Earle,

Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well
change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The
trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the
first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times
as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for
2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going.

Chris

"Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message
news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no
matter
> what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the
> vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal
> is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in
> the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway.
> Ditto to the rest of what Chris said.
>
> I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty
> straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in
the
> vehicle. :o)
>
> Earle
>
> "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net...
> > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind.
> >
> > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle
> > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess
I'd
> > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not
sure
> > if it leaked or not either.
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net...
> > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting
to
> > > take
> > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not
> > really
> > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like
this,
> > but
> > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be
> > > included
> > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if
> that
> > > > makes a difference to anyone.
> > > >
> > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the
> vehicle
> > we
> > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I
> put
> > > it
> > > > in.
> > > >
> > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that
> depends
> > > some
> > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125.
It
> > has
> > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked
> > out.
> > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in
> the
> > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very
> > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's
Dodge
> > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail,
> but
> > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked
> > which
> > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch
> plates.
> > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to
rebuild
> if
> > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the
> > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140
which
> > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some
upgrades.
> > The
> > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston
> > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that
part
> > for
> > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I
> > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress
> this
> > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks.
> > >
> > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a
> > leak
> > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the
front
> > and
> > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the
> > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks.
If
> > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can
also
> > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the
> > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply
ports
> > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper
> band
> > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for
> > leaks
> > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The
low/reverse
> > and
> > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To
check
> > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they
> are
> > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2
> > hours
> > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get
> an
> > > idea of cost.
> > >
> > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is
> crap
> > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal
> clutch
> > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell
burnt,
> > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than
> > normal
> > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and
operated
> > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it
> as
> > > is.
> > >
> > > HTH
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Earle,

Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well
change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The
trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the
first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times
as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for
2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going.

Chris

"Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message
news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no
matter
> what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the
> vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal
> is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in
> the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway.
> Ditto to the rest of what Chris said.
>
> I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty
> straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in
the
> vehicle. :o)
>
> Earle
>
> "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net...
> > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind.
> >
> > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle
> > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess
I'd
> > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not
sure
> > if it leaked or not either.
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net...
> > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting
to
> > > take
> > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not
> > really
> > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like
this,
> > but
> > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be
> > > included
> > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if
> that
> > > > makes a difference to anyone.
> > > >
> > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the
> vehicle
> > we
> > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I
> put
> > > it
> > > > in.
> > > >
> > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that
> depends
> > > some
> > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125.
It
> > has
> > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked
> > out.
> > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in
> the
> > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very
> > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's
Dodge
> > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail,
> but
> > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked
> > which
> > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch
> plates.
> > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to
rebuild
> if
> > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the
> > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140
which
> > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some
upgrades.
> > The
> > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston
> > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that
part
> > for
> > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I
> > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress
> this
> > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks.
> > >
> > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a
> > leak
> > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the
front
> > and
> > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the
> > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks.
If
> > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can
also
> > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the
> > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply
ports
> > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper
> band
> > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for
> > leaks
> > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The
low/reverse
> > and
> > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To
check
> > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they
> are
> > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2
> > hours
> > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get
> an
> > > idea of cost.
> > >
> > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is
> crap
> > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal
> clutch
> > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell
burnt,
> > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than
> > normal
> > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and
operated
> > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it
> as
> > > is.
> > >
> > > HTH
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Earle,

Good point about the front seal. I forgot to mention that. Might as well
change it right away, along with the filter, rear seal and pan gasket. The
trans I just did worked out real well. This one seemed easy compared to the
first one I did, which was a GM 700R4. I think there are literally 10 times
as many parts in that thing as compared to a Torqueflight. So far I'm 2 for
2 on trannys. Hopefully I can keep that going.

Chris

"Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message
news:blv7in$gbn72$1@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de...
> I like to change the front seal when I have the transmission out, no
matter
> what. This is much cheaper than changing it with the transmission in the
> vehicle. Murphy's Law applies to front transmission seals. The rear seal
> is real easy to change out of the vehicle too. It's easy to change it in
> the vehicle, but if it goes bad you still get a puddle in your driveway.
> Ditto to the rest of what Chris said.
>
> I rebuilt one of these things about '79 or '80, and it was pretty
> straightforward as I remember it. It even worked once I put it back in
the
> vehicle. :o)
>
> Earle
>
> "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:uWEgb.62$e86.81141@news.uswest.net...
> > Thanks Chris. All good things to keep in mind.
> >
> > I think I'll have it checked out since we only drove the donor vehicle
> > around the block once or twice before tearing out the tranny. I guess
I'd
> > rather spend a few bucks now than take it out again in 2 months. Not
sure
> > if it leaked or not either.
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:lfDgb.19688$832.10840@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "Kevin Sperle" <ksperle@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:WUBgb.2848$b74.20112@news.uswest.net...
> > > > Getting prepared to do my auto tranny swap in my CJ. I was wanting
to
> > > take
> > > > it in first and have it checked out or "freshened up", but I'm not
> > really
> > > > sure what to ask for? I know most tranny places do service like
this,
> > but
> > > > what exactly are they doing, and what kinds of things might not be
> > > included
> > > > or should I watch out for? It's a TF727 out of a Grand Wagoneer if
> that
> > > > makes a difference to anyone.
> > > >
> > > > I'm 95% sure the tranny is fine (it seemed to drive fine in the
> vehicle
> > we
> > > > took it out of), but I want it to be checked out/cleaned up before I
> put
> > > it
> > > > in.
> > > >
> > > > How much should I expect to pay for the service (I suppose that
> depends
> > > some
> > > > on my location), I thought my friend got his done for around $125.
It
> > has
> > > > been removed from the vehicle so labor should be cheap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Be sure you go to a reputable place if you're going to have it checked
> > out.
> > > My personal opinion is if it doesn't leak anywhere and it ran good in
> the
> > > donor vehicle, then use the trans as is. The Torqueflight is a very
> > > dependable transmission as is. I just rebuilt one for my friend's
Dodge
> > > Challenger which had been sitting for many years. This trans did fail,
> but
> > > it was from sitting. Some of the piston seals had dried up and cracked
> > which
> > > caused the pistons to not apply the correct pressure to the clutch
> plates.
> > > They ended up burning up. These transmissions are quite easy to
rebuild
> if
> > > you are mechanically inclined, but it is not for everyone. This is the
> > > second trans I have rebuilt so far. Total cost for parts was $140
which
> > > included a full rebuild kit, a rebuild service manual and some
upgrades.
> > The
> > > special tools required are some snap ring pliers and a clutch piston
> > > compressor. The compressor is not needed if you have a shop do that
part
> > for
> > > you. I had one here that was designed for another transmission that I
> > > adapted to work for the Torqueflight. Most trans shops will compress
> this
> > > piston and install the snap ring for you for a few bucks.
> > >
> > > If you feel the need to have it checked out, you should have them do a
> > leak
> > > check on the transmission which involves sealing off the vent, the
front
> > and
> > > rear seals and the cooler ports. Then about 10psi is applied to the
> > > transmission through the case vent and it is checked for fluid leaks.
If
> > > this checks out, then the seals and gaskets are all good. They can
also
> > > check clutch and band operation, but this involves opening up the
> > > transmission and removing the valve body. There are pressure apply
ports
> > > that air is applied to. This will allow the shop to check for proper
> band
> > > and clutch piston actuation. They will also check the piston seals for
> > leaks
> > > which is simply an audible test when the air is applied. The
low/reverse
> > and
> > > kickdown bands can be visually inspected at this point as well. To
check
> > > clutch condition requires a teardown of the transmission because they
> are
> > > hidden deep inside the case. The whole job shouldn't take more than 2
> > hours
> > > from a good trans shop. so figure the labor rates for your area to get
> an
> > > idea of cost.
> > >
> > > One word of warning. Do not let the shop tell you the transmission is
> crap
> > > because there is a black powdery residue in the pan. This is normal
> clutch
> > > and band wear. If the trans fluid is bright red and doesn't smell
burnt,
> > > then chances are the clutches and bands are probably fine other than
> > normal
> > > wear. In summary, like I said earlier, if the trans shifted and
operated
> > > properly, and doesn't leak, I would simply change the fluid and use it
> as
> > > is.
> > >
> > > HTH
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>