Dimmer switch problem?
11-10-2006, 01:50 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
(Failure to follow posting direction repaired. Standard charge:
two-fifty.)
Yes, the headlight breaker is thermal actuated and is self resetting.
Yes, no electrical short is cured by higher-rated over-current devices.
No, replacing a thermal breaker can cure an electrical problem if the
problem is the breaker itself. Breakers can age out and become "soft".
The OP stated that the headlights went out briefly when he switched from
low to high beams. This is a symptom of a bad dimmer switch and is a
common problem in CJs.
An overload on the head lamp breaker will cause it to cycle continuously
while overloaded, not blink once only when switching from low to high.
Yes, his problem is simple, but you misinterpreted the symptoms for
something more complex.
On Fri, 10 Nov 2006, Gene wrote:
> The thermal switch is a self resetting circuit breaker,
> no electrical problem was ever cured, by a larger fuse, in a fused
> circuit!
> nor a new thermal switch (which is part of the headlight switch)
> it was stated in the 1st mess. that the lights went out, then came back
> on.Too much load!plain and simple..find the problem.
> 75 CJ-5 original owner...
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
>> Ditto.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>>
>>> My money is on the dimmer switch itself.
>
>
--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.
two-fifty.)
Yes, the headlight breaker is thermal actuated and is self resetting.
Yes, no electrical short is cured by higher-rated over-current devices.
No, replacing a thermal breaker can cure an electrical problem if the
problem is the breaker itself. Breakers can age out and become "soft".
The OP stated that the headlights went out briefly when he switched from
low to high beams. This is a symptom of a bad dimmer switch and is a
common problem in CJs.
An overload on the head lamp breaker will cause it to cycle continuously
while overloaded, not blink once only when switching from low to high.
Yes, his problem is simple, but you misinterpreted the symptoms for
something more complex.
On Fri, 10 Nov 2006, Gene wrote:
> The thermal switch is a self resetting circuit breaker,
> no electrical problem was ever cured, by a larger fuse, in a fused
> circuit!
> nor a new thermal switch (which is part of the headlight switch)
> it was stated in the 1st mess. that the lights went out, then came back
> on.Too much load!plain and simple..find the problem.
> 75 CJ-5 original owner...
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
>> Ditto.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>>
>>> My money is on the dimmer switch itself.
>
>
--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.
11-10-2006, 01:58 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
11-10-2006, 01:58 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
11-10-2006, 01:58 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Lee Ayrton wrote:
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
> I remember the feeling well.
>
> You've got corrosion at the dimmer switch, either at the connector or
> within the switch itself. I've had it happen on my `79 CJ5 a couple
> of times. I let mine go for too long once and had a little smokey
> fire going where the harness meets the connector -- a little scary at
> highway speeds.
> The switch is easy to replace: two screws, perhaps driven into plastic
> blocks set in the floor on yours, and a 3-wire harness connector.
> Examine the connector carefully, clean/replace/rebuild as needed.
> Wirebrushing away corrosion is only a stopgap fix because the rust
> comes back now that the plating is gone. Pack the connector full of
> bulb grease when you reassemble to slow the decay down. If you take
> the wires out of the connector be sure to label them so you can put
> them back the right way after lunch.
>
> Because aftermarket electrical parts can be crappy, as Mike notes,
> buy the best you can and figure on replacing the thing every couple
> of years.
I got tired of that damn switch on my C-10 Chevy and replaced it
with a dash mounted switch.
It's just a simple two way switch (SPDT) and can easily be
replaced by a 120vac paddle switch from RadioShack. Just get
an amperage greater than the fuse rating. :)
Your looking for one that has ON-ON without a center off
and three tabs on the back.
--
DougW
11-10-2006, 02:04 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred thousand
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
11-10-2006, 02:04 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred thousand
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
11-10-2006, 02:04 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred thousand
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch that begins to
rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come back on.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The dimmer switch is the problem.
>
> If it was the thermal breaker, the lights would continue to flash on and
> off. Been there, more than once. This wouldn't 'only' happen while he
> was hitting the dimmer switch.
>
> Mine go bad 'exactly' as he describes.
>
> 'Real' easy to test, just put on the highbeams and watch. If the
> breaker is going, it will start flashing for sure.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
11-10-2006, 02:16 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
11-10-2006, 02:16 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
11-10-2006, 02:16 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dimmer switch problem?
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
> Exactly. I've gone threw a floor switch about ever hundred
> thousand miles in my Bronco, something must rotate in that switch
> that begins to rotate slower and slower, until the light don't come
The guts of that switch are almost exactly like those in a ballpoint
pen. Each time you press it turns and eventually the whole thing
wears out.
