Mike Romain

Ahh, so they sound like they are charging you to remove the engine to do
the seal change...

It 'can' be done from the bottom in the driveway. It is a good half
day's job for an amateur wrencher. A couple hours for an experienced
one. (the gasket clean on the oil pan can be the hardest part)

Before you think more on this, you should do yourself a favor and check
for the 'normal' cause of a 'rear main seal' leak. Nope, it isn't
'normally' the seal.

Start the engine up and run it for a bit, then take a clean rag and wipe
it around the back of the engine head just below the valve cover by the
firewall.

If the rag comes out with oil on it, you have found the leak.

The valve covers are really prone to leaking and because the engine is
tilted, the oil runs down the back of the engine. The bell housing has
a hole at the top and the oil just runs right straight down doing a real
sweet imitation of a blown rear seal.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

obirer wrote:
>
> Well, here is what says in the estimate;
>
> Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> rear main oil seal $10.00
> oil pan gasket $40.00
> oil and filter: $25.00
>
> I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> seal, is it not?
>
> Is $700 still too high?
>
> Ozzy
>
> "Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message news:<be1pih$ca11$1@ID-147790.news.dfncis.de>...
> > My theory is that thicker oil will not flow through the relatively smaller
> > oil passages as well as oil intended for your engine. You may get
> > insufficient oiling of bearings and especially pistons and rings if you use
> > it. Do yourself a favor and fix the leak instead. I am guessing two hours
> > labor tops for the job. No way does this add up to $700.
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "obirer" <obirer@princeton.edu> wrote in message
> > news:d8d971b.0307030850.7ba80858@posting.google.co m...
> > > I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> > > front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> > > I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> > > sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> > > PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> > > plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> > > winters.
> > >
> > > What do you guys suggest?
> > >
> > > Ozzy...

daisho

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in
> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job

Doug,

Are all works done by "Doug" rated in beers?

I HAVE to wonder what your missus thinks :). And don't tell us pleasing her
is a 10 beer job... then we'll KNOW you're full of it :)

Ian

Brand Howard

LOL, seriously though cross posting is frowned upon in RAMJAW.

Brand Howard
www.jeeproject.com


> I HAVE to wonder what your missus thinks :). And don't tell us pleasing
her
> is a 10 beer job
> Ian

DougW

daisho wrote:
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in
>> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job
>
> Doug,
>
> Are all works done by "Doug" rated in beers?

Not always, often, but not always.

> I HAVE to wonder what your missus thinks :). And don't tell us pleasing her
> is a 10 beer job... then we'll KNOW you're full of it :)

no comment... ^_^

--
DougW

obirer

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:<lB6Na.399254$3n5.210334@news2.central.***.ne t>...
> obirer wrote:
> > Well, here is what says in the estimate;
> >
> > Crankshaft main bearing seal replace (B) 7 hours x $ 80.00/h
> > rear main oil seal $10.00
> > oil pan gasket $40.00
> > oil and filter: $25.00
> >
> > I think I was wrong in the first post, this is rear main oil bearing
> > seal, is it not?
>
> Rear main seal on the crankshaft.
>
> > Is $700 still too high?
>
> Yes.
>
> If it's a split rear seal that's about a 2 beer job
>
> basically you just empty the oil, have a beer, drop the pan,
> loosen the back two carrier bolts, and remove the seal. Then scrape
> off any old oil pan gasket, put the new seals in, torque
> the carrier bolts to spec, a little sealant, gasket, and the pan.
> Add oil, and have a beer.
>
> While your in there may as well clean the oil pickup screen. Just
> remember to put it back....
>
> Best to have a service book though.


Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?

what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?

Earle Horton

"obirer" <obirer@princeton.edu> wrote in message
news:d8d971b.0307041029.38176363@posting.google.co m...
SNIPPY
>
> Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?

This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual out in
the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go look. ;o)

>
> what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
> the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?

These are like pissing into the wind...

Earle

Username

Diesel oils have a higher level of calcium based detergents I thought... I
can only think that the added cleansing would tend to loosen up large
amounts of exactly what we would rather not have floating about in our oil
sump.

I can't see it helping too much in any case.... I would go for a new seal...


"Robert Bills" <rdbillsjr@aol.comxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:20030703132146.06709.00000037@mb-m11.aol.com...
Diesel rated oil won't hurt anything, but probably won't help either. Best
just to replace the seal.

If you do use "diesel oil," try Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella, two of
the
best. Both available cheap at Walmart.

Robert Bills
KG6LMV
Orange County CA

http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/...p-l/billsr.htm
http://www.RobertBills.com

Username

Is that dollars, or pesos?

Way out of line. Must have been the stealership





"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3F046335.EC9E705E@sympatico.ca...
The seal costs about $30.00 and can be changed in an hour or two in the
driveway.

$700.00??????

Holy crap!

And I would stay away from diesel oil. It has the wrong additives for a
gas engine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

obirer wrote:
>
> I have a 91 wrangler (6 cyc, manual trans.) and it has a leak at the
> front bearing seal. (~$700 to replace the seal) The mechanic suggested
> I use 15W40 diesel oil (since it is thicker) together with some
> sealant additive to minimize/eliminate the leak. However the guy at
> PepBoys says it is not such a good idea to put diesel oil in the jeep,
> plus it will have problems with cranking/starting in cold Jersey
> winters.
>
> What do you guys suggest?
>
> Ozzy...

Will Honea

On Sat, 5 Jul 2003 02:02:06 UTC obirer@princeton.edu (obirer) wrote:

> "Earle Horton" <enfermero_diabolico@registerednurses.com> wrote in message news:<be4ht3$17moj$1@ID-147790.news.dfncis.de>...
> > "obirer" <obirer@princeton.edu> wrote in message
> > news:d8d971b.0307041029.38176363@posting.google.co m...
> > SNIPPY
> > >
> > > Chilton's suggests to remove the transmission & flywheel before
> > > removing the oil pan...is it not necessary?
> >
> > This depends upon whether it is a split seal or not. I have a manual out in
> > the garage that might say. If it were my vehicle I would go look. ;o)
> >
> It IS a split seal...and it suggests to remove the trans.
>
>
> > >
> > > what are my chances with the sealant additives that one can pour into
> > > the oil?Would you recommend a specific one?
> >
> > These are like pissing into the wind...

FSM for the 88 MJ/XJ just says to remove the starter as do both the
Chiltons and Haynes books I have. On both the 88 MJ and 91 XJ, you
actually have to jack up the rear of the engine a bit to slide the oil
pan back past the bellhousing - that's safer and easier if you unbolt
the rear tranny mount where ever it's easiest to get at. That might
be a tad tougher on the YJ with the skid plate and no lift but pulling
the tranny sounds like make-work to me - you would have to pull the
flywheel/flex plate for that to do any good.

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

Earle Horton

"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-ft0tvfSbGyUe@anon.none.net...
SNIPPY
> FSM for the 88 MJ/XJ just says to remove the starter as do both the
> Chiltons and Haynes books I have. On both the 88 MJ and 91 XJ, you
> actually have to jack up the rear of the engine a bit to slide the oil
> pan back past the bellhousing - that's safer and easier if you unbolt
> the rear tranny mount where ever it's easiest to get at. That might
> be a tad tougher on the YJ with the skid plate and no lift but pulling
> the tranny sounds like make-work to me - you would have to pull the
> flywheel/flex plate for that to do any good.
>
One piece seal cannot be removed or replaced intact with the transmission in
place...

Earle