
> This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
> axle Dana 30.
>
> First you remove the diff cover.
>
> Second you remove the axle (the hard part)
>
> Third you remove the bearing caps.
>
> Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
> expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
> case.
>
> Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
> end.
>
> (At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
> push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)
>
> Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
> a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.
>
> Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
> housing.
>
> Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
> nut.
>
> And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
> sucking the seal into it's seat.
>
> Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
> perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
> hours it calls for before adding fluid.
>
> I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
> Seppster from this group.
>
> Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
> I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> >
> > hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> > end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> > your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> > housing
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > > done a bunch of them successfully.
> > >
> > > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > > ------er.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > philthy wrote:
> > > >
> > > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > > >
> > > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > > the seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > > >
> > > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > > >
> > > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

Oh, I also have never needed a case ------er, the older carriers come
out with no problem.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Ok, it seemed like the right way to do it at the time...
>
> This works on both the locking hub and the vacuum lock and the solid
> axle Dana 30.
>
> First you remove the diff cover.
>
> Second you remove the axle (the hard part)
>
> Third you remove the bearing caps.
>
> Forth you pull the guts out. Oops, they don't fit because you have to
> expand the case so you just let them lay there in the bottom of the
> case.
>
> Fifth you pop the old seals out with a bar inserted from the outside
> end.
>
> (At about this point I clean everything and even use my threaded rod to
> push a rag through the tube to clean it like cleaning a gun barrel.)
>
> Sixth you insert a threaded rod from the outside into the axle tube with
> a bar that covers/crosses the opening and a nut.
>
> Seventh you slide the greased seal onto the threaded rod inside the
> housing.
>
> Eighth you put a washer the size of the seal onto the rod, then add a
> nut.
>
> And last you tighten the nut on the outside end of the threaded rod
> sucking the seal into it's seat.
>
> Then reassemble. If using RTV as a gasket the surfaces must be
> perfectly clean. I think it is best to let the RTV cure for the 24
> hours it calls for before adding fluid.
>
> I have personally done a bunch of these with perfect success. So has
> Seppster from this group.
>
> Gee did we just invent a way to burn the $tealer techs out of $800.00?
> I SURE hope so! LOL!!!!
>
> Mike
>
> philthy wrote:
> >
> > hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> > end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> > your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> > housing
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I made my own tool and I have
> > > done a bunch of them successfully.
> > >
> > > The tool is a threaded rod with washers on it that I use to suck the
> > > seal into it's seat. That tool means I wouldn't have to have the
> > > complete guts out of the case so I likely wouldn't need the case
> > > ------er.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > philthy wrote:
> > > >
> > > > without the tool it's a real pain to seat those without damaging them
> > > >
> > > > Mike Romain wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Seals have a seat. No matter what tool you use, if you don't seat them
> > > > > properly, they will leak. You don't put them in half way and figure you
> > > > > got them square by eye or hope you got them square, you bottom them to
> > > > > the seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> > > > >
> > > > > philthy wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > once ina great whil;e does the case ------er need to be used and usually
> > > > > > when a axle assembly has been heated up real good almost run dry it does
> > > > > > tkake some speical seal tools to get the seals in square or they leak
> > > > > >
> > > > > > n30er@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > My dealer just quoted $800 to replace a leaking front axle seal on my
> > > > > > > 2000 GC V8. After nearly suffering a heart attack I grabbed the manual
> > > > > > > to determine the level of effort and the only thing that scares me are
> > > > > > > the "special tools" required, mainly the ------er used to ------ the
> > > > > > > case to get the differential out. Do I really need this ------er and
> > > > > > > the subsequent tool to seat the 2 seals inside the case? I've ripped
> > > > > > > older 4x4's apart and can't remember having anything so "special" to
> > > > > > > get thing apart and back together.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks fellow Jeep fans!

 

The Dana 30 puts the seals in the differential housing, not in the
axle tubes: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing

 

The Dana 30 puts the seals in the differential housing, not in the
axle tubes: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing

 

The Dana 30 puts the seals in the differential housing, not in the
axle tubes: http://www.----------.com/dana30seals.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

philthy wrote:
>
> hmm let me reveiw this so i can learn a new thing the seals are installed in the
> end of the axle tubes on the inside of the diff case behind the bearing how does
> your tool get the seal in behind the carrier with it in place inside the diff.
> housing