So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
the problem. Thanks Mike.

Scott

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> the cap rather than in their center.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Foot Loose wrote:
> >
> > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
stock
> > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
flow is
> > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
that is
> > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
one
> > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
cap
> > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
in
> > advance for any advice.
> >
> > Scott
> > 90YJ

 

So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
the problem. Thanks Mike.

Scott

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> the cap rather than in their center.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Foot Loose wrote:
> >
> > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
stock
> > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
flow is
> > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
that is
> > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
one
> > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
cap
> > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
in
> > advance for any advice.
> >
> > Scott
> > 90YJ

 

So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
the problem. Thanks Mike.

Scott

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> the cap rather than in their center.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Foot Loose wrote:
> >
> > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
stock
> > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
flow is
> > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
that is
> > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
one
> > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
cap
> > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
in
> > advance for any advice.
> >
> > Scott
> > 90YJ

 

Scott:

I once had a GM cap with a cracked carbon button that drove me nuts
for months. The crack was hidden up past where the button sticks out
and was not noticable by me and two other mechanics. One day I finally
PULLED on the button instead of my usual test of pushing against the
spring pressure and, lo and behold, half the button fell out into my
hand. Is it possible that you have a cracked carbon button that
reseats itself when you reseat the whole cap?

J Painter




"Foot Loose" <footloose61@ NOSPAM hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<41066f48$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my stock
> distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas flow is
> good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once that is
> done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This one
> has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the cap
> but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks in
> advance for any advice.
>
> Scott
> 90YJ

 

Scott:

I once had a GM cap with a cracked carbon button that drove me nuts
for months. The crack was hidden up past where the button sticks out
and was not noticable by me and two other mechanics. One day I finally
PULLED on the button instead of my usual test of pushing against the
spring pressure and, lo and behold, half the button fell out into my
hand. Is it possible that you have a cracked carbon button that
reseats itself when you reseat the whole cap?

J Painter




"Foot Loose" <footloose61@ NOSPAM hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<41066f48$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my stock
> distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas flow is
> good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once that is
> done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This one
> has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the cap
> but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks in
> advance for any advice.
>
> Scott
> 90YJ

 

Scott:

I once had a GM cap with a cracked carbon button that drove me nuts
for months. The crack was hidden up past where the button sticks out
and was not noticable by me and two other mechanics. One day I finally
PULLED on the button instead of my usual test of pushing against the
spring pressure and, lo and behold, half the button fell out into my
hand. Is it possible that you have a cracked carbon button that
reseats itself when you reseat the whole cap?

J Painter




"Foot Loose" <footloose61@ NOSPAM hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<41066f48$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my stock
> distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas flow is
> good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once that is
> done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This one
> has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the cap
> but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks in
> advance for any advice.
>
> Scott
> 90YJ

 

Scott:

I once had a GM cap with a cracked carbon button that drove me nuts
for months. The crack was hidden up past where the button sticks out
and was not noticable by me and two other mechanics. One day I finally
PULLED on the button instead of my usual test of pushing against the
spring pressure and, lo and behold, half the button fell out into my
hand. Is it possible that you have a cracked carbon button that
reseats itself when you reseat the whole cap?

J Painter




"Foot Loose" <footloose61@ NOSPAM hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<41066f48$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net>...
> I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my stock
> distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas flow is
> good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once that is
> done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This one
> has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the cap
> but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks in
> advance for any advice.
>
> Scott
> 90YJ

 

No, I don't think so. That wouldn't make any difference, it only clocks
the distributor position.

I am thinking the rotor is physically too short in height so it isn't
hitting in the center of the distributor cap contacts.

If this is so, the contacts in the cap will be electric burned at the
very bottoms of them.

Or I am thinking the rotor is too short on the arm causing it to arc out
the center of the cap contacts. When you raise the cap, you could be
knocking some crud loose or letting the rotor raise up a bit maybe
allowing enough spark to fire her up.

Once it is running, a weak spark signal will still run, but cold it
isn't enough to fire it up.

I would be opening the cap and having a close look at the arc patterns
on the cap contacts.

I got an expensive Accel cap and rotor set and they arced out is a
couple weeks. The rotor arm was physically too short so the big gap
caused the contacts to just fry. It was also a bugger to cold or damp
start.

Mike

Foot Loose wrote:
>
> So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
> new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
> the problem. Thanks Mike.
>
> Scott
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> > My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> > good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> > the cap rather than in their center.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Foot Loose wrote:
> > >
> > > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
> stock
> > > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
> flow is
> > > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
> that is
> > > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
> one
> > > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
> cap
> > > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
> in
> > > advance for any advice.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > 90YJ

 

No, I don't think so. That wouldn't make any difference, it only clocks
the distributor position.

I am thinking the rotor is physically too short in height so it isn't
hitting in the center of the distributor cap contacts.

If this is so, the contacts in the cap will be electric burned at the
very bottoms of them.

Or I am thinking the rotor is too short on the arm causing it to arc out
the center of the cap contacts. When you raise the cap, you could be
knocking some crud loose or letting the rotor raise up a bit maybe
allowing enough spark to fire her up.

Once it is running, a weak spark signal will still run, but cold it
isn't enough to fire it up.

I would be opening the cap and having a close look at the arc patterns
on the cap contacts.

I got an expensive Accel cap and rotor set and they arced out is a
couple weeks. The rotor arm was physically too short so the big gap
caused the contacts to just fry. It was also a bugger to cold or damp
start.

Mike

Foot Loose wrote:
>
> So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
> new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
> the problem. Thanks Mike.
>
> Scott
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> > My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> > good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> > the cap rather than in their center.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Foot Loose wrote:
> > >
> > > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
> stock
> > > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
> flow is
> > > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
> that is
> > > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
> one
> > > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
> cap
> > > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
> in
> > > advance for any advice.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > 90YJ

 

No, I don't think so. That wouldn't make any difference, it only clocks
the distributor position.

I am thinking the rotor is physically too short in height so it isn't
hitting in the center of the distributor cap contacts.

If this is so, the contacts in the cap will be electric burned at the
very bottoms of them.

Or I am thinking the rotor is too short on the arm causing it to arc out
the center of the cap contacts. When you raise the cap, you could be
knocking some crud loose or letting the rotor raise up a bit maybe
allowing enough spark to fire her up.

Once it is running, a weak spark signal will still run, but cold it
isn't enough to fire it up.

I would be opening the cap and having a close look at the arc patterns
on the cap contacts.

I got an expensive Accel cap and rotor set and they arced out is a
couple weeks. The rotor arm was physically too short so the big gap
caused the contacts to just fry. It was also a bugger to cold or damp
start.

Mike

Foot Loose wrote:
>
> So you think I might have been off a tooth on the gear when I installed the
> new distributor? I'm gona pull it out and reinstall to see if it will fix
> the problem. Thanks Mike.
>
> Scott
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:410672B6.52E20502@sympatico.ca...
> > My guess is you have a miss match on the cap and rotor. I would have a
> > good look and see if the spark is arcing at the very edge of the pins in
> > the cap rather than in their center.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Foot Loose wrote:
> > >
> > > I got a problem that has been kickin my a## for awhile. I replace my
> stock
> > > distributor on my 258 with a HEI, the original cap got cracked and I
> > > replaced it and the rotor. Ever since the Jeep is hard to start. Gas
> flow is
> > > good, the only way to get it to start is to lift the cap off the
> > > distributor, not all the way off but just a little and replace. Once
> that is
> > > done it cranks right up. I don't have to rotate it just undo the 4 hold
> > > downs and lift it. Both the cap and rotor show no signs of wear. This
> one
> > > has me baffled, I've heard of spraying WD-40 once water gets into the
> cap
> > > but all I do is lift the cap and replace and I'm off and running. Thanks
> in
> > > advance for any advice.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > 90YJ