Dual Battery YJ
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
keep me busy. :)
http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
<NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
>large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
>the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
>batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
>so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
>when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
>when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
>drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
>use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
>emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
>of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
>Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
>then two smaller.
>Steve g.
>"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
>news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
>> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
>> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
>> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
>> battery. :)
>>
>> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
>> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
>> get here in Alberta.
>>
>> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
>> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
>> spare battery.
>>
>> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
>> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
>>
>> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
>> did...just plain ugly imho.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
that's that.
OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
regulator?
"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
>
> After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> keep me busy. :)
>
> http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
>
> My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
>
>
>
> On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
>
> >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
of
> >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
dual
> >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
isolater
> >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
only
> >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
and
> >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
all
> >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
batt
> >then two smaller.
> >Steve g.
> >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> >> battery. :)
> >>
> >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> >> get here in Alberta.
> >>
> >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> >> spare battery.
> >>
> >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> >>
> >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
You just need a knife blade switch to turn the second battery's output
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
into a parallel starter feed when needed for a boost.
Charging two batteries in parallel isn't really good for long term use.
One always can take more than the other so one can get cooked dry
literally over time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Bowgus wrote:
>
> My interpretation of that isolator article and diagram ... it allows both
> batteries to charge alright, but one battery is used for say starting, and
> the other battery is used for other things ... e.g. a winch ... and ...
> current will not flow through the isolator from one battery to the other to
> assist with starting. My understanding, you want the two batteries to
> operate in parallel for extra starting capability. If that's the case, why
> not just connect both batteries in parallel as others have suggested, and
> that's that.
>
> OT: and the isolator looks to be solid state probably having a back to back
> diode setup with a diode drop (say minimum 0.7 V) to each battery
> effectively reducing the charging voltage at both batterys ... unless you've
> got remote sensing anon anon anon. Geez ... anyone remember that question on
> the final ... design a power supply ... using I think it was a 723
> regulator?
>
> "Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> news:lbekl0d7aibdm2jctra22mh66hqf7anm9t@4ax.com...
> > My intention with this is to have that little extra boost for starting
> > in cold weather. Where I live it can get down to -40C during the
> > winter and I work 12 hour shifts and many times after a shift I will
> > find that the breaker has tripped on the plug-ins at work.
> >
> > After a bit more Google groups searching tonight I found an old post
> > here and a simple circuit using an isolator..... this looks like it
> > might be the ticket for what I had in mind.
> > This isn't a necessity really but hell I have a spare battery that is
> > identical to one I have in my Jeep and both have been bought in the
> > last 6 months and to be quite frank I'm looking for a new project to
> > keep me busy. :)
> >
> > http://www.sierrajeep.com/basic.htm
> >
> > My Page: http://clubweb.interbaun.com/kb57/jeep/
> >
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 03:19:10 GMT, "Steve G"
> > <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote:
> >
> > >What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > >large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all
> of
> > >the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with
> dual
> > >batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery
> isolater
> > >so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga,
> only
> > >when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > >when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery
> and
> > >drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > >use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > >emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need
> all
> > >of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > >Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp
> batt
> > >then two smaller.
> > >Steve g.
> > >"Jeepster" <yj_driver@NOSPAM___.com> wrote in message
> > >news:k57kl0pskk9u9q0nvhbk9p7bmj1fvdk9jv@4ax.com.. .
> > >> My son just bought a 1999 TJ and it just so happens 2 weeks ago we put
> > >> a new battery in his old 93 YJ, the dealership was a real pain to deal
> > >> with so they are getting the trade vehicle with the old worn out
> > >> battery. :)
> > >>
> > >> Now I'm looking at this shiney new battery and thinking hell why not
> > >> install a dual battery setup to help during the very cold winters we
> > >> get here in Alberta.
> > >>
> > >> I have been looking at setups and some seem very complicated and
> > >> possibly prone to future problems and all I really want is to have a
> > >> spare battery.
> > >>
> > >> Has anyone ever used a setup like this one?
> > >> Will my stock alternator have enough jam to run a dual system?
> > >>
> > >> BTW I can't understand why he installed the switch on his dash like he
> > >> did...just plain ugly imho.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dual Battery YJ
With isolators you need to adjust the regulator for higher voltage
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.
output to overcome the resistance drop of the isolators..... otherwise
you will never get the batteries to full charge and ultimately the
batteries can quickly fail. Isolators are pretty old/obsolete
technology. Combiners (solenoid 'gang' systems) are a modern day
replacement for isolators and have no voltage drop to overcome; you can
do the same thing with a set of simple solenoids to control the
charging and then monitor with an accurate/calibrated volt meter - much
cheaper.
Best is to put both batteries in parallel as two batteries will last
much longer delivering the extra amperage than 2 batteries run from a
two position battery switch set to "both". Caveat to this you need to
be sure you 'equalize' the batteries (or install 2 brand new batteries)
so that their charge acceptance rates are exactly the same ... or only
one battery will do all the work. Equalizing requires that you bring
the charging voltage to a level that will cause the (we cell only - NOT
gel cell) batteries to 'rapidly off-gas' (boil) .... usually done with
a 'smart' external regulator. You can manually equalize a battery set;
but, you need to exactly follow the battery manufacturers specification
for equalization so that you dont warp the plates.
In article <415A2DD1.629924A3@***.net>, ßill <----------@***.net> wrote:
> Ditto, Plus even with isolators they want the batteries to be near
> equal to start.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > What exactly do you want to do? You can have them continually connected,
> > large cables pos tyo pos, neg to neg. You are drawing on both batt all of
> > the time and charging both all the time. Are you confusing this with dual
> > batt set up in Motorhomes/trucks with campers? Those use a battery isolater
> > so that the batteries are connected with a smaller gauge, 10 or 12 ga, only
> > when the vehicle is running so they charge together but are disconnected
> > when not running. This is so you can run the coach int off one battery and
> > drain it completely and still be able to start on the chassis batt. Some
> > use a solenoid on a button to connect the two via heavy cabling for
> > emergency boosting the chassis batt from the coach batt. You don't need all
> > of this. Just connect them together with heavy cabling.
> > Personally, I wouldn't bother. You're better off with one larger amp batt
> > then two smaller.
> > Steve g.