Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
02-06-2007, 06:35 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Bill,
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
if you still have the front axle disconnect.
Earle
"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
> That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> differentials.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > transfer case.
> >
> > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > the backlash is eliminated.
> >
> > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > the transfer case.
> >
> > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
> >
> > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > disengaged you are ready to tow.
> >
> > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
> >
> > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
> >
> > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > case and transmission in neutral and go.
> >
> > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > is in.
> >
> > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > you set it.
> >
> > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > put the transfer case into neutral then.
> >
> > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
> >
> > Comments and questions are welcome.
> >
> > Your mileage may vary.
> > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > Atlanta, Georgia
> >
>
>
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
if you still have the front axle disconnect.
Earle
"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
> That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> differentials.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > transfer case.
> >
> > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > the backlash is eliminated.
> >
> > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > the transfer case.
> >
> > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
> >
> > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > disengaged you are ready to tow.
> >
> > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
> >
> > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
> >
> > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > case and transmission in neutral and go.
> >
> > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > is in.
> >
> > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > you set it.
> >
> > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > put the transfer case into neutral then.
> >
> > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
> >
> > Comments and questions are welcome.
> >
> > Your mileage may vary.
> > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > Atlanta, Georgia
> >
>
>
02-06-2007, 06:40 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
02-06-2007, 06:40 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
02-06-2007, 06:40 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
02-06-2007, 06:40 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
> > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> > differentials.
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com...
> > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > > transfer case.
>
> > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > > the backlash is eliminated.
>
> > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > > the transfer case.
>
> > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > > disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > > case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > > is in.
>
> > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > > you set it.
>
> > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > > put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> > > Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> > > Your mileage may vary.
> > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
(falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
wheel should be off the ground.
There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
02-06-2007, 06:45 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
02-06-2007, 06:45 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
02-06-2007, 06:45 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
02-06-2007, 06:45 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message
news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Bill,
>
> I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few
times
> since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
> test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach
under
> the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
> ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a
wheel
> if you still have the front axle disconnect.
>
> Earle
02-06-2007, 07:39 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have
the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because
sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to
mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the
newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat
tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs,
newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you
never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the
OP's idea.
Earle
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
....
>
> I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
> driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
> connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
> driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
> (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
> eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
> wheel should be off the ground.
>
> There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
> with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
>
>
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have
the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because
sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to
mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the
newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat
tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs,
newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you
never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the
OP's idea.
Earle
"nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
....
>
> I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the
> driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still
> connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the
> driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think
> (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to
> eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front
> wheel should be off the ground.
>
> There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected
> with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.
>
>