Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

That sounds like a ground fault or a short.

I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
rear shorted...

The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
loop on a stud.

The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
the fixtures on.

If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.

I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
happen.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Diagnos this one...:
> 1984 CJ7
> Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> parking/headlights are OFF
>
> When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
> not work at all when the lights are on.
>
> Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
> when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
> Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

That sounds like a ground fault or a short.

I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
rear shorted...

The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
loop on a stud.

The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
the fixtures on.

If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.

I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
happen.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Diagnos this one...:
> 1984 CJ7
> Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> parking/headlights are OFF
>
> When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
> not work at all when the lights are on.
>
> Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
> when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
> Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

That sounds like a ground fault or a short.

I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
rear shorted...

The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
loop on a stud.

The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
the fixtures on.

If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.

I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
happen.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Diagnos this one...:
> 1984 CJ7
> Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> parking/headlights are OFF
>
> When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
> not work at all when the lights are on.
>
> Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
> when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
> Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
>
> I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> rear shorted...
>
> The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> loop on a stud.
>
> The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> the fixtures on.
>
> If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
>
> I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> happen.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > Diagnos this one...:
> > 1984 CJ7
> > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > parking/headlights are OFF
> >
> > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
does
> > not work at all when the lights are on.
> >
> > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
on
> > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> >
> > Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
>
> I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> rear shorted...
>
> The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> loop on a stud.
>
> The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> the fixtures on.
>
> If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
>
> I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> happen.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > Diagnos this one...:
> > 1984 CJ7
> > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > parking/headlights are OFF
> >
> > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
does
> > not work at all when the lights are on.
> >
> > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
on
> > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> >
> > Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
>
> I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> rear shorted...
>
> The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> loop on a stud.
>
> The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> the fixtures on.
>
> If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
>
> I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> happen.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > Diagnos this one...:
> > 1984 CJ7
> > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > parking/headlights are OFF
> >
> > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
does
> > not work at all when the lights are on.
> >
> > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
on
> > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> >
> > Stranges damn thing.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.

As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
the ground wire to a better bit of body.

There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
(engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
checked, just for giggles.

The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
tail lights.

If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.



On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net wrote:

> I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
> the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
> 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
> more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> >
> > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> > rear shorted...
> >
> > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > loop on a stud.
> >
> > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > the fixtures on.
> >
> > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> >
> > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > happen.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > 1984 CJ7
> > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > >
> > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
> does
> > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > >
> > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
> on
> > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > >
> > > Stranges damn thing.
>
>
>

--
"doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
coverage and maximum profit potential."

Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.

As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
the ground wire to a better bit of body.

There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
(engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
checked, just for giggles.

The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
tail lights.

If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.



On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net wrote:

> I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
> the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
> 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
> more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> >
> > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> > rear shorted...
> >
> > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > loop on a stud.
> >
> > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > the fixtures on.
> >
> > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> >
> > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > happen.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > 1984 CJ7
> > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > >
> > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
> does
> > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > >
> > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
> on
> > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > >
> > > Stranges damn thing.
>
>
>

--
"doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
coverage and maximum profit potential."

Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.

As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
the ground wire to a better bit of body.

There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
(engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
checked, just for giggles.

The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
tail lights.

If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.



On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net wrote:

> I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good and
> the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from rewiring my
> 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do anything
> more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> >
> > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the left
> > rear shorted...
> >
> > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > loop on a stud.
> >
> > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > the fixtures on.
> >
> > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> >
> > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > happen.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > 1984 CJ7
> > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > >
> > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal
> does
> > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > >
> > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay
> on
> > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > >
> > > Stranges damn thing.
>
>
>

--
"doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
coverage and maximum profit potential."

Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.

Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
 

Good advice. When I first hauled my CJ5 out of the barn it had been in for
years only the headlights worked. Every marker light socket was corroded and
the front turn & rear tail light assys had at one time filled with water, so
they were corroded beyond belief. A bit of work with some scotch brite
cleaned them all up and they worked for a time, finally to be replaced with
all new light assys.
Every time I fixed one light, another started to work, so check 'em all out.

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.4.43.0310070954050.21038-100000@sea.ntplx.net...
>
> Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
> each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
> cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
> You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
> they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
> metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.
>
> As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
> the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
> check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
> so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
> the ground wire to a better bit of body.
>
> There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
> (engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
> firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
> checked, just for giggles.
>
> The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
> panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
> tail lights.
>
> If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
> probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
> bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
> and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
> the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.
>
>
>
> On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net
wrote:
>
> > I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good
and
> > the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> > front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from
rewiring my
> > 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> > screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> > ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do
anything
> > more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> > >
> > > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the
left
> > > rear shorted...
> > >
> > > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > > loop on a stud.
> > >
> > > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > > the fixtures on.
> > >
> > > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> > >
> > > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > > happen.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > > 1984 CJ7
> > > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > > >
> > > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn
signal
> > does
> > > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > > >
> > > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and
stay
> > on
> > > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > > >
> > > > Stranges damn thing.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
> as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
> coverage and maximum profit potential."
>
> Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.
>
>
>