Re: DOH brakes!
DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem. tw |
Re: DOH brakes!
DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem. tw |
Re: DOH brakes!
DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem. tw |
Re: DOH brakes!
The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it. I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!) to get the brakes to quit grabbing. DougW wrote: > RoyJ wrote: >> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between >> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. > > Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but > the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some > replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads > ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. > Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I > did brake work. > > Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter > grease or silicone, but that's all I had. > > I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't > that much over the lifetime. > > Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and > gaskets, or at least gaskets. > |
Re: DOH brakes!
The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it. I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!) to get the brakes to quit grabbing. DougW wrote: > RoyJ wrote: >> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between >> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. > > Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but > the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some > replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads > ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. > Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I > did brake work. > > Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter > grease or silicone, but that's all I had. > > I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't > that much over the lifetime. > > Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and > gaskets, or at least gaskets. > |
Re: DOH brakes!
The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it. I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!) to get the brakes to quit grabbing. DougW wrote: > RoyJ wrote: >> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between >> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. > > Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but > the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some > replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads > ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. > Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I > did brake work. > > Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter > grease or silicone, but that's all I had. > > I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't > that much over the lifetime. > > Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and > gaskets, or at least gaskets. > |
Re: DOH brakes!
The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it. I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!) to get the brakes to quit grabbing. DougW wrote: > RoyJ wrote: >> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between >> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems. > > Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but > the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some > replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads > ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. > Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I > did brake work. > > Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter > grease or silicone, but that's all I had. > > I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't > that much over the lifetime. > > Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and > gaskets, or at least gaskets. > |
Re: DOH brakes!
"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx... > Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. > > Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision. > > > Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor > on > the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit, > clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout > units. > The old Chevy was stamped tin. > > That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly > bits and springs. > > So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and > got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts. > Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's > thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of > surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh! > > Left side was about 3mm on both pads. > > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back > in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > > -- > DougW I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little springs on. |
Re: DOH brakes!
"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx... > Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. > > Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision. > > > Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor > on > the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit, > clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout > units. > The old Chevy was stamped tin. > > That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly > bits and springs. > > So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and > got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts. > Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's > thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of > surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh! > > Left side was about 3mm on both pads. > > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back > in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > > -- > DougW I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little springs on. |
Re: DOH brakes!
"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx... > Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long. > > Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision. > > > Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor > on > the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit, > clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout > units. > The old Chevy was stamped tin. > > That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly > bits and springs. > > So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and > got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts. > Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's > thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of > surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh! > > Left side was about 3mm on both pads. > > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back > in. > Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was > one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up. > > Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going > to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just > too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder. > > -- > DougW I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little springs on. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:41 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands