Greg

Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days in
the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
> "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK <nospam@nospam.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
> like
> > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
> stock
> > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts and
> > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
fan
> > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
> > >>
> > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
after
> > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
> looks
> > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
> > >>
> > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
>
> There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
> body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced all
> the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly easy
> to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
> bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it snapped
> off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub out.
I
> finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a simple
> bolt & lockwasher.
>
>

Jerry McG

> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
in
the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>

A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
together without a struggle.

Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.

This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.

Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
.... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!

> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
<nospam@nospam.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
> > like
> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
> > stock
> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
and
> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
> fan
> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
> > > >>
> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
> after
> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
> > looks
> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
> > > >>
> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
> >
> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
all
> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
easy
> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
snapped
> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
out.
> I
> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
simple
> > bolt & lockwasher.
> >
> >
>
>

Jerry McG

> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
in
the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>

A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
together without a struggle.

Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.

This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.

Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
.... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!

> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
<nospam@nospam.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
> > like
> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
> > stock
> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
and
> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
> fan
> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
> > > >>
> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
> after
> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
> > looks
> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
> > > >>
> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
> >
> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
all
> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
easy
> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
snapped
> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
out.
> I
> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
simple
> > bolt & lockwasher.
> >
> >
>
>

Jerry McG

> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
in
the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>

A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
together without a struggle.

Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.

This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.

Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
.... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!

> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
<nospam@nospam.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
> > like
> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
> > stock
> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
and
> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
> fan
> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
> > > >>
> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
> after
> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
> > looks
> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
> > > >>
> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
> >
> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
all
> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
easy
> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
snapped
> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
out.
> I
> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
simple
> > bolt & lockwasher.
> >
> >
>
>

Jerry McG

> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
in
the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>

A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
together without a struggle.

Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.

This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.

Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
.... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!

> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
<nospam@nospam.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
> > like
> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
> > stock
> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
and
> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
> fan
> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
> > > >>
> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
> after
> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
> > looks
> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
> > > >>
> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
> >
> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
all
> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
easy
> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
snapped
> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
out.
> I
> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
simple
> > bolt & lockwasher.
> >
> >
>
>

Peter Parker

Interesting stuff. I'm sure my luck would have me strip the holes.
Watch out for my next thread about installing a Stinger CAT back
on a YJ. :)

Thanks for the info on the body lift kit.

In article <caf3ft02srj@enews1.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
>in
>the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>
>
>A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
>on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
>when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
>However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
>rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
>Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
>points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
>together without a struggle.
>
>Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
>right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
>I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
>wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
>good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
>I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
>nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
>hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
>a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.
>
>This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
>it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
>the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
>body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
>unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.
>
>Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
>noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
>and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
>didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
>twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
>So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
>side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
>least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
>the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
>... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!
>
>> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
>> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
>> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
><nospam@nospam.com>
>> > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
>> > like
>> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
>> > stock
>> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
>and
>> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
>> fan
>> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
>> after
>> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
>> > looks
>> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
>> >
>> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
>> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
>all
>> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
>easy
>> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
>> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
>snapped
>> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
>out.
>> I
>> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
>simple
>> > bolt & lockwasher.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
Replace nospam with jetta for e-mail

Peter Parker

Interesting stuff. I'm sure my luck would have me strip the holes.
Watch out for my next thread about installing a Stinger CAT back
on a YJ. :)

Thanks for the info on the body lift kit.

In article <caf3ft02srj@enews1.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
>in
>the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>
>
>A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
>on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
>when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
>However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
>rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
>Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
>points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
>together without a struggle.
>
>Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
>right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
>I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
>wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
>good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
>I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
>nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
>hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
>a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.
>
>This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
>it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
>the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
>body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
>unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.
>
>Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
>noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
>and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
>didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
>twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
>So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
>side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
>least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
>the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
>... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!
>
>> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
>> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
>> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
><nospam@nospam.com>
>> > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
>> > like
>> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
>> > stock
>> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
>and
>> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
>> fan
>> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
>> after
>> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
>> > looks
>> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
>> >
>> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
>> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
>all
>> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
>easy
>> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
>> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
>snapped
>> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
>out.
>> I
>> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
>simple
>> > bolt & lockwasher.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
Replace nospam with jetta for e-mail

Peter Parker

Interesting stuff. I'm sure my luck would have me strip the holes.
Watch out for my next thread about installing a Stinger CAT back
on a YJ. :)

Thanks for the info on the body lift kit.

In article <caf3ft02srj@enews1.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
>in
>the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>
>
>A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
>on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
>when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
>However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
>rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
>Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
>points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
>together without a struggle.
>
>Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
>right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
>I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
>wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
>good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
>I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
>nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
>hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
>a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.
>
>This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
>it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
>the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
>body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
>unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.
>
>Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
>noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
>and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
>didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
>twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
>So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
>side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
>least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
>the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
>... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!
>
>> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
>> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
>> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
><nospam@nospam.com>
>> > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
>> > like
>> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
>> > stock
>> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
>and
>> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
>> fan
>> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
>> after
>> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
>> > looks
>> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
>> >
>> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
>> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
>all
>> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
>easy
>> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
>> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
>snapped
>> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
>out.
>> I
>> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
>simple
>> > bolt & lockwasher.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
Replace nospam with jetta for e-mail

Peter Parker

Interesting stuff. I'm sure my luck would have me strip the holes.
Watch out for my next thread about installing a Stinger CAT back
on a YJ. :)

Thanks for the info on the body lift kit.

In article <caf3ft02srj@enews1.newsguy.com>,
Jerry McG <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote:
>> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days
>in
>the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>
>
>A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster
>on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful
>when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well.
>However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were
>rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well.
>Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment
>points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back
>together without a struggle.
>
>Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The
>right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick
>I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft
>wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a
>good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where
>I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve
>nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to
>hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut
>a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.
>
>This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing
>it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all
>the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the
>body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting
>unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.
>
>Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I
>noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements
>and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they
>didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they
>twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right!
>So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers
>side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at
>least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at
>the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left
>... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!
>
>> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
>> news:cacen001oqv@enews4.newsguy.com...
>> > "Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > news:40c928ef_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > In article <s98yc.4214$wD5.483@fe1.texas.rr.com>, GK
><nospam@nospam.com>
>> > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > >"Peter Parker" <nospam@zero.com> wrote in message
>> > > >news:40c8aede$1_2@nntp2.nac.net...
>> > > >> My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't
>> > like
>> > > >> to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have
>> > stock
>> > > >> wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts
>and
>> > > >> are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the
>> fan
>> > > >> cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep
>> after
>> > > >> you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it
>> > looks
>> > > >> like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?
>> >
>> > There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a
>> > body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced
>all
>> > the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly
>easy
>> > to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the
>> > bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it
>snapped
>> > off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub
>out.
>> I
>> > finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a
>simple
>> > bolt & lockwasher.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
Replace nospam with jetta for e-mail