Double Clutching?
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Those trucks are still running the logging trails.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Those trucks are still running the logging trails.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Those trucks are still running the logging trails.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> In the good (bad?) old days I drove an old '29 Chevy ton and half farm
> truck with heilical cut gears but no synchos on top of lousy brakes. If
> you wanted to stop, you hit the downshift with good double clutching. No
> downshift, no stop. But at least the chevy tranny had helical cut gears,
> the equivilent Ford had straight cuts, even worse to shift.
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
highly stressed gears than a manual...
For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
weak).
If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
Cheers, Clax.
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Jeep only recommended the ATF for the first year of that tranny.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Jeep only recommended the ATF for the first year of that tranny.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
Jeep only recommended the ATF for the first year of that tranny.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
They then went back to recommending the proper API GL4 SAE 80W90 gear
oil.
You really have to watch out that the oil isn't GL5 'compatible' and
that it has no limited slip additive. If it is GL5 compatible, you will
fast lose the syncro in 3rd, then 2nd, then reverse, then all of them.
If you switch back, the shifting will come back proper.
I am using a semi synthetic gear oil, only because it was 'all' the
store had without the GL5 'compatible' or LS additive.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Clax wrote:
>
> The T-5 in it's latest guises was only ever designed for up to 4,500rpm
> upshifts. It'll still shift at higher engine speeds, but will start to
> really baulk and can't be hurried (try flat shifting at 6,200rpm and it
> becomes really obvious). I was recently involved with "updating" this trans
> for a Ford of Australia performance vehicle program, and it wasn't a good
> choice for a turbocharged 4.0ltr inline punching out 320Bhp @ 5,500 and 330
> ft.lbs. We've now replaced it with a T-56 with monster synchros. However,
> it's a great little 'box for understressed Jeep engines at lowish shift
> speeds. The synchros are tiny compared with more modern designs and lack
> capacity. Take it a bit easy and it'll last forever, gorrilla shift it
> everywhere and you'll burn out the synchros for sure, bend the forks and
> chew out the pads. Oil viscosity has a massive effect on shiftability (esp
> in cold climates) - my recommendation is to run a good quality synthetic ATF
> ("Castrol Transmax Z" or "Mobil 1" for example) as this gives better gear
> and bearing protection than mineral "gear" oils, runs cooler, more
> efficiently, and lasts longer. Remember that an auto has smaller, more
> highly stressed gears than a manual...
>
> For general driving double-clutching isn't really required, but it's still a
> good idea if you want to skip down-shift (say 5-3 or 4-2, etc) as it makes
> the shift easier and faster, with less wear (and it's fun to do and
> satisfying to get just right). Also a good idea if you're down-shifting to
> 1st when still rolling at anything much over jogging pace. Also, take it
> easy on shift up-shifts (esp into 5th as the 5th gear synchro is especially
> weak).
>
> If you've got a 'box like mine where the previous owner was a brain-dead
> gorilla, you quickly learn how to rev-match when shifting (esp as the
> synchros are completely gone on 3rd and not much better on 2nd and 1st).
>
> Cheers, Clax.
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Double Clutching?
"SteveBrady" <steve.brady@(remove this)rogers.com> wrote in message
news:DdGdncPV9PKhq8bcRVn-qQ@rogers.com...
> gotta get good at it to be fast at it I guess.
>
> Was this what had to be done on manual trannys from back in teh day?
>
Yes, it is something that is a throwback to back-in-the-day. Syncronizers
have removed the need to learn to double clutch.
If you watch the old Steve McQueen movies, Bullitt in particular, he is
driving around in his Mustang beign chased by the bad guys, and he is double
clutching. The problem is, one would normally jab the gas pedal a lick on
the downshift, not on upshifts. Another problem is, the Mustang he is
driving came equipped with a fully syncronized manual transmission, and
there is no need to double clutch at all, shifting either up or down. Having
said that, one might want to jab at the gas pedal a lick on the downshift to
raise the engine speed so the motor and the rest of the drive train are all
going the same speed when the clutch is released, this little jab at the gas
makes the downshift smoother, but is not required by the mechanical stuff,
and does not require an extra cycle of the clutch pedal.