Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)

But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.

I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
thermodynamically effiecient.

Mike Romain wrote:

> Holy crap!
>
> Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
>
> They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
>
> Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
>
> All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long
> and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having
> no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
>
> The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
>
> A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch
> the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> spinning, the clutch is toast.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> nvrpc wrote:
>
>>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond
>>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of
>>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at
>>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the
>>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still
>>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well
>>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
>>
>>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

Ahh, read that wrong....

Mike

Roy J wrote:
>
> Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
>
> But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
>
> I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> thermodynamically effiecient.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Holy crap!
> >
> > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> >
> > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> >
> > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> >
> > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long
> > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having
> > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> >
> > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> >
> > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch
> > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > nvrpc wrote:
> >
> >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond
> >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of
> >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at
> >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the
> >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still
> >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well
> >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> >>
> >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

Ahh, read that wrong....

Mike

Roy J wrote:
>
> Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
>
> But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
>
> I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> thermodynamically effiecient.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Holy crap!
> >
> > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> >
> > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> >
> > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> >
> > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long
> > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having
> > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> >
> > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> >
> > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch
> > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > nvrpc wrote:
> >
> >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond
> >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of
> >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at
> >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the
> >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still
> >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well
> >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> >>
> >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

Ahh, read that wrong....

Mike

Roy J wrote:
>
> Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
>
> But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
>
> I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> thermodynamically effiecient.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Holy crap!
> >
> > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> >
> > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> >
> > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> >
> > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long
> > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having
> > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> >
> > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> >
> > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch
> > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > nvrpc wrote:
> >
> >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond
> >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of
> >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at
> >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the
> >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still
> >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well
> >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> >>
> >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

Ahh, read that wrong....

Mike

Roy J wrote:
>
> Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
>
> But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
>
> I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> thermodynamically effiecient.
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > Holy crap!
> >
> > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> >
> > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> >
> > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> >
> > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too long
> > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess having
> > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> >
> > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> >
> > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you watch
> > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > nvrpc wrote:
> >
> >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175 pond
> >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan clutch of
> >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick in at
> >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with AC the
> >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It still
> >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing very well
> >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> >>
> >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

How about one of those non thermals to run the fan at engine RPM all of the
time?

Any thoughts on that.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4097F6E0.2C25812E@sympatico.ca...
> Ahh, read that wrong....
>
> Mike
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
> >
> > But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> > fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
> >
> > I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> > with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> > room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> > thermodynamically effiecient.
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > Holy crap!
> > >
> > > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> > >
> > > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> > >
> > > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> > >
> > > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too
long
> > > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess
having
> > > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> > >
> > > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> > >
> > > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you
watch
> > > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > nvrpc wrote:
> > >
> > >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175
pond
> > >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan
clutch of
> > >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick
in at
> > >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with
AC the
> > >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It
still
> > >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing
very well
> > >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> > >>
> > >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

How about one of those non thermals to run the fan at engine RPM all of the
time?

Any thoughts on that.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4097F6E0.2C25812E@sympatico.ca...
> Ahh, read that wrong....
>
> Mike
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
> >
> > But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> > fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
> >
> > I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> > with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> > room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> > thermodynamically effiecient.
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > Holy crap!
> > >
> > > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> > >
> > > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> > >
> > > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> > >
> > > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too
long
> > > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess
having
> > > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> > >
> > > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> > >
> > > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you
watch
> > > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > nvrpc wrote:
> > >
> > >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175
pond
> > >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan
clutch of
> > >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick
in at
> > >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with
AC the
> > >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It
still
> > >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing
very well
> > >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> > >>
> > >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

How about one of those non thermals to run the fan at engine RPM all of the
time?

Any thoughts on that.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4097F6E0.2C25812E@sympatico.ca...
> Ahh, read that wrong....
>
> Mike
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
> >
> > But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> > fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
> >
> > I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> > with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> > room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> > thermodynamically effiecient.
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > Holy crap!
> > >
> > > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> > >
> > > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> > >
> > > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> > >
> > > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too
long
> > > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess
having
> > > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> > >
> > > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> > >
> > > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you
watch
> > > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > nvrpc wrote:
> > >
> > >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175
pond
> > >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan
clutch of
> > >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick
in at
> > >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with
AC the
> > >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It
still
> > >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing
very well
> > >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> > >>
> > >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?

 

How about one of those non thermals to run the fan at engine RPM all of the
time?

Any thoughts on that.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4097F6E0.2C25812E@sympatico.ca...
> Ahh, read that wrong....
>
> Mike
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > Hubs go to 175ft/lbs WHEELS go to 100ft/lbs (He has the 1 piece hubs)
> >
> > But like Mike says, the engine likes to run at around 200 for
> > fuel effieincy and driveability reasons.
> >
> > I might point out that trying to get the engine to run at 160
> > with ambient at 94 only gives you 66 degrees of heat transfer
> > room. Takes a BIG radiator and small engine to be that
> > thermodynamically effiecient.
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > Holy crap!
> > >
> > > Man how do you figure you will ever get those wheels off?
> > >
> > > They should be torqued on around 100 ft lb max.
> > >
> > > Your engine is designed to run at 210. I do not know any way to lower
> > > it from that. The 4.0 engine runs at 210 also.
> > >
> > > All that cold t-stat is going to do is to keep it in choke mode too
long
> > > and not allow any heat to the inside of the vehicle. But I guess
having
> > > no heater can be ok, depending on where you live.
> > >
> > > The thermostat only controls how fast the engine heats up and how much
> > > heat you have in the heater. It has no bearing on running.
> > >
> > > A good fan clutch will stop when the engine is shut down hot. So you
> > > can heat up the engine and have someone shut off the key while you
watch
> > > the fan. If the clutch is good, the hot fan stops. If it keeps on
> > > spinning, the clutch is toast.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > nvrpc wrote:
> > >
> > >>Okay. We got the new hubs on yesterady and torqued those nuts to 175
pond
> > >>feet. Now I have another request. I currently have the stock fan
clutch of
> > >>which I hear will not kick in until 210 +. I want one that will kick
in at
> > >>165 degrees. Doe anyone know where I can buy one. It seems that with
AC the
> > >>three core that I just put in will not keep the 258 cool enough. It
still
> > >>runs at ~ 210 when the outside air is 94 degrees. Water is flowing
very well
> > >>and I have a 165 thermosat in this vehicle.
> > >>
> > >>Well back to the cluch fan. Any ideas?