tim bur

i have not seen in any posts giving a dtc for a tps issue
i have seen and replaced many a tps for a glitch in it's range causing all sorts of issues and some serious
testing with a drb and a dvom must take place
could be there is a couple of things going wrong though???
like the plug wires are shot. carbon on th valve thats causing a highway speed misfire and there was a tsb on
new valve springs for this issue and a weak battery
h



Stephen Cowell wrote:

> "reigelser" <reigelser@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:m7ore.757$aa2.19@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com.. .
> > I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
> > troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there has
> > to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk yard
> > before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same mileage).
> > It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try and
> > it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
> > kickdown.
>
> So it only throws a 24 code? Do you have a manual
> or automatic transmission? Any aftermarket parts
> on the engine? It's never thrown a 15 (VSS)? That
> causes kickdown problems too...
>
> With the TPS, you can actually patch a digital
> voltmeter in and watch the voltage as you drive...
> won't hurt a thing. If the computer's bad, then
> you'd expect the +V to the TPS to fluctuate...
> if the TPS is bad, you'd expect the wiper return
> voltage to be wrong for the rpm, gear, etc.
> That's what I'd do next...
> __
> Steve
> .

reigelser

I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump). With the engine
cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
before it comes up to 800 again.
I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40) and the ground cable:
seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.
I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Thanks

Jo


"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:9_Bre.732$kX4.538@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..

"reigelser" <reigelser@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:7%yre.858$aa2.546@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I crank
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and start
> again and runs immediately.

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and stable. I
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running yet.
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So
> would
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't cleaned
> in
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...

reigelser

I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump). With the engine
cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
before it comes up to 800 again.
I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40) and the ground cable:
seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.
I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Thanks

Jo


"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:9_Bre.732$kX4.538@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..

"reigelser" <reigelser@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:7%yre.858$aa2.546@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I crank
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and start
> again and runs immediately.

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and stable. I
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running yet.
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So
> would
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't cleaned
> in
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...

reigelser

I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump). With the engine
cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
before it comes up to 800 again.
I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40) and the ground cable:
seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.
I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Thanks

Jo


"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:9_Bre.732$kX4.538@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..

"reigelser" <reigelser@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:7%yre.858$aa2.546@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I crank
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and start
> again and runs immediately.

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and stable. I
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running yet.
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So
> would
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't cleaned
> in
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...

reigelser

I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump). With the engine
cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
before it comes up to 800 again.
I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40) and the ground cable:
seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.
I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Thanks

Jo


"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:9_Bre.732$kX4.538@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..

"reigelser" <reigelser@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:7%yre.858$aa2.546@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com. ..
> To start the car I have to crank it once for a short time. Even If I crank
> longer it won't start. Then I turn the ignition off completely and start
> again and runs immediately.

You may have more than one problem... try this
sometime... turn on the key, let the thing sit for
ten seconds, then crank... should go vroom.
It this is what you're seeing, you have a fuel
pressure retention problem... either the back-
check valve, or a leaky injector.

> There was no service done prior to the Check
> engine light coming on. The wiper voltage seems very smooth and stable. I
> haven't measured the supply voltage while having the engine running yet.
> Everything else seems to run good: idle speed, kick down response. So
> would
> you recommend an engine cleaning first (engine compartment wasn't cleaned
> in
> a loooong time) and then a rework of the connectors?
> Thanks for all of your advice.

I'm not that big of a believer in engine cleaning...
especially when trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Don't compound your problems right now.. sounds
to me like you've got more than one.

Is the big braided ground wire still connected
between the block and firewall? Look good?

Get some Caig ProGold contact cleaner (sold at Fry's)
and put some in the connector (both ends) for the
TPS... try again. I want to verify that you've cleared
the old ECU code, and it keeps popping a new one...
am I right? Does it pop immediately, or after normal
in-town driving, or only after exhibiting the symptoms
you describe at 60-70mph transition?
__
Steve
..


Lastly, you may have to go through several run/drive
cycles for the ECU to learn the curve of the new TPS...

DougW

reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).

Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.

> With the engine
> cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> before it comes up to 800 again.0

That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
go into braking mode.

> I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40)

WD-40 isn't a contact cleaner. Go to a local NAPA and get some
electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic. They make
two types, one is for cleaning alternators and you don't want that
one.

> and the ground cable:
> seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
> Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.

That's good.

> I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
> available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
> erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
> Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
> At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
> know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
> battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Recapping just a bit.

55 = end of codes
12 = battery disconnected within the last 50 power on/off cycles
and is only applicable if found with boatloads of other codes.
When you find it paired with lots of codes it is usually a bad
or loose battery cable. But it can indicate a faulty ground or
power wire to the PCM.
24 = Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable
voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.

With the ignition on, engine not running, backprobe the TPS.
One of the outer pins will have 5V on it. The other will have
zero. With the ignition OFF you should be able to probe between
the ground and the corresponding sensor grounds for the MAP, CPS, O2 sensor,
ECT and MAT sensors. Again, it helps to have the schematic with
your wire color codes. My 93 has black with light blue stripe as the
sensor grounds.

With the ignition ON, engine not running, measure the center pin.
Throttle closed > 200 milliVolts
Throttle wide open < 4.8 Volts
Anything in that range will adjust. The way you
adjust the TPS is by turning the key ON (engine not running)
then slowly cycle the throttle between full closed and full open
about 5-6 times. Then turn the ignition off.

See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.

Just like the TPS sensor, the map sensor has three pins
A,B,C

A = Ground
B = output (.5v with ignition on, engine off)
C = 5V

There is no easy way of testing this doodad.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).

Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.

> With the engine
> cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> before it comes up to 800 again.0

That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
go into braking mode.

> I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40)

WD-40 isn't a contact cleaner. Go to a local NAPA and get some
electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic. They make
two types, one is for cleaning alternators and you don't want that
one.

> and the ground cable:
> seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
> Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.

That's good.

> I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
> available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
> erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
> Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
> At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
> know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
> battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Recapping just a bit.

55 = end of codes
12 = battery disconnected within the last 50 power on/off cycles
and is only applicable if found with boatloads of other codes.
When you find it paired with lots of codes it is usually a bad
or loose battery cable. But it can indicate a faulty ground or
power wire to the PCM.
24 = Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable
voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.

With the ignition on, engine not running, backprobe the TPS.
One of the outer pins will have 5V on it. The other will have
zero. With the ignition OFF you should be able to probe between
the ground and the corresponding sensor grounds for the MAP, CPS, O2 sensor,
ECT and MAT sensors. Again, it helps to have the schematic with
your wire color codes. My 93 has black with light blue stripe as the
sensor grounds.

With the ignition ON, engine not running, measure the center pin.
Throttle closed > 200 milliVolts
Throttle wide open < 4.8 Volts
Anything in that range will adjust. The way you
adjust the TPS is by turning the key ON (engine not running)
then slowly cycle the throttle between full closed and full open
about 5-6 times. Then turn the ignition off.

See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.

Just like the TPS sensor, the map sensor has three pins
A,B,C

A = Ground
B = output (.5v with ignition on, engine off)
C = 5V

There is no easy way of testing this doodad.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).

Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.

> With the engine
> cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> before it comes up to 800 again.0

That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
go into braking mode.

> I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40)

WD-40 isn't a contact cleaner. Go to a local NAPA and get some
electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic. They make
two types, one is for cleaning alternators and you don't want that
one.

> and the ground cable:
> seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
> Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.

That's good.

> I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
> available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
> erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
> Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
> At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
> know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
> battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Recapping just a bit.

55 = end of codes
12 = battery disconnected within the last 50 power on/off cycles
and is only applicable if found with boatloads of other codes.
When you find it paired with lots of codes it is usually a bad
or loose battery cable. But it can indicate a faulty ground or
power wire to the PCM.
24 = Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable
voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.

With the ignition on, engine not running, backprobe the TPS.
One of the outer pins will have 5V on it. The other will have
zero. With the ignition OFF you should be able to probe between
the ground and the corresponding sensor grounds for the MAP, CPS, O2 sensor,
ECT and MAT sensors. Again, it helps to have the schematic with
your wire color codes. My 93 has black with light blue stripe as the
sensor grounds.

With the ignition ON, engine not running, measure the center pin.
Throttle closed > 200 milliVolts
Throttle wide open < 4.8 Volts
Anything in that range will adjust. The way you
adjust the TPS is by turning the key ON (engine not running)
then slowly cycle the throttle between full closed and full open
about 5-6 times. Then turn the ignition off.

See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.

Just like the TPS sensor, the map sensor has three pins
A,B,C

A = Ground
B = output (.5v with ignition on, engine off)
C = 5V

There is no easy way of testing this doodad.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).

Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.

> With the engine
> cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> before it comes up to 800 again.0

That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
go into braking mode.

> I checked the connectors (cleaned them with WD40)

WD-40 isn't a contact cleaner. Go to a local NAPA and get some
electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic. They make
two types, one is for cleaning alternators and you don't want that
one.

> and the ground cable:
> seem fine. Between engine block intake manifold and fire wall I measure ~0
> Ohm resistance, so the ground seems good.

That's good.

> I can not reset the error right know, because I don't have the reader
> available. But in the past I tried 50 times to reset the error and it is not
> erasable. Sometimes the light goes off, but comes back on immediately.
> Sometimes the device tells me, the error can't be erased.
> At the moment the Check ENgine Light readt out tells me 12, 24, 55. Don't
> know what 55 is, 12 means the PCM (or was it PMC) was disconnected from the
> battery. I am going to get the reader again to reset the error.

Recapping just a bit.

55 = end of codes
12 = battery disconnected within the last 50 power on/off cycles
and is only applicable if found with boatloads of other codes.
When you find it paired with lots of codes it is usually a bad
or loose battery cable. But it can indicate a faulty ground or
power wire to the PCM.
24 = Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable
voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.

With the ignition on, engine not running, backprobe the TPS.
One of the outer pins will have 5V on it. The other will have
zero. With the ignition OFF you should be able to probe between
the ground and the corresponding sensor grounds for the MAP, CPS, O2 sensor,
ECT and MAT sensors. Again, it helps to have the schematic with
your wire color codes. My 93 has black with light blue stripe as the
sensor grounds.

With the ignition ON, engine not running, measure the center pin.
Throttle closed > 200 milliVolts
Throttle wide open < 4.8 Volts
Anything in that range will adjust. The way you
adjust the TPS is by turning the key ON (engine not running)
then slowly cycle the throttle between full closed and full open
about 5-6 times. Then turn the ignition off.

See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.

Just like the TPS sensor, the map sensor has three pins
A,B,C

A = Ground
B = output (.5v with ignition on, engine off)
C = 5V

There is no easy way of testing this doodad.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Stephen Cowell

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.

I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..