disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
06-15-2005, 06:45 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
06-15-2005, 06:45 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
06-15-2005, 06:45 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?
Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...
Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.
--
DougW
06-15-2005, 07:18 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
Hi Doug,
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
06-15-2005, 07:18 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
Hi Doug,
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
06-15-2005, 07:18 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
Hi Doug,
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
06-15-2005, 07:18 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
Hi Doug,
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW
06-15-2005, 07:29 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.
06-15-2005, 07:29 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.
06-15-2005, 07:29 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?
L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.----------.com/keylock.jpg
Yep. Those are them.
Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.