Mike Romain

It is supposed to be rubber mounted all the way back with the tailpipe
coming out at the corner on a 45 degree angle to the sides and back for
fume control.

I simply went and bought generic hangers to do mine when the 'muffler'
shop couldn't figure out how to install a Dynomax muffler into a CJ7
because CJ's here in Canada don't need cats and their book is American.

They just couldn't figure out how to let the main pipe run perfectly
'straight', it had to have a bend and flange.

Talk about losers calling themselves 'techs' not knowing ---- if the
'computer' don't tell em so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Jon wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> Things are going sweet in my new (to me) Jeep. The guy I bought it off
> just had a new cat back Dynamax installed.
>
> Over every bump comes the rattle/clunk from the rear. On some
> startups, there is a clunk sounding like the exhaist hitting the floor
> dead center of the Jeep.
>
> Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing
> the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half
> inch from the floor of the Jeep.
>
> The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank
> skid plate. (1/2" on either side)
>
> My question is:
>
> Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer
> between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does
> that pipe get?
>
> Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe
> has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe...
> leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by
> slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have
> metal on metal with a moving part?!?!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> ~Jon
>
> my stats:
> 91 YJ 4.0 auto
> shackles giving about 1.5" lift
>

Mike Romain

It is supposed to be rubber mounted all the way back with the tailpipe
coming out at the corner on a 45 degree angle to the sides and back for
fume control.

I simply went and bought generic hangers to do mine when the 'muffler'
shop couldn't figure out how to install a Dynomax muffler into a CJ7
because CJ's here in Canada don't need cats and their book is American.

They just couldn't figure out how to let the main pipe run perfectly
'straight', it had to have a bend and flange.

Talk about losers calling themselves 'techs' not knowing ---- if the
'computer' don't tell em so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Jon wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> Things are going sweet in my new (to me) Jeep. The guy I bought it off
> just had a new cat back Dynamax installed.
>
> Over every bump comes the rattle/clunk from the rear. On some
> startups, there is a clunk sounding like the exhaist hitting the floor
> dead center of the Jeep.
>
> Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing
> the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half
> inch from the floor of the Jeep.
>
> The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank
> skid plate. (1/2" on either side)
>
> My question is:
>
> Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer
> between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does
> that pipe get?
>
> Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe
> has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe...
> leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by
> slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have
> metal on metal with a moving part?!?!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> ~Jon
>
> my stats:
> 91 YJ 4.0 auto
> shackles giving about 1.5" lift
>

Mike Romain

It is supposed to be rubber mounted all the way back with the tailpipe
coming out at the corner on a 45 degree angle to the sides and back for
fume control.

I simply went and bought generic hangers to do mine when the 'muffler'
shop couldn't figure out how to install a Dynomax muffler into a CJ7
because CJ's here in Canada don't need cats and their book is American.

They just couldn't figure out how to let the main pipe run perfectly
'straight', it had to have a bend and flange.

Talk about losers calling themselves 'techs' not knowing ---- if the
'computer' don't tell em so.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Jon wrote:
> Hey folks,
>
> Things are going sweet in my new (to me) Jeep. The guy I bought it off
> just had a new cat back Dynamax installed.
>
> Over every bump comes the rattle/clunk from the rear. On some
> startups, there is a clunk sounding like the exhaist hitting the floor
> dead center of the Jeep.
>
> Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing
> the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half
> inch from the floor of the Jeep.
>
> The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank
> skid plate. (1/2" on either side)
>
> My question is:
>
> Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer
> between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does
> that pipe get?
>
> Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe
> has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe...
> leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by
> slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have
> metal on metal with a moving part?!?!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> ~Jon
>
> my stats:
> 91 YJ 4.0 auto
> shackles giving about 1.5" lift
>

Jon

Hello Mike,

Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
there.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
individual.... yet.

The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
engine light).

Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.

I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.

Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
nonsense.



~Jon

Jon

Hello Mike,

Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
there.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
individual.... yet.

The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
engine light).

Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.

I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.

Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
nonsense.



~Jon

Jon

Hello Mike,

Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
there.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
individual.... yet.

The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
engine light).

Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.

I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.

Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
nonsense.



~Jon

Mike Romain

The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the
shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with
a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U
shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the
frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are
the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side.

If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in
through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides
being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in
under the vehicle if there are any leaks.

Mike



Jon wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
> back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
> leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
> around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
> does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
> there.
>
> To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
> somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
> myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
> individual.... yet.
>
> The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
> fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
> discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
> ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
> engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
> with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
> engine light).
>
> Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
> fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
> biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
> the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
> on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
> like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
> don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
> way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
> starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.
>
> I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
> they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
> play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.
>
> Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
> nonsense.
>
>
>
> ~Jon
>
>
>
>

Mike Romain

The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the
shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with
a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U
shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the
frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are
the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side.

If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in
through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides
being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in
under the vehicle if there are any leaks.

Mike



Jon wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
> back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
> leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
> around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
> does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
> there.
>
> To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
> somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
> myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
> individual.... yet.
>
> The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
> fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
> discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
> ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
> engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
> with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
> engine light).
>
> Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
> fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
> biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
> the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
> on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
> like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
> don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
> way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
> starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.
>
> I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
> they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
> play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.
>
> Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
> nonsense.
>
>
>
> ~Jon
>
>
>
>

Mike Romain

The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the
shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with
a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U
shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the
frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are
the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side.

If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in
through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides
being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in
under the vehicle if there are any leaks.

Mike



Jon wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
> back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
> leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
> around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
> does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
> there.
>
> To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
> somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
> myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
> individual.... yet.
>
> The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
> fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
> discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
> ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
> engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
> with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
> engine light).
>
> Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
> fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
> biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
> the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
> on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
> like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
> don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
> way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
> starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.
>
> I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
> they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
> play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.
>
> Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
> nonsense.
>
>
>
> ~Jon
>
>
>
>

The Merg

I don't remember if the OP's Jeep was a CJ or YJ, but both the OEM
exhaust and the Gibson I have in my '93 exit between the gas tank skid
and passenger side shackle, the OEM angled downward, the Gibson straight
out.
It's a tight fit - when I first put the Gibson in, I broke the rearmost
hanger waaaayy up on the frame. I couldn't fix it right away, so I
drove around with the most god awful clanking for a while.

What you're describing sounds like the banging I had - check the hanger
all the way in the back, it attaches basically out the end of the tailpipe.

Mike Romain wrote:
> The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the
> shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with
> a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U
> shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the
> frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are
> the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side.
>
> If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in
> through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides
> being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in
> under the vehicle if there are any leaks.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Jon wrote:
>> Hello Mike,
>>
>> Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the
>> back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side
>> leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging
>> around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It
>> does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in
>> there.
>>
>> To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off
>> somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do
>> myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined
>> individual.... yet.
>>
>> The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic
>> fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to
>> discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went
>> ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the
>> engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down
>> with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check
>> engine light).
>>
>> Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the
>> fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no
>> biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and
>> the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or
>> on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was
>> like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really
>> don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no
>> way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my -------- meter
>> starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red.
>>
>> I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe
>> they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and
>> play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop.
>>
>> Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this
>> nonsense.
>>
>>
>>
>> ~Jon
>>
>>
>>
>>