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Re: Freshen up the tranny
Earle,
Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for 2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going. Chris "Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de... > I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no matter > what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the > vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal > is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in > the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway. > Ditto to the rest of what Chris said. > > I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty > straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in the > vehicle. :o) > > Earle > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net... > > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind. > > > > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle > > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess I'd > > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not sure > > if it leaked or not either. > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net... > > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting to > > > take > > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not > > really > > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like this, > > but > > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be > > > included > > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if > that > > > > makes a difference to anyone. > > > > > > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the > vehicle > > we > > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I > put > > > it > > > > in. > > > > > > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that > depends > > > some > > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125. It > > has > > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked > > out. > > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in > the > > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very > > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's Dodge > > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail, > but > > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked > > which > > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch > plates. > > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to rebuild > if > > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the > > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140 which > > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some upgrades. > > The > > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston > > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that part > > for > > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I > > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress > this > > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks. > > > > > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a > > leak > > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the front > > and > > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the > > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks. If > > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can also > > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the > > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply ports > > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper > band > > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for > > leaks > > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The low/reverse > > and > > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To check > > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they > are > > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2 > > hours > > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get > an > > > idea of cost. > > > > > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is > crap > > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal > clutch > > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell burnt, > > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than > > normal > > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and operated > > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it > as > > > is. > > > > > > HTH > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Freshen up the tranny
Earle,
Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for 2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going. Chris "Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de... > I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no matter > what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the > vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal > is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in > the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway. > Ditto to the rest of what Chris said. > > I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty > straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in the > vehicle. :o) > > Earle > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net... > > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind. > > > > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle > > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess I'd > > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not sure > > if it leaked or not either. > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net... > > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting to > > > take > > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not > > really > > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like this, > > but > > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be > > > included > > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if > that > > > > makes a difference to anyone. > > > > > > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the > vehicle > > we > > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I > put > > > it > > > > in. > > > > > > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that > depends > > > some > > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125. It > > has > > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked > > out. > > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in > the > > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very > > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's Dodge > > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail, > but > > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked > > which > > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch > plates. > > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to rebuild > if > > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the > > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140 which > > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some upgrades. > > The > > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston > > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that part > > for > > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I > > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress > this > > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks. > > > > > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a > > leak > > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the front > > and > > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the > > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks. If > > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can also > > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the > > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply ports > > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper > band > > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for > > leaks > > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The low/reverse > > and > > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To check > > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they > are > > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2 > > hours > > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get > an > > > idea of cost. > > > > > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is > crap > > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal > clutch > > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell burnt, > > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than > > normal > > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and operated > > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it > as > > > is. > > > > > > HTH > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Freshen up the tranny
Earle,
Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for 2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going. Chris "Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de... > I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no matter > what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the > vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal > is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in > the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway. > Ditto to the rest of what Chris said. > > I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty > straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in the > vehicle. :o) > > Earle > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net... > > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind. > > > > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle > > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess I'd > > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not sure > > if it leaked or not either. > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net... > > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting to > > > take > > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not > > really > > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like this, > > but > > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be > > > included > > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if > that > > > > makes a difference to anyone. > > > > > > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the > vehicle > > we > > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I > put > > > it > > > > in. > > > > > > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that > depends > > > some > > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125. It > > has > > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked > > out. > > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in > the > > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very > > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's Dodge > > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail, > but > > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked > > which > > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch > plates. > > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to rebuild > if > > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the > > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140 which > > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some upgrades. > > The > > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston > > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that part > > for > > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I > > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress > this > > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks. > > > > > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a > > leak > > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the front > > and > > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the > > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks. If > > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can also > > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the > > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply ports > > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper > band > > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for > > leaks > > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The low/reverse > > and > > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To check > > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they > are > > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2 > > hours > > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get > an > > > idea of cost. > > > > > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is > crap > > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal > clutch > > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell burnt, > > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than > > normal > > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and operated > > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it > as > > > is. > > > > > > HTH > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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