Cherokee-LTD

Bill,
He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine but
the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be removed
when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
in the lifter and at the rocker.
Typical valvetrain assembly:
Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to reciprocating
motion
Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward motion
on the valve
Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust) and
all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
-Brian

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: Thanks for the tips Steve.
:
: A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
: connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
: engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
:
: If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
: head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
:
:
: Thanks in advance,
:
: Bill
:
:
: "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
: news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
: > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
: > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
: unlikely.
: > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
: > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
: > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
: will
: > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
: > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
: > Remove the rockers before applying air.
: > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
: > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
: > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
: > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
: once
: > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
: > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
: > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
: > especially if you've got fat fingers.
: > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
: > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
: > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
: > them on.
: > Steve
: > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
: > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
: valves
: > > when I take the springs off?
: > >
: > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
: > >
: > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
: > >
: > > Thanks,
: > >
: > > Bill
: > >
: > >
: >
: >
:
:

Cherokee-LTD

Bill,
He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine but
the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be removed
when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
in the lifter and at the rocker.
Typical valvetrain assembly:
Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to reciprocating
motion
Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward motion
on the valve
Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust) and
all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
-Brian

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: Thanks for the tips Steve.
:
: A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
: connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
: engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
:
: If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
: head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
:
:
: Thanks in advance,
:
: Bill
:
:
: "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
: news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
: > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
: > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
: unlikely.
: > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
: > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
: > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
: will
: > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
: > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
: > Remove the rockers before applying air.
: > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
: > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
: > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
: > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
: once
: > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
: > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
: > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
: > especially if you've got fat fingers.
: > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
: > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
: > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
: > them on.
: > Steve
: > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
: > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
: valves
: > > when I take the springs off?
: > >
: > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
: > >
: > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
: > >
: > > Thanks,
: > >
: > > Bill
: > >
: > >
: >
: >
:
:

Cherokee-LTD

Bill,
He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine but
the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be removed
when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
in the lifter and at the rocker.
Typical valvetrain assembly:
Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to reciprocating
motion
Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward motion
on the valve
Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust) and
all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
-Brian

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: Thanks for the tips Steve.
:
: A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
: connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
: engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
:
: If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
: head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
:
:
: Thanks in advance,
:
: Bill
:
:
: "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
: news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
: > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
: > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
: unlikely.
: > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
: > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
: > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
: will
: > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
: > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
: > Remove the rockers before applying air.
: > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
: > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
: > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
: > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
: once
: > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
: > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
: > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
: > especially if you've got fat fingers.
: > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
: > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
: > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
: > them on.
: > Steve
: > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
: > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
: valves
: > > when I take the springs off?
: > >
: > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
: > >
: > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
: > >
: > > Thanks,
: > >
: > > Bill
: > >
: > >
: >
: >
:
:

Steve G

The rocker arm is the component that pushes down on the valve. The rod
going down the other side is the pushrod. It's not necessarry to remove the
pushrod, although there is nothing to removing it, just lift it up. When
you put it back you just have to make sure it's sitting in the little pocket
in the lifter at the bottom.

A couple of more things, as you remove the rocker arms keep them in order so
they go back on the same valve they came off. Don't mix the little pivot
ball in the bottom up, keep them matched as well. You should inspect the
pivot ball, the corresponding mating point on the rocker arm, the tip of the
pushrod and the mating point on the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem
and it's corresponding mate. You're looking for scoring, deep scratching in
the surfaces. they should all be smooth and shiney. If all are okay put
them all back exactly where they came from. The pushrods are hollow with
holes in each end. Make sure they're open. Make sure you know the
procedure for re-installing, whether they are adjustable or are simply
tightened fully. If this is the 4.0 they are not adjusted just torqued
down. Tighten them slowly as you need to bleed the oil out of the lifter as
you tighten it down.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the tips Steve.
>
> A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
> connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
>
> If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
> head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
> > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> unlikely.
> > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
> > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
> > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
> will
> > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
> > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
> once
> > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
> > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
> > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
> > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
> > them on.
> > Steve
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> valves
> > > when I take the springs off?
> > >
> > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> > >
> > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

The rocker arm is the component that pushes down on the valve. The rod
going down the other side is the pushrod. It's not necessarry to remove the
pushrod, although there is nothing to removing it, just lift it up. When
you put it back you just have to make sure it's sitting in the little pocket
in the lifter at the bottom.

A couple of more things, as you remove the rocker arms keep them in order so
they go back on the same valve they came off. Don't mix the little pivot
ball in the bottom up, keep them matched as well. You should inspect the
pivot ball, the corresponding mating point on the rocker arm, the tip of the
pushrod and the mating point on the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem
and it's corresponding mate. You're looking for scoring, deep scratching in
the surfaces. they should all be smooth and shiney. If all are okay put
them all back exactly where they came from. The pushrods are hollow with
holes in each end. Make sure they're open. Make sure you know the
procedure for re-installing, whether they are adjustable or are simply
tightened fully. If this is the 4.0 they are not adjusted just torqued
down. Tighten them slowly as you need to bleed the oil out of the lifter as
you tighten it down.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the tips Steve.
>
> A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
> connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
>
> If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
> head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
> > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> unlikely.
> > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
> > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
> > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
> will
> > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
> > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
> once
> > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
> > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
> > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
> > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
> > them on.
> > Steve
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> valves
> > > when I take the springs off?
> > >
> > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> > >
> > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Steve G

The rocker arm is the component that pushes down on the valve. The rod
going down the other side is the pushrod. It's not necessarry to remove the
pushrod, although there is nothing to removing it, just lift it up. When
you put it back you just have to make sure it's sitting in the little pocket
in the lifter at the bottom.

A couple of more things, as you remove the rocker arms keep them in order so
they go back on the same valve they came off. Don't mix the little pivot
ball in the bottom up, keep them matched as well. You should inspect the
pivot ball, the corresponding mating point on the rocker arm, the tip of the
pushrod and the mating point on the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem
and it's corresponding mate. You're looking for scoring, deep scratching in
the surfaces. they should all be smooth and shiney. If all are okay put
them all back exactly where they came from. The pushrods are hollow with
holes in each end. Make sure they're open. Make sure you know the
procedure for re-installing, whether they are adjustable or are simply
tightened fully. If this is the 4.0 they are not adjusted just torqued
down. Tighten them slowly as you need to bleed the oil out of the lifter as
you tighten it down.
Steve
"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks for the tips Steve.
>
> A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which
> connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
valve?
>
> If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
the
> head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
done.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
need
> > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> unlikely.
> > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
inflate
> > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
out
> > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some) pressure
> will
> > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up. If
> > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn over
a
> > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve stem
> once
> > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
held
> > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
for
> > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is compressed,
> > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
hammer
> > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are seated
> > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
put
> > them on.
> > Steve
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> valves
> > > when I take the springs off?
> > >
> > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> > >
> > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks Steve, Cherokee, and all for the great information and tips.

One curious question. You mentioned not mixing things up due to wear (I'm
afraid I've taken off the stuff from one cylinder (rockers, rocker bridge)
and have not noted which are which. Hopefully I'll be alright with this
one. I'll pay attention with the rest).

So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the
valve assembly? How does this work?


I have a couple of references:

This is from a 72 I6. I have an 83 I6 4.2 but I think it looks close.
http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/valve.jpg


There's some great animations at this site:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm

Thanks,

Bill



"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:OffPb.62637$nl2.29662@news01.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> Bill,
> He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
> pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine
but
> the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
> that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be
removed
> when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
> While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
> sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
> in the lifter and at the rocker.
> Typical valvetrain assembly:
> Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to
reciprocating
> motion
> Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
> Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
> Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward
motion
> on the valve
> Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
> TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
> organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust)
and
> all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
> if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
> -Brian
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : Thanks for the tips Steve.
> :
> : A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm
which
> : connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> : engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
> valve?
> :
> : If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
> the
> : head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
> done.
> :
> :
> : Thanks in advance,
> :
> : Bill
> :
> :
> : "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> : news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> : > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
> need
> : > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> : unlikely.
> : > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
> inflate
> : > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
> out
> : > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some)
pressure
> : will
> : > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up.
If
> : > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> : > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> : > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn
over
> a
> : > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> : > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> : > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve
stem
> : once
> : > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
> held
> : > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
> for
> : > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is
compressed,
> : > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> : > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
> hammer
> : > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are
seated
> : > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
> put
> : > them on.
> : > Steve
> : > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> : > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> : valves
> : > > when I take the springs off?
> : > >
> : > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> : > >
> : > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> : > >
> : > > Thanks,
> : > >
> : > > Bill
> : > >
> : > >
> : >
> : >
> :
> :
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks Steve, Cherokee, and all for the great information and tips.

One curious question. You mentioned not mixing things up due to wear (I'm
afraid I've taken off the stuff from one cylinder (rockers, rocker bridge)
and have not noted which are which. Hopefully I'll be alright with this
one. I'll pay attention with the rest).

So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the
valve assembly? How does this work?


I have a couple of references:

This is from a 72 I6. I have an 83 I6 4.2 but I think it looks close.
http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/valve.jpg


There's some great animations at this site:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm

Thanks,

Bill



"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:OffPb.62637$nl2.29662@news01.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> Bill,
> He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
> pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine
but
> the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
> that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be
removed
> when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
> While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
> sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
> in the lifter and at the rocker.
> Typical valvetrain assembly:
> Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to
reciprocating
> motion
> Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
> Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
> Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward
motion
> on the valve
> Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
> TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
> organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust)
and
> all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
> if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
> -Brian
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : Thanks for the tips Steve.
> :
> : A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm
which
> : connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> : engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
> valve?
> :
> : If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
> the
> : head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
> done.
> :
> :
> : Thanks in advance,
> :
> : Bill
> :
> :
> : "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> : news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> : > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
> need
> : > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> : unlikely.
> : > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
> inflate
> : > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
> out
> : > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some)
pressure
> : will
> : > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up.
If
> : > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> : > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> : > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn
over
> a
> : > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> : > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> : > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve
stem
> : once
> : > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
> held
> : > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
> for
> : > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is
compressed,
> : > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> : > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
> hammer
> : > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are
seated
> : > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
> put
> : > them on.
> : > Steve
> : > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> : > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> : valves
> : > > when I take the springs off?
> : > >
> : > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> : > >
> : > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> : > >
> : > > Thanks,
> : > >
> : > > Bill
> : > >
> : > >
> : >
> : >
> :
> :
>
>

William Oliveri

Thanks Steve, Cherokee, and all for the great information and tips.

One curious question. You mentioned not mixing things up due to wear (I'm
afraid I've taken off the stuff from one cylinder (rockers, rocker bridge)
and have not noted which are which. Hopefully I'll be alright with this
one. I'll pay attention with the rest).

So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the
valve assembly? How does this work?


I have a couple of references:

This is from a 72 I6. I have an 83 I6 4.2 but I think it looks close.
http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/valve.jpg


There's some great animations at this site:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm

Thanks,

Bill



"Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
news:OffPb.62637$nl2.29662@news01.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> Bill,
> He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
> pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine
but
> the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod
> that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be
removed
> when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
> While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
> sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely
> in the lifter and at the rocker.
> Typical valvetrain assembly:
> Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to
reciprocating
> motion
> Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
> Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
> Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward
motion
> on the valve
> Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
> TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
> organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust)
and
> all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces,
> if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
> -Brian
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : Thanks for the tips Steve.
> :
> : A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm
which
> : connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the
> : engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
> valve?
> :
> : If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into
> the
> : head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
> done.
> :
> :
> : Thanks in advance,
> :
> : Bill
> :
> :
> : "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> : news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
> : > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you made
> need
> : > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
> : unlikely.
> : > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
> inflate
> : > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't put
> out
> : > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some)
pressure
> : will
> : > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up.
If
> : > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
> : > Remove the rockers before applying air.
> : > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn
over
> a
> : > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where your
> : > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
> : > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve
stem
> : once
> : > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure they're
> held
> : > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is handy
> for
> : > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is
compressed,
> : > especially if you've got fat fingers.
> : > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
> hammer
> : > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are
seated
> : > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when you
> put
> : > them on.
> : > Steve
> : > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> : > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
> : > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
> : valves
> : > > when I take the springs off?
> : > >
> : > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
> : > >
> : > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
> : > >
> : > > Thanks,
> : > >
> : > > Bill
> : > >
> : > >
> : >
> : >
> :
> :
>
>

Cherokee-LTD

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:buk0rk$j840q$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: Thanks Steve, Cherokee, and all for the great information and tips.
:
: One curious question. You mentioned not mixing things up due to wear (I'm
: afraid I've taken off the stuff from one cylinder (rockers, rocker bridge)
: and have not noted which are which. Hopefully I'll be alright with this
: one. I'll pay attention with the rest).
:
*******Don't lose any sleep... chances are better than good that you will be
fine provided that each component shows normal wear. Do a close
inspection... if you see ANY cracking or dull surfaces, chances are the
mated surface will show the same. Change these parts. Valvetrains are very
forgiving due to hydraulic lifters but if you mix up the parts you're asking
the metal to re-conform in a very short period of time.... that's when you
will run into trouble (tick,tick,tick)

: So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the
: valve assembly? How does this work?
********Not necessarily. When you replace a cam, always replace the lifters.
When you do a valve job, replace the seals and springs. If you have to
replace a rocker, replace the pushrod.

-Brian

:
:
: I have a couple of references:
:
: This is from a 72 I6. I have an 83 I6 4.2 but I think it looks close.
: http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/valve.jpg
:
:
: There's some great animations at this site:
:
: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft1.htm
: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm
:
: Thanks,
:
: Bill
:
:
:
: "Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com> wrote in message
: news:OffPb.62637$nl2.29662@news01.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
: > Bill,
: > He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the
: > pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine
: but
: > the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a
rod
: > that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be
: removed
: > when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole.
: > While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make
: > sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated
nicely
: > in the lifter and at the rocker.
: > Typical valvetrain assembly:
: > Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to
: reciprocating
: > motion
: > Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns
: > Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker
: > Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward
: motion
: > on the valve
: > Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out
: > TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them
: > organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust)
: and
: > all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear
surfaces,
: > if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.
: > -Brian
: >
: > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
: > news:bujr9r$iaip9$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: > : Thanks for the tips Steve.
: > :
: > : A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm
: which
: > : connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into
the
: > : engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the
: > valve?
: > :
: > : If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down
into
: > the
: > : head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when
: > done.
: > :
: > :
: > : Thanks in advance,
: > :
: > : Bill
: > :
: > :
: > : "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
: > : news:91ePb.191732$X%5.57437@pd7tw2no...
: > : > 100 psi is fine. If you've got bad blowby or leaking valves you
made
: > need
: > : > the volume of a larger compressor to maintain 100 psi, but that's
: > : unlikely.
: > : > I wouldn't try to do it with one of those little ones intended to
: > inflate
: > : > tires only unless you can connect it to a large tank. If it can't
put
: > out
: > : > enough volume to keep up with the blowby (there's always some)
: pressure
: > : will
: > : > drop and so will the valve. You'll know as soon as you hook it up.
: If
: > : > you've never done this before a couple of notes.
: > : > Remove the rockers before applying air.
: > : > Be aware that when you plug the air in the engine is likely to turn
: over
: > a
: > : > bit to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke so watch where
your
: > : > hands, tools and cords are when you do this.
: > : > I make a habit of taking a hammer and tapping the top of the valve
: stem
: > : once
: > : > the air is holding them in place (springs still on) to ensure
they're
: > held
: > : > firmly. Then I remove the spring. A small pencil type magnet is
handy
: > for
: > : > getting the keepers out of the retainers once the spring is
: compressed,
: > : > especially if you've got fat fingers.
: > : > When reassembling , spring and keepers on and air removed take your
: > hammer
: > : > and tap the top of the valves again to make sure the keepers are
: seated
: > : > properly in the retainers. Don't forget to oil the new seals when
you
: > put
: > : > them on.
: > : > Steve
: > : > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
: > : > news:bujn7b$i1oes$1@ID-193866.news.uni-berlin.de...
: > : > > What amount of PSI or compressor strength do I need to support the
: > : valves
: > : > > when I take the springs off?
: > : > >
: > : > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough?
: > : > >
: > : > > Comments, suggestions are welcome.
: > : > >
: > : > > Thanks,
: > : > >
: > : > > Bill
: > : > >
: > : > >
: > : >
: > : >
: > :
: > :
: >
: >
:
: