Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
reinstalled everything with a new seal.
The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.

Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side.

<snippies>

Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.

Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching.
Hard to tell without taking it apart.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side.

<snippies>

Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.

Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching.
Hard to tell without taking it apart.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side.

<snippies>

Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.

Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching.
Hard to tell without taking it apart.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side.

<snippies>

Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.

Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching.
Hard to tell without taking it apart.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
Sounds like if you rebuild the piston and lube the slide like Doug
suggested you'll be find. You know there will always be a drag with that
type of caliber. Drag racers need that horse power so convert to the two
piston or the four piston '68 Mustang calibers:
http://www.----------.com/68MustangCaliber.jpg Ask your local speed shop
for installation instructions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
Sounds like if you rebuild the piston and lube the slide like Doug
suggested you'll be find. You know there will always be a drag with that
type of caliber. Drag racers need that horse power so convert to the two
piston or the four piston '68 Mustang calibers:
http://www.----------.com/68MustangCaliber.jpg Ask your local speed shop
for installation instructions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
Sounds like if you rebuild the piston and lube the slide like Doug
suggested you'll be find. You know there will always be a drag with that
type of caliber. Drag racers need that horse power so convert to the two
piston or the four piston '68 Mustang calibers:
http://www.----------.com/68MustangCaliber.jpg Ask your local speed shop
for installation instructions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
Sounds like if you rebuild the piston and lube the slide like Doug
suggested you'll be find. You know there will always be a drag with that
type of caliber. Drag racers need that horse power so convert to the two
piston or the four piston '68 Mustang calibers:
http://www.----------.com/68MustangCaliber.jpg Ask your local speed shop
for installation instructions.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>

They looked like new.

> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
tell without taking it apart.>

Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
the way.
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>

They looked like new.

> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
tell without taking it apart.>

Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
the way.
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>

They looked like new.

> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
tell without taking it apart.>

Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
the way.
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>

They looked like new.

> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
tell without taking it apart.>

Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
the way.
> --
> DougW
>
>
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

As the other posters said: check the slides that let the caliper float
from side to side. There is supposed to be enough runout in the rotor to
tap the fixed side caliper away from the rotor, the puck side gets
moved out the same way. Stop at your local parts store and ask for the
special lube for the pins. Very high temp stuff, comes in a tiny squeeze
packet like ketchup at the fast food joint.

Jerry McG wrote:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

As the other posters said: check the slides that let the caliper float
from side to side. There is supposed to be enough runout in the rotor to
tap the fixed side caliper away from the rotor, the puck side gets
moved out the same way. Stop at your local parts store and ask for the
special lube for the pins. Very high temp stuff, comes in a tiny squeeze
packet like ketchup at the fast food joint.

Jerry McG wrote:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

As the other posters said: check the slides that let the caliper float
from side to side. There is supposed to be enough runout in the rotor to
tap the fixed side caliper away from the rotor, the puck side gets
moved out the same way. Stop at your local parts store and ask for the
special lube for the pins. Very high temp stuff, comes in a tiny squeeze
packet like ketchup at the fast food joint.

Jerry McG wrote:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

As the other posters said: check the slides that let the caliper float
from side to side. There is supposed to be enough runout in the rotor to
tap the fixed side caliper away from the rotor, the puck side gets
moved out the same way. Stop at your local parts store and ask for the
special lube for the pins. Very high temp stuff, comes in a tiny squeeze
packet like ketchup at the fast food joint.

Jerry McG wrote:
> Hey, I discovered today that the hybrid GM/Ford brakes on my front Dynatrac
> D44 are dragging slightly on the right side. I've been noticing over the
> past few weeks a tendency for the Jeep to drift to the right slightly.
> Figured I knocked something out of spec on the rocks. Today I drove it about
> 50 miles to the trails above Silverton, CO and it was acting unusually
> squirrelly on the mountain roads heading up there, pulling to the right. I
> started to wonder if a bearing was going in the right front, so when I got
> to town I put my hand on the right front hub and it was hot as Hell, while
> the left front was cool. I headed back home, pulled the r.f. wheel and found
> the right side pads worn about twice those on the left. All this wear seems
> to have happened in the last few weeks. I pulled the right front hub/rotor
> and the bearings were perfect. I went ahead and cleaned & repacked them and
> reinstalled everything with a new seal.
> The piston on the right front caliper seemed a bit hard to open up, so it
> seems it's applying ok, but not releasing completely. Oddly the brakes never
> pull one way or the other, always stop straight & true, no squeals, etc.
>
> Dynatrac said the calipers are for a 1971 - 78 Chevy/GMC K10/K20 pickup,
> while the rotors are from a '79 F250. Anyone ever had any trouble with these
> GM calipers? It's a real bummer, as the brakes have been great up until now
> and I can't figure what might have happened. The fluid is fresh and nothings
> been whacked. Any ideas are welcomed, as it is I'll head to the NAPA store
> for a rebuilt caliper tomorrow.
>
>

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
>> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>
>
> They looked like new.

The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
let you know quickly.

>> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
> when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
> tell without taking it apart.>
>
> Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
> or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
> the way.

Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the pad
and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually the
brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
>> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>
>
> They looked like new.

The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
let you know quickly.

>> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
> when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
> tell without taking it apart.>
>
> Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
> or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
> the way.

Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the pad
and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually the
brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
>> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>
>
> They looked like new.

The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
let you know quickly.

>> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
> when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
> tell without taking it apart.>
>
> Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
> or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
> the way.

Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the pad
and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually the
brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
>> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have notches.>
>
> They looked like new.

The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
let you know quickly.

>> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from returning
> when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard to
> tell without taking it apart.>
>
> Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't grab
> or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not all
> the way.

Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the pad
and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually the
brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:j5uMc.31982$SD3.19357@okepread06...
> Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> >> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have
notches.>
> >
> > They looked like new.
>
> The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
> one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
> let you know quickly.
>
> >> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from
returning
> > when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard
to
> > tell without taking it apart.>
> >
> > Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't
grab
> > or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not
all
> > the way.
>
> Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the
pad
> and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually
the
> brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.

The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
musta been pretty soft pads.

Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
sides.
The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)

Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:j5uMc.31982$SD3.19357@okepread06...
> Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> >> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have
notches.>
> >
> > They looked like new.
>
> The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
> one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
> let you know quickly.
>
> >> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from
returning
> > when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard
to
> > tell without taking it apart.>
> >
> > Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't
grab
> > or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not
all
> > the way.
>
> Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the
pad
> and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually
the
> brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.

The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
musta been pretty soft pads.

Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
sides.
The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)

Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:j5uMc.31982$SD3.19357@okepread06...
> Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> >> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have
notches.>
> >
> > They looked like new.
>
> The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
> one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
> let you know quickly.
>
> >> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from
returning
> > when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard
to
> > tell without taking it apart.>
> >
> > Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't
grab
> > or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not
all
> > the way.
>
> Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the
pad
> and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually
the
> brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.

The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
musta been pretty soft pads.

Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
sides.
The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)

Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:j5uMc.31982$SD3.19357@okepread06...
> Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> >> Check the caliper bolts/slides to see if they are worn and have
notches.>
> >
> > They looked like new.
>
> The wear is teeny tiny, just enough so the caliper tends to float to
> one side and drag the disc. run a fingernail along the slide, that will
> let you know quickly.
>
> >> Dirt or sludge in the caliper bore can prevent the piston from
returning
> > when you let off the brake. Or the piston seal could be catching. Hard
to
> > tell without taking it apart.>
> >
> > Must have gotten soemthing in the piston bore. Weird part is they don't
grab
> > or pull to the right when braking. I'm guessing they release but not
all
> > the way.
>
> Long shot, but if you wheel where it's muddy, dirt can build up behind the
pad
> and it won't retract properly, the heat then cooks the mud solid. Usually
the
> brake shield and tire rim keeps debris out.

I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.

The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
musta been pretty soft pads.

Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
sides.
The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)

Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
and jam too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
> in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
> from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
>
> The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
> pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
> glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
> out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
> on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
> musta been pretty soft pads.
>
> Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> sides.
> The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
> side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
> how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
>
> Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
> seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
> before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
and jam too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
> in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
> from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
>
> The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
> pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
> glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
> out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
> on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
> musta been pretty soft pads.
>
> Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> sides.
> The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
> side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
> how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
>
> Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
> seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
> before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
and jam too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
> in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
> from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
>
> The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
> pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
> glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
> out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
> on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
> musta been pretty soft pads.
>
> Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> sides.
> The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
> side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
> how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
>
> Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
> seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
> before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
and jam too.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it back
> in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled loose
> from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
>
> The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the drain
> pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into a
> glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud came
> out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as worn
> on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical thickness..weird,
> musta been pretty soft pads.
>
> Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> sides.
> The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the drivers
> side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box. Amazing
> how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
>
> Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine. Just
> seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything like it
> before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.

Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> and jam too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
back
> > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
loose
> > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> >
> > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
drain
> > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
a
> > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
came
> > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
worn
> > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
thickness..weird,
> > musta been pretty soft pads.
> >
> > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > sides.
> > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
drivers
> > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
Amazing
> > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> >
> > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
Just
> > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
e it
> > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.

Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> and jam too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
back
> > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
loose
> > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> >
> > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
drain
> > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
a
> > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
came
> > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
worn
> > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
thickness..weird,
> > musta been pretty soft pads.
> >
> > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > sides.
> > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
drivers
> > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
Amazing
> > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> >
> > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
Just
> > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
e it
> > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.

Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> and jam too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
back
> > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
loose
> > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> >
> > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
drain
> > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
a
> > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
came
> > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
worn
> > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
thickness..weird,
> > musta been pretty soft pads.
> >
> > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > sides.
> > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
drivers
> > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
Amazing
> > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> >
> > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
Just
> > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
e it
> > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.

Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> and jam too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
back
> > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
loose
> > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> >
> > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
drain
> > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
a
> > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
came
> > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
worn
> > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
thickness..weird,
> > musta been pretty soft pads.
> >
> > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > sides.
> > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
drivers
> > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
Amazing
> > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> >
> > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
Just
> > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
e it
> > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
The '78 Chrysler product I once worked on appeared to be metal, but
when I broke an edge trying to collapse it, the break was white plastic.
I can't venture a guess, maybe in your Chevy caliber, Ford rotor
mating. I remember some pads use a spring clip, that matched the
notches, so they wouldn't be a 180 out, others were riveted to the new
pads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> > If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> > and jam too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
> back
> > > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
> loose
> > > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> > >
> > > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
> drain
> > > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
> a
> > > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
> came
> > > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
> worn
> > > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
> thickness..weird,
> > > musta been pretty soft pads.
> > >
> > > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > > sides.
> > > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
> drivers
> > > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
> Amazing
> > > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> > >
> > > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
> Just
> > > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
> e it
> > > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
The '78 Chrysler product I once worked on appeared to be metal, but
when I broke an edge trying to collapse it, the break was white plastic.
I can't venture a guess, maybe in your Chevy caliber, Ford rotor
mating. I remember some pads use a spring clip, that matched the
notches, so they wouldn't be a 180 out, others were riveted to the new
pads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> > If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> > and jam too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
> back
> > > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
> loose
> > > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> > >
> > > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
> drain
> > > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
> a
> > > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
> came
> > > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
> worn
> > > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
> thickness..weird,
> > > musta been pretty soft pads.
> > >
> > > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > > sides.
> > > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
> drivers
> > > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
> Amazing
> > > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> > >
> > > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
> Just
> > > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
> e it
> > > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
The '78 Chrysler product I once worked on appeared to be metal, but
when I broke an edge trying to collapse it, the break was white plastic.
I can't venture a guess, maybe in your Chevy caliber, Ford rotor
mating. I remember some pads use a spring clip, that matched the
notches, so they wouldn't be a 180 out, others were riveted to the new
pads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> > If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> > and jam too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
> back
> > > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
> loose
> > > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> > >
> > > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
> drain
> > > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
> a
> > > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
> came
> > > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
> worn
> > > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
> thickness..weird,
> > > musta been pretty soft pads.
> > >
> > > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > > sides.
> > > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
> drivers
> > > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
> Amazing
> > > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> > >
> > > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
> Just
> > > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
> e it
> > > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Hi Jerry,
The '78 Chrysler product I once worked on appeared to be metal, but
when I broke an edge trying to collapse it, the break was white plastic.
I can't venture a guess, maybe in your Chevy caliber, Ford rotor
mating. I remember some pads use a spring clip, that matched the
notches, so they wouldn't be a 180 out, others were riveted to the new
pads.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Jerry McG wrote:
>
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:4103334C.1397426B@cox.net...
> > If the piston was plastic, get ready for the other side to swell
> > and jam too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Jerry McG wrote:
> > >
> > > I pulled the caliper today and the piston was frozen, I culdn't move it
> back
> > > in at all. Also, the anti-squeal shim on the fixed side pad had pulled
> loose
> > > from the pad backing plate and was slightly distorted.
> > >
> > > The fluid is new, however I found some small metal particles in the
> drain
> > > pan I put under it. I flushed a buch of fluid through the the line into
> a
> > > glass container and didn't find anything in it, so I assume the crud
> came
> > > out of the old caliper. Despite the fact that the paads were twidce as
> worn
> > > on the right side as the left, the rotors are identical
> thickness..weird,
> > > musta been pretty soft pads.
> > >
> > > Anyway, on went the new caliper from NAPA and a fres set of pads on both
> > > sides.
> > > The axles have been on there for over 20k miles and the pads on the
> drivers
> > > side were virtually identical thicjness to the ones out of the box.
> Amazing
> > > how litle work 3/4 ton brakes do ano a 1/4 tone vehicle. ;-)
> > >
> > > Drove it a lot today to bed in the new pads and everything seems fine.
> Just
> > > seems odd to me the thing semi-siezed like that. Never seen anything lik
> e it
> > > before.

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

I believe what goes in should match what comes out.
That clip helps pull the pad back and holds it to the
piston.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

I believe what goes in should match what comes out.
That clip helps pull the pad back and holds it to the
piston.

--
DougW

Re: Dragging front brakes. $#@!
 

Jerry McG did pass the time by typing:
> It appeared to be metal, as did the piston on the new one.
>
> Now, next questioon for GM experts: The old pads had a retailing spring clip
> that holds the piston side pads to the piston. There weren't any new ones in
> the box with the new pads, so I transferred the old ones. The clips push the
> pads ever so slightly past the edge of the rotor and I'm wondering if that
> clip is unnecessary. Stopped by my local Jeep / GMC dealer
> yesterday and they found that the factory had discontinued the clip as a
> replacement part. Hmmmm, maybe I shoulda tossed the clips, wadddya think?

I believe what goes in should match what comes out.
That clip helps pull the pad back and holds it to the
piston.

--
DougW