|
Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Hi All,
I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). Thanks TW --------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as
part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote in message news:efkjki$muv$1@lust.ihug.co.nz... Hi All, I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). Thanks TW --------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as
part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote in message news:efkjki$muv$1@lust.ihug.co.nz... Hi All, I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). Thanks TW --------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as
part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote in message news:efkjki$muv$1@lust.ihug.co.nz... Hi All, I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). Thanks TW --------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Hi Earle,
Thanks for a quick reply, I have also found the boots on Quadratec, who export to NZ (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16058_61.htm). At this price, I would try the local market on Monday first and see if I can find something similar. Freight from US would kill the price. I will also talk to my regular mechanic and see if he can do a favour and not charge much (normally he is really good). Thanks TW --- "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message news:451dd363$0$20251$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om... Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Hi Earle,
Thanks for a quick reply, I have also found the boots on Quadratec, who export to NZ (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16058_61.htm). At this price, I would try the local market on Monday first and see if I can find something similar. Freight from US would kill the price. I will also talk to my regular mechanic and see if he can do a favour and not charge much (normally he is really good). Thanks TW --- "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message news:451dd363$0$20251$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om... Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Hi Earle,
Thanks for a quick reply, I have also found the boots on Quadratec, who export to NZ (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16058_61.htm). At this price, I would try the local market on Monday first and see if I can find something similar. Freight from US would kill the price. I will also talk to my regular mechanic and see if he can do a favour and not charge much (normally he is really good). Thanks TW --- "Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message news:451dd363$0$20251$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om... Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on http://shopping.yahoo.com/ I put a set of these on a Toyota Land Cruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also looked quite stylish. If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit. Earle |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.
I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across
something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use it. I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue hmm..... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Will Honea wrote: > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > Thanks > > TW > > --------- > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use it. I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue hmm..... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Will Honea wrote: > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > Thanks > > TW > > --------- > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but
know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use it. I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue hmm..... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Will Honea wrote: > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > Thanks > > TW > > --------- > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
TW wrote:
> Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
TW wrote:
> Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
TW wrote:
> Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > it. > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > hmm..... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > Thanks > > > TW > > > --------- > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > it. > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > hmm..... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > Thanks > > > TW > > > --------- > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market
replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > it. > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > hmm..... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > wrote: > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > Thanks > > > TW > > > --------- > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an old one. Mike Will Honea wrote: > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > it. > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > hmm..... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > TW > > > > --------- > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Will Honea > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an old one. Mike Will Honea wrote: > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > it. > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > hmm..... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > TW > > > > --------- > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Will Honea > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Thanks, that's good to know.
I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an old one. Mike Will Honea wrote: > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > wrote: > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > it. > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > hmm..... > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > TW > > > > --------- > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Will Honea > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Thanks, that's good to know. > > I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued > into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it > while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should > clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an > old one. > > Mike > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > > wrote: > > > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > > it. > > > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > > hmm..... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > TW > > > > > --------- > > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Will Honea > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Thanks, that's good to know. > > I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued > into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it > while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should > clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an > old one. > > Mike > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > > wrote: > > > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > > it. > > > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > > hmm..... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > TW > > > > > --------- > > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Will Honea > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at
the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 14:32:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Thanks, that's good to know. > > I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued > into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it > while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should > clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an > old one. > > Mike > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market > > replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was > > a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together > > while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with > > mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when > > working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 > > years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker. > > > > Just for info, the original yarget use for super glue was for bonding > > rubber parts. I think that getting a used, torn boot clean enough > > then applying enough pressure durinb cure would be really hard. I > > have no idea how this plumbing repair taper would work here but I was > > inpressed by the bond to ABS, PVC, and cast iron pipe. I'll probably > > play with it next time I need a quick and dirty repair. > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:00:59 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> > > wrote: > > > > > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but > > > know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the > > > TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use > > > it. > > > > > > I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip > > > adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots > > > around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue > > > hmm..... > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > > > > > I was doing some plumbing repairs the other day and came across > > > > something that might work for a while if you can get the outside of > > > > the boot clean. It's a rubber "tape" that self-cures after you get it > > > > on. Plenty flexible, the layers appear to literally grow together and > > > > conform to the surface. Looks like a potential repair for split boots > > > > as it cures really tough but still flexible. For the couple of bucks > > > > they get for it, it would be worth a try. An imporved duct tape? <g>. > > > > > > > > On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 02:09:25 UTC "TW" <attw@wave.co.nz (delete this)> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > > > > > > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > > > > > > > > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > TW > > > > > --------- > > > > > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > > > > > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Will Honea > > > > -- > > Will Honea -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Will Honea wrote: > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Will Honea wrote: > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
You got to be related to my Dad:
http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto:-------------------- Will Honea wrote: > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote: > You got to be related to my Dad: > http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote: > You got to be related to my Dad: > http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Bill, the BMFH has been around longer than the two of us combined <g>.
On Mon, 2 Oct 2006 02:21:42 UTC "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote: > You got to be related to my Dad: > http://www.----------.com/dadjeep.jpg > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O > mailto:-------------------- > > Will Honea wrote: > > > > As thin as the walls on those knuckle boots is, I would first look at > > the obvious "fix". A long strip of inner tube patch, a tube of Monkey > > patch glue, and a scraper/snadpaper to roughen the surfaces should > > work, then a pair of pliers to squeeze the patch tight. I haven't > > tried using a match to melt the patch on lately, but that used to give > > a super bond on tractor tubes. Get the patch in place, light the > > glue, then blow it out as the edges start to bubble. Press it down > > tight as it cools and you'll tear the rubber before it will separate > > (a dead blow hammer was standard for "pressing" the bigger ones <g>). -- Will Honea |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather). TW "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11... TW wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather). TW "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11... TW wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near Europe....
Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my hands greasy in the wet weather). TW "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:7VxTg.13139$iA5.1992@dukeread11... TW wrote: > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) > and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has > cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is > clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks > about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for > changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want > to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is > only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond. Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out. http://www.revbeergoggles.com/balljoint1/ Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess. -- DougW |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca... I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot. I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca... I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot. I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
Re: Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ
My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.
TW "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:451E7848.28E741F6@sympatico.ca... I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot. I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) TW wrote: > > Hi All, > > I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot). > > BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand). > > Thanks > TW > --------- > '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44 > 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:24 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands