Jeff Strickland

Pull the engine and drive it to the machine shop?

If you are taking the motor to the machine shop to have the kit installed,
do it yourself. There is nothing to it, and if you arfe able to do a
frame-up restoration, you can certainly handle what is essentially a swap of
the intake manifold.

My kit came with a booklet of helpful hints. HINT #1, read the hints first,
not last.




"serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:934d0785.0308200852.19feb3a5@posting.google.c om...
> jeff-i actually have lots of room.....i'm doing a body off frame
> rebuild so all i have sitting on the frame is the drivetrain! thanks
> for the advice though! removing the fenders makes a whole world of
> difference! i just received the mpi kit this week and i'm waiting to
> have time to pull the engine and drive it over to the machine shop.
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:<vk4v30t1qaqs78@corp.supernews.com>...
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:wbh0b.3073$SQ.1681@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com ...
> > > is the mating surface on the manifold completely flat? it might be
warped,
> > > causing it to just barely miss the hole. i just received my mpi kit
and
> > > will be installing it in about a month or so...i'll keep reading your
> > > posts...
> > >
> >
> >
> > Will gives some good advice, let me add. REMOVE THE FENDER. I know it
sounds
> > like a pain, but it isn't. You have to remove the radiator and grill to
get
> > the harmonic balancer off. Actually, you don't _have_ to remove these,
but
> > it helps alot. The fender is just four more bolts, maybe five. The
entire
> > work area will open up and provide much easier access. the added access
can
> > easily be the difference in a broken bolt, or a smooth procedure. I go
for
> > the smooth procedure everytime.

Jeff Strickland

Pull the engine and drive it to the machine shop?

If you are taking the motor to the machine shop to have the kit installed,
do it yourself. There is nothing to it, and if you arfe able to do a
frame-up restoration, you can certainly handle what is essentially a swap of
the intake manifold.

My kit came with a booklet of helpful hints. HINT #1, read the hints first,
not last.




"serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:934d0785.0308200852.19feb3a5@posting.google.c om...
> jeff-i actually have lots of room.....i'm doing a body off frame
> rebuild so all i have sitting on the frame is the drivetrain! thanks
> for the advice though! removing the fenders makes a whole world of
> difference! i just received the mpi kit this week and i'm waiting to
> have time to pull the engine and drive it over to the machine shop.
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:<vk4v30t1qaqs78@corp.supernews.com>...
> > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > news:wbh0b.3073$SQ.1681@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com ...
> > > is the mating surface on the manifold completely flat? it might be
warped,
> > > causing it to just barely miss the hole. i just received my mpi kit
and
> > > will be installing it in about a month or so...i'll keep reading your
> > > posts...
> > >
> >
> >
> > Will gives some good advice, let me add. REMOVE THE FENDER. I know it
sounds
> > like a pain, but it isn't. You have to remove the radiator and grill to
get
> > the harmonic balancer off. Actually, you don't _have_ to remove these,
but
> > it helps alot. The fender is just four more bolts, maybe five. The
entire
> > work area will open up and provide much easier access. the added access
can
> > easily be the difference in a broken bolt, or a smooth procedure. I go
for
> > the smooth procedure everytime.

Jeff Strickland

Align the center holes, and cut from the ends. Leave the center most holes
alone, and enlarge the end holes.




-
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bi01nm$3pcl4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Hey, Thanks for the advice. I did as you mentioned. I have a Titanium
> grinding tip for my drill so I grinded it out. I took a lot of as it was
> not that hole only and I have a little more to do to make some of the
> bottom, center bolt holes to work but I think this will do it. I canceled
> the order and am going to finish it up today.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> bill
>
> "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:g8z0b.10707$Wo1.531543@twister.socal.rr.com.. .
> > Read the thread,
> > Man you didn't need to replace the manifold! I hope you at least bought
a
> > header. My bolt hoes were the same way. All surfaces had been machined
> > flat, all I did was file out the back hole since that was the one not
> lining
> > up and voila it fit. I've got about 3K miles since the MPI kit install
and
> > no problem at all.
> > My advice is cancel the order. Spend that money on a file and use the
rest
> > for beer and scotch...
> > Rich
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bhs4um$2jkqf$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > When I try to get my exhaust manifold back on I see there are 2 bolt
> holes
> > > (threaded holes for bolts), one on each end of the head, where if I
put
> a
> > > bolt in the back one, the front one doesn't line up. The manifold is
> > short
> > > of making it to the hole. The only thing I can figure out is the
> manifold
> > > has shrunk over time or something. There are 12 bolt holes for both
the
> > > intake and exhaust manifold and I know I only took out 8. Perhaps the
> > > previous mechanic fudged his installation.
> > >
> > > Should the manifold bolt holes line up exactly with the head holes?
> > >
> > > Any ideas anyone?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Jeff Strickland

Align the center holes, and cut from the ends. Leave the center most holes
alone, and enlarge the end holes.




-
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bi01nm$3pcl4$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Hey, Thanks for the advice. I did as you mentioned. I have a Titanium
> grinding tip for my drill so I grinded it out. I took a lot of as it was
> not that hole only and I have a little more to do to make some of the
> bottom, center bolt holes to work but I think this will do it. I canceled
> the order and am going to finish it up today.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> bill
>
> "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11@san.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:g8z0b.10707$Wo1.531543@twister.socal.rr.com.. .
> > Read the thread,
> > Man you didn't need to replace the manifold! I hope you at least bought
a
> > header. My bolt hoes were the same way. All surfaces had been machined
> > flat, all I did was file out the back hole since that was the one not
> lining
> > up and voila it fit. I've got about 3K miles since the MPI kit install
and
> > no problem at all.
> > My advice is cancel the order. Spend that money on a file and use the
rest
> > for beer and scotch...
> > Rich
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bhs4um$2jkqf$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > When I try to get my exhaust manifold back on I see there are 2 bolt
> holes
> > > (threaded holes for bolts), one on each end of the head, where if I
put
> a
> > > bolt in the back one, the front one doesn't line up. The manifold is
> > short
> > > of making it to the hole. The only thing I can figure out is the
> manifold
> > > has shrunk over time or something. There are 12 bolt holes for both
the
> > > intake and exhaust manifold and I know I only took out 8. Perhaps the
> > > previous mechanic fudged his installation.
> > >
> > > Should the manifold bolt holes line up exactly with the head holes?
> > >
> > > Any ideas anyone?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Jeff Strickland

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bi0ed1$3rdl3$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Yep, that's what I did. There were some others which are "half bolt
holes"
> which I needed to grind down because they were curving right in front of
the
> bolt hole.
>
> Are you using studs in some of the bolt holes?
>
>

If I recall correctly, the two ends were studs that held the manifolds in
place until the remaining bolts could be installed. I think I bought a set
of either 10 or 12 bolts and manifold washers, maybe 10 bolts and 12 washers
and 2 nuts. At any rate, I replaced the mounting hardware. Two of the mounts
(one at each end) were studs that remained in the block whent he manifolds
were removed. I don't remember having any half-holes, but it wouldn't have
surprised me. I also did not use my exhaust manifold with the MPFI, I
installed a Borla header at that time. My header was not flat on the mating
surface and required extensive sanding to remove several thousandths of
material so the mating surfaces would actually mate. After the machine work,
the header went on without a gasket, and has not leaked.

Jeff Strickland

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bi0ed1$3rdl3$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Yep, that's what I did. There were some others which are "half bolt
holes"
> which I needed to grind down because they were curving right in front of
the
> bolt hole.
>
> Are you using studs in some of the bolt holes?
>
>

If I recall correctly, the two ends were studs that held the manifolds in
place until the remaining bolts could be installed. I think I bought a set
of either 10 or 12 bolts and manifold washers, maybe 10 bolts and 12 washers
and 2 nuts. At any rate, I replaced the mounting hardware. Two of the mounts
(one at each end) were studs that remained in the block whent he manifolds
were removed. I don't remember having any half-holes, but it wouldn't have
surprised me. I also did not use my exhaust manifold with the MPFI, I
installed a Borla header at that time. My header was not flat on the mating
surface and required extensive sanding to remove several thousandths of
material so the mating surfaces would actually mate. After the machine work,
the header went on without a gasket, and has not leaked.

serg

i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the
install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake
manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's
installs and it shouldn't be too difficult...


"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk7dtjculueh76@corp.supernews.com>...
> Pull the engine and drive it to the machine shop?
>
> If you are taking the motor to the machine shop to have the kit installed,
> do it yourself. There is nothing to it, and if you arfe able to do a
> frame-up restoration, you can certainly handle what is essentially a swap of
> the intake manifold.
>
> My kit came with a booklet of helpful hints. HINT #1, read the hints first,
> not last.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0308200852.19feb3a5@posting.google.c om...
> > jeff-i actually have lots of room.....i'm doing a body off frame
> > rebuild so all i have sitting on the frame is the drivetrain! thanks
> > for the advice though! removing the fenders makes a whole world of
> > difference! i just received the mpi kit this week and i'm waiting to
> > have time to pull the engine and drive it over to the machine shop.
> >
> > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:<vk4v30t1qaqs78@corp.supernews.com>...
> > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > > news:wbh0b.3073$SQ.1681@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com ...
> > > > is the mating surface on the manifold completely flat? it might be
> warped,
> > > > causing it to just barely miss the hole. i just received my mpi kit
> and
> > > > will be installing it in about a month or so...i'll keep reading your
> > > > posts...
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Will gives some good advice, let me add. REMOVE THE FENDER. I know it
> sounds
> > > like a pain, but it isn't. You have to remove the radiator and grill to
> get
> > > the harmonic balancer off. Actually, you don't _have_ to remove these,
> but
> > > it helps alot. The fender is just four more bolts, maybe five. The
> entire
> > > work area will open up and provide much easier access. the added access
> can
> > > easily be the difference in a broken bolt, or a smooth procedure. I go
> for
> > > the smooth procedure everytime.

serg

i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the
install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake
manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's
installs and it shouldn't be too difficult...


"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk7dtjculueh76@corp.supernews.com>...
> Pull the engine and drive it to the machine shop?
>
> If you are taking the motor to the machine shop to have the kit installed,
> do it yourself. There is nothing to it, and if you arfe able to do a
> frame-up restoration, you can certainly handle what is essentially a swap of
> the intake manifold.
>
> My kit came with a booklet of helpful hints. HINT #1, read the hints first,
> not last.
>
>
>
>
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0308200852.19feb3a5@posting.google.c om...
> > jeff-i actually have lots of room.....i'm doing a body off frame
> > rebuild so all i have sitting on the frame is the drivetrain! thanks
> > for the advice though! removing the fenders makes a whole world of
> > difference! i just received the mpi kit this week and i'm waiting to
> > have time to pull the engine and drive it over to the machine shop.
> >
> > "Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:<vk4v30t1qaqs78@corp.supernews.com>...
> > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message
> > > news:wbh0b.3073$SQ.1681@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com ...
> > > > is the mating surface on the manifold completely flat? it might be
> warped,
> > > > causing it to just barely miss the hole. i just received my mpi kit
> and
> > > > will be installing it in about a month or so...i'll keep reading your
> > > > posts...
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Will gives some good advice, let me add. REMOVE THE FENDER. I know it
> sounds
> > > like a pain, but it isn't. You have to remove the radiator and grill to
> get
> > > the harmonic balancer off. Actually, you don't _have_ to remove these,
> but
> > > it helps alot. The fender is just four more bolts, maybe five. The
> entire
> > > work area will open up and provide much easier access. the added access
> can
> > > easily be the difference in a broken bolt, or a smooth procedure. I go
> for
> > > the smooth procedure everytime.

serg

thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too.
can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :)
rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost
and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway
so...might as well do it right the first time.

regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the
driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i
guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it
would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot
long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the
radiator.

good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0
head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand
waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold,
etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto
the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install
the long block on the frame and then install the rest.



"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>...
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om...
> > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the
> > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake
> > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's
> > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult...
> >
> If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install
> pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can
> complete the project.
>
> While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the
> head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0
> than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90°
> bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer
> bend increases the air flow, which improves the power.
>
> Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off
> so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the
> oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of
> degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The
> washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the
> washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand
> while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay
> with the exhaust manifold/header installed.
>
> Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the
> passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a
> worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame
> rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from
> passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame
> rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to
> the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job
> will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the
> cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and
> getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back
> brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or
> hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few
> inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys
> follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is
> pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.)
>
> Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog ***** will have
> a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be
> based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers,
> there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your
> system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look
> in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation
> book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of
> the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results
> of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after
> I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators,
> and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original
> test was not performed correctly.

serg

thanks for all the advice jeff! i'm doing the 4.0 HO head swap too.
can't you tell i've been thinking about this project for a while? :)
rebuilt short block, 4.0 HO head and mpi. i hope it's worth the cost
and trouble. i'm planning to keep the jeep for a while anyway
so...might as well do it right the first time.

regarding the fuel line relocation-wouldn't running the lines on the
driver's side frame rail make it come too close to the exhaust pipe? i
guess i could follow the brake lines going towards the back...and it
would make the installation that much easier-no need for an 8 foot
long piece of fi hose going around the front of the engine under the
radiator.

good tips on the washers when installng the CPS. i'm hoping the 4.0
head will get rid of the pinging problems. i have an engine stand
waiting in the garage to aid me with the installation of the manifold,
etc. i figured i can put the whole thing together and drop it onto
the frame. kinda nice having nothing on it! heck, i could install
the long block on the frame and then install the rest.



"Jeff Strickland" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<vk9sfrt1i68he3@corp.supernews.com>...
> "serg" <sfon@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:934d0785.0308201400.68fb2e86@posting.google.c om...
> > i'm actually taking the engine to the shop to get it rebuilt! the
> > install looks pretty easy, like you said, a swap of the intake
> > manifold. i've been doing a lot of reading up on other people's
> > installs and it shouldn't be too difficult...
> >
> If you are going in for a full rebuild, the shop should be able to install
> pretty cheaply, or give the motor back without the manifolds, and you can
> complete the project.
>
> While the rebuild is taking place, you might want to see if you can have the
> head swapped for one from a 4.0. The intake track is much better on the 4.0
> than the 4.2 head. The difference is the intake ports on the 4.2 makes a 90°
> bend to get to the valve, but the 4.0 head only makes a 45° bend. The softer
> bend increases the air flow, which improves the power.
>
> Have your rebuilder install the harmonic balancer, or leave the old one off
> so you don't have to remove it. When installing the CPS to the front of the
> oil pan, be sure to add a couple of washers to retard the timing a couple of
> degrees. The MPFI kit will demand premium gas, and is prone to pinging. The
> washers under the CPS help to prevent the pinging. I don't know if the
> washers are needed with the 4.0 head, or not. I would rent an engine stand
> while installing the MPFI, then drop the entire motor into the engine bay
> with the exhaust manifold/header installed.
>
> Somebody recommended that I relocate the fuel delivery pipe from the
> passenger side frame rail to the driver side frame rail, I think this was a
> worth while effort. The with the fuel delivery up the passenger side frame
> rail, you will need a cross over hose that is difficult to protect from
> passing branches and logs. Moving the fuel pipe to the driver side frame
> rail causes the pipe to meet up prefectly with the fuel tube that goes to
> the injector rail. Since you have an exposed frame, this part of the job
> will be very easy, and worth the effort. (The difficulty in protecting the
> cross over hose is that the fuel rails come down the back of the motor, and
> getting from the right side near the front to the left side near the back
> brings the hose pretty near the exhaust system, and requires several feet or
> hose. When the fuel pipe is moved to the left side, you only need a few
> inches of hose, and it is well away from the exhaust system. Some guys
> follow the brake pipe from the right side to the left side, but my Jeep is
> pretty well scratched and bent near the path of the brake pipe.)
>
> Be sure to apply the certification stickers because the Smog ***** will have
> a field day when you show up for the inspection. Your smog test should be
> based upon the '94 YJ after you get done. Even with the cert. stickers,
> there will be a guy on the machine may not know how to deal with your
> system. The sticker has a number on it (D-365, I think), the guy MUST look
> in his regulation book and find this number (whatever it is). the regulation
> book will tell him that all of the stock stuff should be gone, and all of
> the kit stuff should be there, then to calibrate his machine to give results
> of a '94 engine. My local smog guy still managed to screw it up, even after
> I helped him read the book. It took a phone call to the state regulators,
> and a retest to get squared away. The retest was free because the original
> test was not performed correctly.