L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg

Yep. Those are them.

Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.

 

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them
apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the
bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the
push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to
remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on
most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the
striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be
expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders.
If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for
the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip
of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
being more than this old wreck is worth.

 

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them
apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the
bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the
push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to
remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on
most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the
striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be
expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders.
If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for
the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip
of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
being more than this old wreck is worth.

 

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them
apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the
bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the
push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to
remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on
most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the
striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be
expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders.
If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for
the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip
of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
being more than this old wreck is worth.

 

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them
apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the
bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the
push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to
remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on
most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the
striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be
expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders.
If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for
the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip
of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
being more than this old wreck is worth.

 

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> ... I only want to extract the broken tip
> of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
> Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
> Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
> being more than this old wreck is worth.

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one
there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key
out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the
old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way
and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface.
There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

--
DougW

 

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> ... I only want to extract the broken tip
> of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
> Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
> Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
> being more than this old wreck is worth.

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one
there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key
out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the
old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way
and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface.
There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

--
DougW

 

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> ... I only want to extract the broken tip
> of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
> Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
> Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
> being more than this old wreck is worth.

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one
there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key
out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the
old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way
and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface.
There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

--
DougW

 

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> ... I only want to extract the broken tip
> of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
> Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
> Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
> being more than this old wreck is worth.

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one
there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key
out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the
old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way
and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface.
There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

--
DougW