Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method once
and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
etc.

Thanks,

Bill

"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
many
> variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
are
> commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
too
> fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
you
> won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
dump
> too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
the
> piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst case,
> but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like that
> or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently bend
> the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
now
> the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock. Gets
> worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it spins
in
> the rod and takes out the crank too.
> Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
it's
> really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
top
> of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against the
> head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water or
> whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
away
> after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
I've
> also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from closing
> and have to remove the head to correct it.
> These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and wannabees
> that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
instance
> with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a carbon
> buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
highway
> speeds.
> Steve
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> diagnosised
> > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
per
> > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> >
> > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
test
> > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
is?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
>
>

 

You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake manifold.

If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what they
do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply somewhere.



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
once
> and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
> which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
> etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
> many
> > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
> are
> > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
> too
> > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
> you
> > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> dump
> > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
> the
> > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
case,
> > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
that
> > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
bend
> > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
> now
> > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
Gets
> > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
spins
> in
> > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> it's
> > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
> top
> > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
the
> > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
or
> > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> away
> > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> I've
> > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
closing
> > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
wannabees
> > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> instance
> > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
carbon
> > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> highway
> > speeds.
> > Steve
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
> per
> > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > >
> > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
> test
> > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
> is?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake manifold.

If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what they
do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply somewhere.



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
once
> and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
> which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
> etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
> many
> > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
> are
> > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
> too
> > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
> you
> > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> dump
> > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
> the
> > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
case,
> > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
that
> > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
bend
> > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
> now
> > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
Gets
> > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
spins
> in
> > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> it's
> > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
> top
> > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
the
> > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
or
> > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> away
> > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> I've
> > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
closing
> > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
wannabees
> > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> instance
> > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
carbon
> > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> highway
> > speeds.
> > Steve
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
> per
> > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > >
> > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
> test
> > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
> is?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake manifold.

If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what they
do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply somewhere.



"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
once
> and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG 44K
> which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors, carbon,
> etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading. Too
> many
> > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an actual
> > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF methods
> are
> > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it in
> too
> > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage that
> you
> > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> dump
> > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up when
> the
> > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
case,
> > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
that
> > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
bend
> > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent but
> now
> > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------ evenly
> > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
Gets
> > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
spins
> in
> > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> it's
> > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit on
> top
> > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
the
> > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
or
> > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will start
> > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> away
> > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> I've
> > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
closing
> > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
wannabees
> > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> instance
> > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
carbon
> > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> highway
> > speeds.
> > Steve
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > diagnosised
> > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150 psi
> per
> > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking Great.
> > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should have
> > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > >
> > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could the
> test
> > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it really
> is?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html


bill

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
manifold.
>
> If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
they
> do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
somewhere.
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> once
> > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
44K
> > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
carbon,
> > etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
Too
> > many
> > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
actual
> > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
methods
> > are
> > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it
in
> > too
> > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
that
> > you
> > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> > dump
> > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
when
> > the
> > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> case,
> > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
> that
> > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> bend
> > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
but
> > now
> > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
evenly
> > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> Gets
> > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> spins
> > in
> > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> > it's
> > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit
on
> > top
> > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
> the
> > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
> or
> > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
start
> > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> > away
> > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> > I've
> > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> closing
> > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> wannabees
> > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > instance
> > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> carbon
> > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > highway
> > > speeds.
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

 

Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html


bill

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
manifold.
>
> If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
they
> do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
somewhere.
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> once
> > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
44K
> > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
carbon,
> > etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
Too
> > many
> > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
actual
> > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
methods
> > are
> > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it
in
> > too
> > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
that
> > you
> > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> > dump
> > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
when
> > the
> > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> case,
> > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
> that
> > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> bend
> > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
but
> > now
> > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
evenly
> > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> Gets
> > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> spins
> > in
> > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> > it's
> > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit
on
> > top
> > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
> the
> > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
> or
> > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
start
> > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> > away
> > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> > I've
> > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> closing
> > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> wannabees
> > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > instance
> > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> carbon
> > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > highway
> > > speeds.
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

 

Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html


bill

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
manifold.
>
> If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
they
> do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
somewhere.
>
>
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> once
> > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
44K
> > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
carbon,
> > etc.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
Too
> > many
> > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
actual
> > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
methods
> > are
> > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour it
in
> > too
> > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
that
> > you
> > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if you
> > dump
> > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
when
> > the
> > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> case,
> > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston like
> that
> > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> bend
> > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
but
> > now
> > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
evenly
> > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> Gets
> > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> spins
> > in
> > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off if
> > it's
> > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually sit
on
> > top
> > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding against
> the
> > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with water
> or
> > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
start
> > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will go
> > away
> > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short time.
> > I've
> > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> closing
> > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> wannabees
> > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > instance
> > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> carbon
> > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > highway
> > > speeds.
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > diagnosised
> > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
psi
> > per
> > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
Great.
> > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
have
> > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
the
> > test
> > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
really
> > is?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Bill
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

 

But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
> through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
>
> http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
>
>
> bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> manifold.
> >
> > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
> they
> > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> somewhere.
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> > once
> > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
> 44K
> > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> carbon,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> Too
> > > many
> > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> actual
> > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> methods
> > > are
> > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
it
> in
> > > too
> > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
> that
> > > you
> > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
you
> > > dump
> > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
> when
> > > the
> > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> > case,
> > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
like
> > that
> > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> > bend
> > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
> but
> > > now
> > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> evenly
> > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> > Gets
> > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> > spins
> > > in
> > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off
if
> > > it's
> > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
sit
> on
> > > top
> > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
against
> > the
> > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
water
> > or
> > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> start
> > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will
go
> > > away
> > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
time.
> > > I've
> > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > closing
> > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > wannabees
> > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > > instance
> > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> > carbon
> > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > > highway
> > > > speeds.
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
> psi
> > > per
> > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> Great.
> > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> have
> > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > >
> > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
> the
> > > test
> > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> really
> > > is?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
> through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
>
> http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
>
>
> bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> manifold.
> >
> > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
> they
> > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> somewhere.
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> > once
> > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
> 44K
> > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> carbon,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> Too
> > > many
> > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> actual
> > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> methods
> > > are
> > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
it
> in
> > > too
> > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
> that
> > > you
> > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
you
> > > dump
> > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
> when
> > > the
> > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> > case,
> > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
like
> > that
> > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> > bend
> > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
> but
> > > now
> > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> evenly
> > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> > Gets
> > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> > spins
> > > in
> > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off
if
> > > it's
> > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
sit
> on
> > > top
> > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
against
> > the
> > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
water
> > or
> > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> start
> > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will
go
> > > away
> > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
time.
> > > I've
> > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > closing
> > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > wannabees
> > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > > instance
> > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> > carbon
> > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > > highway
> > > > speeds.
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
> psi
> > > per
> > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> Great.
> > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> have
> > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > >
> > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
> the
> > > test
> > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> really
> > > is?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

But, that stuff will not change your compression. Your injectors are new,
and I assume they are clean. Your compression is high, but within reason.
You can forget about this "problem" and move on to other things.




"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bu4coj$crkgv$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Actually that's what this stuff is. You add it to the gas tank and run it
> through the system. It's suppose to clean, clean, clean.
>
> http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyattarp...4kfuelsys.html
>
>
> bill
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:100bbel3b9neo54@corp.supernews.com...
> > You will not clean the injectors by pouring stuff down the intake
> manifold.
> >
> > If you pour into the intake manifold slow enough to not stall the motor,
> > there is no danger of hydro-locking the motor. As for the injectors, you
> > will clean the very tips of them with this method, but this is not what
> they
> > do when they talk about injector cleaning. To clean the inside of an
> > injector, you have to introduce the cleaner into the fuel supply
> somewhere.
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bu41g3$csgno$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > Thanks for the informative reply Steve. I have tried the water method
> > once
> > > and cannot be sure of the results. I'm looking at a product called BG
> 44K
> > > which is reported to have excellent results in cleaning injectors,
> carbon,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> > > news:_jfNb.92364$JQ1.49458@pd7tw1no...
> > > > As all of the others have said, don't worry about the 150 reading.
> Too
> > > many
> > > > variables that will change the reading. Most specs don't give an
> actual
> > > > number but rather give a % that they should be within to each other.
> > > > A word of caution about removing the carbon. The water and ATF
> methods
> > > are
> > > > commonly used but you need to know what you're doing. If you pour
it
> in
> > > too
> > > > fast it will hydraulic the cylinders and probably do serious damage
> that
> > > you
> > > > won't know about for a while. You can not compress a liquid so if
you
> > > dump
> > > > too much in too fast it will sit on top of the piston and jam it up
> when
> > > the
> > > > piston comes to the top. The engine will stop suddenly in the worst
> > case,
> > > > but may not but will still do damage. Sudden stop of the piston
like
> > that
> > > > or hammering it with this liquid on top has been known to frequently
> > bend
> > > > the connecting rod. It won't break it and you won't know it's bent
> but
> > > now
> > > > the load will be on one side of the rod bearing instead of ------
> evenly
> > > > across it. In a few thousand miles you've got a mild con rod knock.
> > Gets
> > > > worse until either you straighten the rod and replace the brg or it
> > spins
> > > in
> > > > the rod and takes out the crank too.
> > > > Another thing that I have seen happen is when the carbon breaks off
if
> > > it's
> > > > really badly carboned, the pieces may be large enough to actually
sit
> on
> > > top
> > > > of the piston in a spot of close tolerance and start pounding
against
> > the
> > > > head. I've experienced it where you're doing the de-carbon with
water
> > or
> > > > whatever and while you're pouring it down all of a sudden it will
> start
> > > > knocking like crazy. Very loud and very solid. Most times it will
go
> > > away
> > > > after a few minutes, but you may have bent the rod in that short
time.
> > > I've
> > > > also seen the carbon piece lodge under a valve and prevent it from
> > closing
> > > > and have to remove the head to correct it.
> > > > These are all true stories. I know there's a lot of rookies and
> > wannabees
> > > > that read this board, so be carefull out there. In this particular
> > > instance
> > > > with a cross country trip planned I would do nothing. If there's a
> > carbon
> > > > buildup the safest method of getting rid of it is a good long run at
> > > highway
> > > > speeds.
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:bu1c4l$c8dq2$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > > > I just got a call from the shop where I took my jeep to have it
> > > > diagnosised
> > > > > for engine "strength". The guy told me I have compression of 150
> psi
> > > per
> > > > > cylinder with no variance between each cylinder. I'm thinking
> Great.
> > > > > However, I looked up the specs in my FSM where they say I should
> have
> > > > > between 120 to 140 per cylinder.
> > > > >
> > > > > Can I have too much compression and what would cause that? Could
> the
> > > test
> > > > > be done incorrectly which would present a higher number than it
> really
> > > is?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>