Hi everyone,

I have a early-95 YJ with about 83K miles and I have a question about
the clutch. I have trouble getting out of first or reverse if I roll
to a stop in gear, and every now and then I have trouble getting into
first or reverse (most noticable in 4-low). I recently had a rebuilt
AX-15 installed (and used synthetic fluid) and I can't decide on (A)
the master or slave is failing and not pushing fully on the clutch
fork, or (B) a problem with the clutch fork or pressure plate. My
other question: I have an external slave cylinder, and I do not see
any bolts on the hydraulic hose running from master to slave (both
cylinders are Wagners). Would I have to replace the master, slave,
and hose as one piece? How would I bleed it?

Thank you!!!

 

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 23:06:27 UTC mhenry79@yahoo.com (Mike) wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I have a early-95 YJ with about 83K miles and I have a question about
> the clutch. I have trouble getting out of first or reverse if I roll
> to a stop in gear, and every now and then I have trouble getting into
> first or reverse (most noticable in 4-low). I recently had a rebuilt
> AX-15 installed (and used synthetic fluid) and I can't decide on (A)
> the master or slave is failing and not pushing fully on the clutch
> fork, or (B) a problem with the clutch fork or pressure plate. My
> other question: I have an external slave cylinder, and I do not see
> any bolts on the hydraulic hose running from master to slave (both
> cylinders are Wagners). Would I have to replace the master, slave,
> and hose as one piece? How would I bleed it?

Dealer will only sell you the assembly. I found the separate
cylinders at Advanced Auto, finally. The plastic hose between the
cylinders has a push-in connector on the ends. A small roll pin goes
through the mount on the cylinder to hold th hose in - fits the little
indentation in the hose connector. To bleed it, you loosen a small
hex screw down on the slave. I had the best result by removing the
slave cylinder so I could get at it easily. I rotated it so that it
pointed straight down (that lets an air in the cylinder rise to the
top where the bleed screw is). I had the wife up top pouring brake
fluid into the master and letting it run down until I got a steady
stream of fluid out of the bleed. Closed the bleed, worked the pedal
(slow down stroke, then take you foot off) until I got no more air.
Reinstalled the slave and it's been solid since. The fork can fall
off the pivot ball, but it's hard to do and you will have major
problems - hard to miss.

--
Will Honea

 

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 23:06:27 UTC mhenry79@yahoo.com (Mike) wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I have a early-95 YJ with about 83K miles and I have a question about
> the clutch. I have trouble getting out of first or reverse if I roll
> to a stop in gear, and every now and then I have trouble getting into
> first or reverse (most noticable in 4-low). I recently had a rebuilt
> AX-15 installed (and used synthetic fluid) and I can't decide on (A)
> the master or slave is failing and not pushing fully on the clutch
> fork, or (B) a problem with the clutch fork or pressure plate. My
> other question: I have an external slave cylinder, and I do not see
> any bolts on the hydraulic hose running from master to slave (both
> cylinders are Wagners). Would I have to replace the master, slave,
> and hose as one piece? How would I bleed it?

Dealer will only sell you the assembly. I found the separate
cylinders at Advanced Auto, finally. The plastic hose between the
cylinders has a push-in connector on the ends. A small roll pin goes
through the mount on the cylinder to hold th hose in - fits the little
indentation in the hose connector. To bleed it, you loosen a small
hex screw down on the slave. I had the best result by removing the
slave cylinder so I could get at it easily. I rotated it so that it
pointed straight down (that lets an air in the cylinder rise to the
top where the bleed screw is). I had the wife up top pouring brake
fluid into the master and letting it run down until I got a steady
stream of fluid out of the bleed. Closed the bleed, worked the pedal
(slow down stroke, then take you foot off) until I got no more air.
Reinstalled the slave and it's been solid since. The fork can fall
off the pivot ball, but it's hard to do and you will have major
problems - hard to miss.

--
Will Honea

 

Just a question....

Does it help to double clutch?

 

Just a question....

Does it help to double clutch?

 

I only see one clutch.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mark12211 wrote:
>
> Just a question....
>
> Does it help to double clutch?

 

I only see one clutch.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mark12211 wrote:
>
> Just a question....
>
> Does it help to double clutch?

 

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 03:25:19 UTC mark12211@aol.com (Mark12211) wrote:

> Just a question....
>
> Does it help to double clutch?

Help what? If it's bad syncros in the tranny, maybe. If it's clutch
throw, nope. With 83K I would have replaced the clutch disc at least,
probably the whole clutch, while I had the tranny out and called it
normal maintainance, especially if I had no idea of the history of the
Jeep. At 80k or so, you are likely at least half way through the
clutch life even with a good driver and it goes down fast from there.

One other possibility comes to mind. You said synthetic fluid - WHICH
synthetic and what weight? Depending on what the put in, it might be
worth your time to drain it and fill it with Redline specifically made
for trannies - some body want to help here: Redline MT???

--
Will Honea

 

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 03:25:19 UTC mark12211@aol.com (Mark12211) wrote:

> Just a question....
>
> Does it help to double clutch?

Help what? If it's bad syncros in the tranny, maybe. If it's clutch
throw, nope. With 83K I would have replaced the clutch disc at least,
probably the whole clutch, while I had the tranny out and called it
normal maintainance, especially if I had no idea of the history of the
Jeep. At 80k or so, you are likely at least half way through the
clutch life even with a good driver and it goes down fast from there.

One other possibility comes to mind. You said synthetic fluid - WHICH
synthetic and what weight? Depending on what the put in, it might be
worth your time to drain it and fill it with Redline specifically made
for trannies - some body want to help here: Redline MT???

--
Will Honea

 

It's only when sitting still that gives me problems coming out of
gear, and I've also noticed that this only seems to happen in first or
reverse.

I only had a problem going in to first or reverse on the trail in
4-low (and sometimes, engaging another gear and then shifting to first
or reverse, all while sitting still, helps). 2WD on the street, I
very rarely have a problem with any gear. And in either case, once
it's moving everything works fine.

I forgot to mention -- I did have a new Rhino-Pac clutch kit installed
also, at the same time as the transmission.

Good question on the fluid, I don't remember what was used... I will
find out.

By the way, I am very fast between gears, do I need to slow down my
shifting to let the syncros engage (will fast shifting hurt them)?

Thanks again!