Dual Battery YJ
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
With isolators you need to adjust the regulator for higher voltage
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
With isolators you need to adjust the regulator for higher voltage
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Suggest that you go to the www.amplepower.com website and lookup
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Suggest that you go to the www.amplepower.com website and lookup
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Suggest that you go to the www.amplepower.com website and lookup
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
isolators, combiners, equalizing, paralleling, etc.
Isolaters are quite obsolete technology. Running batteries in parallel
involves charging, etc. risks (when batteries are not equalized).
also go the www.balmar.com website for the same info as above.
The SIMPLE (cheapest) approach is to put in one BIG MOTHER of a battery
(AGM type if you can afford it) Also consider a battery that has more
'deep cycle' capability (heavier plates).
In article <lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com>, Jeepster
<yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote:
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Thanks guys .... It seems this is a lot more involved than I
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Thanks guys .... It seems this is a lot more involved than I
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Thanks guys .... It seems this is a lot more involved than I
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
originally thought it might be. I don't want to do a half assed job so
I might pass on this and place the battery in a warm place and maybe
swap it into my vehicle on occassion to keep it charged.
BTW..... Opinions please>
I just had my 87 YJ painted and I like the plain look (see my page)
with no decals or pinstriping on it, the wife says I should jazz it up
a bit.
What do you folks think?
My page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Agreed ... but :-) ... in the boating world for example, battery banks of
identical (same type, age, manufacturer) batteries are connected and charged
in parallel for weight distribution purposes, for increased amp-hours
purposes, for hot backup purposes ... so I figure if Jeepster does have two
identical batteries kicking around and could use the extra amp-hours, then
there would seem to be low risk running them in parallel.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415B17FF.F51D19D@sympatico.ca...
> You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
> into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
>
> Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
> One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
> literally over time.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows
both
> > batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting,
and
> > the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> > current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other
to
> > assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> > operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case,
why
> > not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested,
and
> > that's that.
> >
> > OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to
back
> > diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> > effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless
you've
> > got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that
question on
> > the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> > regulator?
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> > >
> > > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > > keep me busy. :)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > >
> > > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually
connected,
> > > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt
all
> > of
> > > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> > dual
> > > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> > isolater
> > > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12
ga,
> > only
> > > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are
disconnected
> > > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one
battery
> > and
> > > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt.
Some
> > > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't
need
> > all
> > > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> > batt
> > > >then two smaller.
> > > >Steve g.
> > > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we
put
> > > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to
deal
> > > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > > >> battery. :)
> > > >>
> > > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why
not
> > > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters
we
> > > >> get here in Alberta.
> > > >>
> > > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have
a
> > > >> spare battery.
> > > >>
> > > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > > >>
> > > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like
he
> > > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
identical (same type, age, manufacturer) batteries are connected and charged
in parallel for weight distribution purposes, for increased amp-hours
purposes, for hot backup purposes ... so I figure if Jeepster does have two
identical batteries kicking around and could use the extra amp-hours, then
there would seem to be low risk running them in parallel.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415B17FF.F51D19D@sympatico.ca...
> You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
> into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
>
> Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
> One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
> literally over time.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows
both
> > batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting,
and
> > the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> > current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other
to
> > assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> > operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case,
why
> > not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested,
and
> > that's that.
> >
> > OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to
back
> > diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> > effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless
you've
> > got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that
question on
> > the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> > regulator?
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> > >
> > > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > > keep me busy. :)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > >
> > > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually
connected,
> > > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt
all
> > of
> > > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> > dual
> > > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> > isolater
> > > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12
ga,
> > only
> > > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are
disconnected
> > > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one
battery
> > and
> > > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt.
Some
> > > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't
need
> > all
> > > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> > batt
> > > >then two smaller.
> > > >Steve g.
> > > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we
put
> > > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to
deal
> > > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > > >> battery. :)
> > > >>
> > > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why
not
> > > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters
we
> > > >> get here in Alberta.
> > > >>
> > > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have
a
> > > >> spare battery.
> > > >>
> > > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > > >>
> > > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like
he
> > > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
Agreed ... but :-) ... in the boating world for example, battery banks of
identical (same type, age, manufacturer) batteries are connected and charged
in parallel for weight distribution purposes, for increased amp-hours
purposes, for hot backup purposes ... so I figure if Jeepster does have two
identical batteries kicking around and could use the extra amp-hours, then
there would seem to be low risk running them in parallel.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415B17FF.F51D19D@sympatico.ca...
> You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
> into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
>
> Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
> One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
> literally over time.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows
both
> > batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting,
and
> > the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> > current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other
to
> > assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> > operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case,
why
> > not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested,
and
> > that's that.
> >
> > OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to
back
> > diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> > effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless
you've
> > got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that
question on
> > the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> > regulator?
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> > >
> > > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > > keep me busy. :)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > >
> > > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually
connected,
> > > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt
all
> > of
> > > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> > dual
> > > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> > isolater
> > > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12
ga,
> > only
> > > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are
disconnected
> > > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one
battery
> > and
> > > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt.
Some
> > > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't
need
> > all
> > > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> > batt
> > > >then two smaller.
> > > >Steve g.
> > > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we
put
> > > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to
deal
> > > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > > >> battery. :)
> > > >>
> > > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why
not
> > > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters
we
> > > >> get here in Alberta.
> > > >>
> > > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have
a
> > > >> spare battery.
> > > >>
> > > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > > >>
> > > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like
he
> > > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
identical (same type, age, manufacturer) batteries are connected and charged
in parallel for weight distribution purposes, for increased amp-hours
purposes, for hot backup purposes ... so I figure if Jeepster does have two
identical batteries kicking around and could use the extra amp-hours, then
there would seem to be low risk running them in parallel.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415B17FF.F51D19D@sympatico.ca...
> You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
> into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
>
> Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
> One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
> literally over time.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Bowgus wrote:
> >
> > My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows
both
> > batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting,
and
> > the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> > current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other
to
> > assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> > operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case,
why
> > not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested,
and
> > that's that.
> >
> > OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to
back
> > diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> > effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless
you've
> > got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that
question on
> > the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> > regulator?
> >
> > "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> > >
> > > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > > keep me busy. :)
> > >
> > > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> > >
> > > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually
connected,
> > > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt
all
> > of
> > > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> > dual
> > > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> > isolater
> > > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12
ga,
> > only
> > > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are
disconnected
> > > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one
battery
> > and
> > > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt.
Some
> > > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't
need
> > all
> > > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> > batt
> > > >then two smaller.
> > > >Steve g.
> > > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we
put
> > > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to
deal
> > > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > > >> battery. :)
> > > >>
> > > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why
not
> > > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters
we
> > > >> get here in Alberta.
> > > >>
> > > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have
a
> > > >> spare battery.
> > > >>
> > > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > > >>
> > > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like
he
> > > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >