Dead Jeep
08-23-2004, 05:43 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
It's not difficult to check for spark, just pull a plug wire and peel the
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
08-23-2004, 05:43 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
It's not difficult to check for spark, just pull a plug wire and peel the
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
08-23-2004, 05:43 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
It's not difficult to check for spark, just pull a plug wire and peel the
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground
and crank the engine over.
If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,
1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist.
In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant
flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the
insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to
give them a tug.
If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.
2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light.
If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor
point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire
when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is
determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be
a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped.
Steve g.
"RocknTJ" <jetowle@***.net> wrote in message
news:f_sWc.127338$Oi.65317@fed1read04...
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the
HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark
at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way
on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor
some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam
and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is
too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:412A44A4.8E90475B@***.net...
> > Hi James,
> > A back fire is always ignition, but eliminate your injection by
> > spraying a couple of ounces of gasoline onto the throttle butterfly, and
> > firing. No fire, a commonly overlooked failure is a leak in the rotor,
> > where it looks like you have spark, but none reaches the plug. Fire,
> > look at your crankshaft position sensor, on your balancer.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
>
>
08-23-2004, 06:01 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
08-23-2004, 06:01 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
08-23-2004, 06:01 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
08-23-2004, 06:01 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
start.
Time for a compression check.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RocknTJ wrote:
>
> I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre"
> fire and cause some flames in the TB.
>
> There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.
>
> I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at
> the plugs.
>
> It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on
> the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can
> rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some
> how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and
> how they are related to the distributor drive gear.
>
> Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too
> crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a
> compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1
> cylinder using the finger test.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --James
08-23-2004, 10:44 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
I found the problem. I just am wondering now how it happened.
I had some friends stop by and they were turning the key while I had the
distributor cap off. The rotor was not turning over at the same speed at the
starter, it would skip a beat every so often. We removed the distributor and
looked down the hole while someone was bumping the starter. There seems to
be a few teeth missing off the distributor drive gear on the cam. The gear
on the cam didn't seem loose, but I will be able to see it better once the
timing chain cover is off.
If anyone has a clue as to why this would happen, I would be glad to hear
from you.
Thanks to all.
--James
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:412A6933.D81E050F@***.net...
> If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
> start.
> Time for a compression check.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
08-23-2004, 10:44 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
I found the problem. I just am wondering now how it happened.
I had some friends stop by and they were turning the key while I had the
distributor cap off. The rotor was not turning over at the same speed at the
starter, it would skip a beat every so often. We removed the distributor and
looked down the hole while someone was bumping the starter. There seems to
be a few teeth missing off the distributor drive gear on the cam. The gear
on the cam didn't seem loose, but I will be able to see it better once the
timing chain cover is off.
If anyone has a clue as to why this would happen, I would be glad to hear
from you.
Thanks to all.
--James
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:412A6933.D81E050F@***.net...
> If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
> start.
> Time for a compression check.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
08-23-2004, 10:44 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dead Jeep
I found the problem. I just am wondering now how it happened.
I had some friends stop by and they were turning the key while I had the
distributor cap off. The rotor was not turning over at the same speed at the
starter, it would skip a beat every so often. We removed the distributor and
looked down the hole while someone was bumping the starter. There seems to
be a few teeth missing off the distributor drive gear on the cam. The gear
on the cam didn't seem loose, but I will be able to see it better once the
timing chain cover is off.
If anyone has a clue as to why this would happen, I would be glad to hear
from you.
Thanks to all.
--James
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:412A6933.D81E050F@***.net...
> If it skip a tooth, you may retard the spark timing and it will
> start.
> Time for a compression check.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>