Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries. Mike SB wrote: > > Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on. > 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol > > I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of > your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is > still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run! > > Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to > ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery). > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca... > > It does make 'some' difference. > > > > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85) > > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This > > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to > > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay. > > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power. > > > > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds > > 'on' until the key cuts the power. > > > > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you > > are playing around with LED's. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > SB wrote: > > > > > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol > > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which > > > gets what.... > > > > > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!! > > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com... > > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill.... > > > > > > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't > like > > > to > > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D > > > > > > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably > was > > > a > > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in > relation > > > to > > > > being surplus and were on sale! > > > > > > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent > the > > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech > and > > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!). > > > > > > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm > > > useless > > > > lol too much! > > > > > > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the > > > > bottom of the relay. > > > > (look at 2nd image down) > > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm > > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined > > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno. > > > > > > > > Where's my buckleys! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message > > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com... > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes: > > > > > > > > > > > Hey guys, > > > > > > > > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they > > > > polarized? > > > > > > > > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a > pos/neg > > > > pole on > > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference! > > > > > > > > > > > > sb > > > > > > > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings > usually > > > > isn't > > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em > up > > > the > > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact > > > > armatures > > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But > because > > > you > > > > say > > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with > > > > polarity. > > > > > > > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the > > > > voltage and > > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings > are > > > > usually > > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too > much > > > > voltage > > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power > > > source > > > > can > > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the > winding > > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is > rated > > > for > > > > at > > > > > least 12-16 volts. > > > > > > > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage > rating > > > or > > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load > > > doesn't > > > > draw > > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw > > > > exceeds > > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt > them, > > > > start a > > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature > > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed > > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature. > > > > > > > > > > Scotty > > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L > > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L > > > > > '03 BMW Z4 > > > > > > > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply *** > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries. Mike SB wrote: > > Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on. > 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol > > I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of > your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is > still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run! > > Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to > ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery). > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca... > > It does make 'some' difference. > > > > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85) > > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This > > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to > > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay. > > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power. > > > > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds > > 'on' until the key cuts the power. > > > > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you > > are playing around with LED's. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > SB wrote: > > > > > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol > > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which > > > gets what.... > > > > > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!! > > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com... > > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill.... > > > > > > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't > like > > > to > > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D > > > > > > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably > was > > > a > > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in > relation > > > to > > > > being surplus and were on sale! > > > > > > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent > the > > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech > and > > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!). > > > > > > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm > > > useless > > > > lol too much! > > > > > > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the > > > > bottom of the relay. > > > > (look at 2nd image down) > > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm > > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined > > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno. > > > > > > > > Where's my buckleys! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message > > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com... > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes: > > > > > > > > > > > Hey guys, > > > > > > > > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they > > > > polarized? > > > > > > > > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a > pos/neg > > > > pole on > > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference! > > > > > > > > > > > > sb > > > > > > > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings > usually > > > > isn't > > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em > up > > > the > > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact > > > > armatures > > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But > because > > > you > > > > say > > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with > > > > polarity. > > > > > > > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the > > > > voltage and > > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings > are > > > > usually > > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too > much > > > > voltage > > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power > > > source > > > > can > > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the > winding > > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is > rated > > > for > > > > at > > > > > least 12-16 volts. > > > > > > > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage > rating > > > or > > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load > > > doesn't > > > > draw > > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw > > > > exceeds > > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt > them, > > > > start a > > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature > > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed > > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature. > > > > > > > > > > Scotty > > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L > > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L > > > > > '03 BMW Z4 > > > > > > > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply *** > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: dc relay
Battery.
I have an Optima battery with a bolt post for accessories. Canadian Tire now sells generic rolled cell batteries. Mike SB wrote: > > Well i picked up those fancy schmancy led switches that light up when on. > 4pack for $5....woo hoo sale!! lol > > I'm just looking at how I'm going to wire these up....looks like, instead of > your ground switch closure being 1 wire, I'll have a powered closure that is > still 1-wire to the coil. Still only 1 wire to run! > > Are yours connected to ACC or to your battery? I'm looking at hooking up to > ACC (except for one convenience cig outlet to the battery). > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:408FAB7F.41B50A70@sympatico.ca... > > It does make 'some' difference. > > > > I prefer to put power to the coil at the relay (hook pin 87 to pin 85) > > and use the switch for a ground only off pin 86 to fire the coil. This > > means I only need one small ground wire coming through the firewall to > > the switch. Hit the switch, this grounds the coil and fires the relay. > > No fuses needed on this side of the wiring, only on the primary power. > > > > You can also make a 'latching' relay if you wire it right so it holds > > 'on' until the key cuts the power. > > > > No diodes are needed normally with these mechanical relays unless you > > are playing around with LED's. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > SB wrote: > > > > > > I'm such a doped up spaz!! lol > > > I just read the link I put in there and it don't make a difference which > > > gets what.... > > > > > > I swear guys...I haven't been eating paint chips!! > > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > > news:cCDjc.301907$2oI1.75276@twister01.bloor.is.ne t.cable.rogers.com... > > > > Thanks Scotty/Bill.... > > > > > > > > I understand how a relay works....I'm an electronics tech and don't > like > > > to > > > > 'test' polarities if I can help it! :D > > > > > > > > These aren't "cheap" relays relative to manufacturing (ok, it probably > was > > > a > > > > philipian sweat-shop -- they do great work!) but were "cheap" in > relation > > > to > > > > being surplus and were on sale! > > > > > > > > I know they put on 'fold-back' (or feedback) diodes to help prevent > the > > > > coils from discharging back in to the line (ok, I said I'm an EL-tech > and > > > > now can't remember if it only applied to AC designs!). > > > > > > > > I'm working off the flu and have been OD'ing on cold medicine. I'm > > > useless > > > > lol too much! > > > > > > > > Anyhow, here's a link I found that has the perscribed numbering on the > > > > bottom of the relay. > > > > (look at 2nd image down) > > > > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/lights-1.htm > > > > This tells me at least that there are certain pins used for defined > > > > polarities....not that it isn't swappable....but....I dunno. > > > > > > > > Where's my buckleys! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "Scotty" <gotcherpicher@aol.common> wrote in message > > > > news:20040427202017.17108.00000441@mb-m13.aol.com... > > > > > "SB" <chicbearsmook@hotmail.com> writes: > > > > > > > > > > > Hey guys, > > > > > > > > > > > > Having a brain issue. Are automotive relays bipolar? or are they > > > > polarized? > > > > > > > > > > > > I picked up some cheap relays and there's no indication of a > pos/neg > > > > pole on > > > > > > the coil....I'm guessing it don't make a difference! > > > > > > > > > > > > sb > > > > > > > > > > The DC polarity of conventional electromechanical relay windings > usually > > > > isn't > > > > > an issue; if they won't work one way, switch the wires to hook 'em > up > > > the > > > > > other. There are very sensitive relays that have magnetized cotact > > > > armatures > > > > > and thus the polarity of the winding current is important. But > because > > > you > > > > say > > > > > you got these relays "cheap," I doubt that you'll have trouble with > > > > polarity. > > > > > > > > > > Rather than winding polarity, what's important about relays are the > > > > voltage and > > > > > current ratings of both the winding and the contacts. These ratings > are > > > > usually > > > > > stamped or embossed on the base. Be sure that you don't apply too > much > > > > voltage > > > > > to the winding or you'll burn it out, and make sure that your power > > > source > > > > can > > > > > supply enough current for it to operate. With a car battery, the > winding > > > > > current draw won't be an issue as long as the winding voltage is > rated > > > for > > > > at > > > > > least 12-16 volts. > > > > > > > > > > As far as the contacts are concerned, don't exceed their voltage > rating > > > or > > > > > they'll arc. And (probably most important) make sure that the load > > > doesn't > > > > draw > > > > > more current than the contacts can handle. If your load current draw > > > > exceeds > > > > > the contact current capacity, you'll weld the contacts shut, melt > them, > > > > start a > > > > > fire, or all of the above. Automotive applications are by nature > > > > > low-voltage/high-current devices, so automotive relays are designed > > > > > accordingly; really fat, beefy contacts with a short-throw armature. > > > > > > > > > > Scotty > > > > > '99 TJ 4.0L > > > > > '99 XJ 4.0L > > > > > '03 BMW Z4 > > > > > > > > > > *** No animals were harmed during the production of this reply *** > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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