Take a look what this guy did:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html

 

Here's testing with Plastigauge:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...kBearings.html


And the rest of the site:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Cars/MR2/



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

 

Here's testing with Plastigauge:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...kBearings.html


And the rest of the site:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Cars/MR2/



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

 

Here's testing with Plastigauge:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...kBearings.html


And the rest of the site:

http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Cars/MR2/



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

 

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

No way he's married.

Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for you.
I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
fact I commend you for learning.

As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going to
try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared to
something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this though.
The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to dry
your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which brings
me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make sure
they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).

The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have everything
checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may also
want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in order
if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the other
steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
for free or for a few bucks extra.

Chris

 

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

No way he's married.

Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for you.
I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
fact I commend you for learning.

As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going to
try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared to
something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this though.
The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to dry
your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which brings
me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make sure
they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).

The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have everything
checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may also
want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in order
if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the other
steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
for free or for a few bucks extra.

Chris

 

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Take a look what this guy did:
>
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
>
>
>

No way he's married.

Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for you.
I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
fact I commend you for learning.

As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going to
try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared to
something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this though.
The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to dry
your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which brings
me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make sure
they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).

The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have everything
checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may also
want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in order
if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the other
steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
for free or for a few bucks extra.

Chris

 

Absolutely right about the pins, but did you notice in the pic the c-clips
sitting by the pins. These were full floating pins and he could have just
nudged them out cold. Does he really think that the piston and rod small
end/pin only stay together at temps below 80 celcius? What happens when the
engine hits operating temp.
Steve
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:QyJ1c.30869$o01.29035@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Take a look what this guy did:
> >
> >
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
> >
> >
> >
>
> No way he's married.
>
> Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
> expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
> piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
> The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
> something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
> an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for
you.
> I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
> fact I commend you for learning.
>
> As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going
to
> try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
> Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared
to
> something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this
though.
> The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to
dry
> your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
> critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
> washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which
brings
> me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
> if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
> passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
> hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
> cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
> prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make
sure
> they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
> High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).
>
> The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
> of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
> you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
> rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have
everything
> checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
> polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
> clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may
also
> want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in
order
> if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
> having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the
other
> steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
> for free or for a few bucks extra.
>
> Chris
>
>

 

Absolutely right about the pins, but did you notice in the pic the c-clips
sitting by the pins. These were full floating pins and he could have just
nudged them out cold. Does he really think that the piston and rod small
end/pin only stay together at temps below 80 celcius? What happens when the
engine hits operating temp.
Steve
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:QyJ1c.30869$o01.29035@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Take a look what this guy did:
> >
> >
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
> >
> >
> >
>
> No way he's married.
>
> Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
> expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
> piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
> The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
> something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
> an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for
you.
> I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
> fact I commend you for learning.
>
> As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going
to
> try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
> Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared
to
> something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this
though.
> The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to
dry
> your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
> critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
> washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which
brings
> me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
> if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
> passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
> hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
> cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
> prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make
sure
> they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
> High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).
>
> The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
> of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
> you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
> rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have
everything
> checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
> polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
> clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may
also
> want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in
order
> if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
> having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the
other
> steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
> for free or for a few bucks extra.
>
> Chris
>
>

 

Absolutely right about the pins, but did you notice in the pic the c-clips
sitting by the pins. These were full floating pins and he could have just
nudged them out cold. Does he really think that the piston and rod small
end/pin only stay together at temps below 80 celcius? What happens when the
engine hits operating temp.
Steve
"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:QyJ1c.30869$o01.29035@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:c27kum$1qot4m$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Take a look what this guy did:
> >
> >
>
http://www.jamesmccombe.com/tube/Car...Internals.html
> >
> >
> >
>
> No way he's married.
>
> Also, his comment on the piston pins coming out because the aluminum
> expanded more than the steel is wrong. The pins aren't pressed into the
> piston, they are pressed into the rod and are free to move on the piston.
> The second thing about this is that if the pins slid out at 80C there is
> something wrong. This is a lower temp than the engine operates at. This is
> an example of why a competent rebuilder should check everything out for
you.
> I'm not trying to discourage you from doing some of the work yourself. In
> fact I commend you for learning.
>
> As far as cleaning the parts, his methods may work, and if you are going
to
> try this I suggest using a cleaner called Mean Green instead of Simple
> Green. The stuff works much better and is only $5 per gallon as compared
to
> something like $14 for SG. There are issues with cleaning like this
though.
> The first is water, which will make rust in a fast hurry. You'll want to
dry
> your parts immediately and then put some type of rust preventative on any
> critical surfaces. This isn't a real big deal because any good engine shop
> washes their parts in a soapy water solution after hot tanking, which
brings
> me to the second issue. Hot tanking is recommended for the block (and head
> if you are rebuilding it). This will help remove all the crud in the oil
> passages as well as the casting pores that you can't possibly get to by
> hand. The shop that hot tanks your block will also have to replace all the
> cam bearings, oil plugs, and freeze plugs after the block is cleaned and
> prepped. The cam bearings require a special tool to install them. Make
sure
> they use some type of sealer on the freeze plugs. I normally use Permatex
> High Tack (also known as gorilla snot to engine builders).
>
> The more I think about your engine, the more I think it probably has a lot
> of miles on it and is ready to be rebuilt again. At this point, if I were
> you and were going to rebuild the engine, I would take the block, crank,
> rods, and pistons to a competent rebuilder in your area and have
everything
> checked out. You may just need a hone job on the cylinders and the crank
> polished, but have the crank journals checked out, the piston to bore
> clearance, the bore roundness on the big ends of the rods, etc. You may
also
> want to have the cam checked for excessive wear (keeps the lifters in
order
> if you take them out!!!!!). Replace the oil pump and screen, if you end up
> having the block dipped, have them do the crank, oil pan, and all the
other
> steel/cast iron pieces that will fit in the tank. They'll usually do them
> for free or for a few bucks extra.
>
> Chris
>
>