engine sealing
04-23-2007, 02:22 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just
try to keep it from corroding after a swim.
--
Stupendous Man
Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice
04-23-2007, 02:22 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just
try to keep it from corroding after a swim.
--
Stupendous Man
Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice
04-23-2007, 02:22 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just
try to keep it from corroding after a swim.
--
Stupendous Man
Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice
04-23-2007, 09:31 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-23-2007, 09:31 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-23-2007, 09:31 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-23-2007, 09:31 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>and they work fine.
The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
04-23-2007, 09:42 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
04-23-2007, 09:42 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
04-23-2007, 09:42 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.
Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.
The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...
The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)