JimG

Pictures would certainly help.

If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing. There
would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.

If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to the
bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then another
steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be threaded
for adjustment.


--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries


"sm3gurpal" <elambeth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:88f4ec61.0402290834.4e3f99b3@posting.google.c om...
> The problem is that I don't know enough to know what I'm looking at.
> (I did not put this jeep together, I am like the 5th owner.) I have
> been reliably informed by the previous owner that it has a centerforce
> III clutch and NV4500 manual transmission.
>
> If that's not enough info to determine whether it's a manual linkage
> or hydraulic, can you folks tell me roughly what I should look for to
> figure it out?
>
> I can crawl under there and snap some digital photos and post them to
> the web if it would help.
>
> > That manual transmission does not use hydraulics. It may be installed
with
> > a clutch/bell housing that use hydraulics. The 79 CJ did not come
original
> > with a hydraulic clutch.
> >
> > The OP needs to give us some more information.
> >
> > JimG
> >

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Pictures would certainly help.
>
> If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing. There
> would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
>
> If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to the
> bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then another
> steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be threaded
> for adjustment.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Pictures would certainly help.
>
> If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing. There
> would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
>
> If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to the
> bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then another
> steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be threaded
> for adjustment.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Pictures would certainly help.
>
> If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing. There
> would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
>
> If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to the
> bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then another
> steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be threaded
> for adjustment.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

Lee Ayrton

I've got a `79 CJ-5, 258, 3 speed manual. You should have the same setup
as mine, if you've still got original-style equipment.

Looking in the footwell on the driver's side, you should find an upright
metal rod about 3/8" in diameter passing through an oval rubber grommit in
the firewall. Wiggle the clutch pedal and you should see this rod (clutch
push rod) move up and down.

Open your hood and look at the firewall on the driver's side, find where
that metal rod exits. Follow it down to about floor height and you find
that it attaches to a bellcrank, a metal tube about 6" or so long. One
end of the tube is supported by a(n outer support) bracket bolted to the
body, the other end is supported by a(n inner support) bracket bolted to
the bellhousing (that cast aluminum dome between the engine and the
transmission.) There's a grease nipple on the back side.

Now crawl under the driver's side of the body (after chocking the wheels
-- safety first), find that tube again. Connected to it on the end
closest to the engine is a rod (release rod) that runs toward the rear.
(If you get lost here, have a friend move the clutch pedal a little for
you and see what moves.) Halfway along it's length there will be a jamnut
and a long hexagonal piece (adjuster) that looks like a nut that is 3"
deep with a ball on the back end. It connects to a narrow stamped metal
piece (throwout lever) that passes through a rubber boot in the side of
the bellhousing. All of this is probably crusted with dirt and oil.

Normal wear points: The push rod will wear out at the bottom where it
passes through the ear on the bell crank, this will add a lot of slop to
the clutch pedal. It is an easily obtained part.

There should be plastic bushings inside each end of the bellcrank held in
place by "C" clips, with grease boots over each one. These can break or
come loose, adding slop to the clutch pedal. The bushings and boots are
an easy replacement.

The ball joint on the forward end of the push rod can wear out, wiggle and
will eventually come apart.

It might just need adjustment, you do that by backing off the jamnut,
turning the adjuster in or out, and then locking it back into place with
the jamnut. But first make sure that the linkage is in good mechanical
condition. The bellcrank shouldn't wiggle, the push rod shouldn't move
while the bellcrank stays still, both support brackets should be firm, the
balljoint on the end of the release rod should be firm should not wiggle.
All of the wearable parts are easily obtained mailorder, so don't dispair
if you find something sloppy.

Good luck.


On Sun, 29 Feb 2004, sm3gurpal wrote:

> The problem is that I don't know enough to know what I'm looking at.
> (I did not put this jeep together, I am like the 5th owner.) I have
> been reliably informed by the previous owner that it has a centerforce
> III clutch and NV4500 manual transmission.
>
> If that's not enough info to determine whether it's a manual linkage
> or hydraulic, can you folks tell me roughly what I should look for to
> figure it out?
>
> I can crawl under there and snap some digital photos and post them to
> the web if it would help.
>
> > That manual transmission does not use hydraulics. It may be installed with
> > a clutch/bell housing that use hydraulics. The 79 CJ did not come original
> > with a hydraulic clutch.
> >
> > The OP needs to give us some more information.
> >
> > JimG
> >
>

Lee Ayrton

I've got a `79 CJ-5, 258, 3 speed manual. You should have the same setup
as mine, if you've still got original-style equipment.

Looking in the footwell on the driver's side, you should find an upright
metal rod about 3/8" in diameter passing through an oval rubber grommit in
the firewall. Wiggle the clutch pedal and you should see this rod (clutch
push rod) move up and down.

Open your hood and look at the firewall on the driver's side, find where
that metal rod exits. Follow it down to about floor height and you find
that it attaches to a bellcrank, a metal tube about 6" or so long. One
end of the tube is supported by a(n outer support) bracket bolted to the
body, the other end is supported by a(n inner support) bracket bolted to
the bellhousing (that cast aluminum dome between the engine and the
transmission.) There's a grease nipple on the back side.

Now crawl under the driver's side of the body (after chocking the wheels
-- safety first), find that tube again. Connected to it on the end
closest to the engine is a rod (release rod) that runs toward the rear.
(If you get lost here, have a friend move the clutch pedal a little for
you and see what moves.) Halfway along it's length there will be a jamnut
and a long hexagonal piece (adjuster) that looks like a nut that is 3"
deep with a ball on the back end. It connects to a narrow stamped metal
piece (throwout lever) that passes through a rubber boot in the side of
the bellhousing. All of this is probably crusted with dirt and oil.

Normal wear points: The push rod will wear out at the bottom where it
passes through the ear on the bell crank, this will add a lot of slop to
the clutch pedal. It is an easily obtained part.

There should be plastic bushings inside each end of the bellcrank held in
place by "C" clips, with grease boots over each one. These can break or
come loose, adding slop to the clutch pedal. The bushings and boots are
an easy replacement.

The ball joint on the forward end of the push rod can wear out, wiggle and
will eventually come apart.

It might just need adjustment, you do that by backing off the jamnut,
turning the adjuster in or out, and then locking it back into place with
the jamnut. But first make sure that the linkage is in good mechanical
condition. The bellcrank shouldn't wiggle, the push rod shouldn't move
while the bellcrank stays still, both support brackets should be firm, the
balljoint on the end of the release rod should be firm should not wiggle.
All of the wearable parts are easily obtained mailorder, so don't dispair
if you find something sloppy.

Good luck.


On Sun, 29 Feb 2004, sm3gurpal wrote:

> The problem is that I don't know enough to know what I'm looking at.
> (I did not put this jeep together, I am like the 5th owner.) I have
> been reliably informed by the previous owner that it has a centerforce
> III clutch and NV4500 manual transmission.
>
> If that's not enough info to determine whether it's a manual linkage
> or hydraulic, can you folks tell me roughly what I should look for to
> figure it out?
>
> I can crawl under there and snap some digital photos and post them to
> the web if it would help.
>
> > That manual transmission does not use hydraulics. It may be installed with
> > a clutch/bell housing that use hydraulics. The 79 CJ did not come original
> > with a hydraulic clutch.
> >
> > The OP needs to give us some more information.
> >
> > JimG
> >
>

Lee Ayrton

I've got a `79 CJ-5, 258, 3 speed manual. You should have the same setup
as mine, if you've still got original-style equipment.

Looking in the footwell on the driver's side, you should find an upright
metal rod about 3/8" in diameter passing through an oval rubber grommit in
the firewall. Wiggle the clutch pedal and you should see this rod (clutch
push rod) move up and down.

Open your hood and look at the firewall on the driver's side, find where
that metal rod exits. Follow it down to about floor height and you find
that it attaches to a bellcrank, a metal tube about 6" or so long. One
end of the tube is supported by a(n outer support) bracket bolted to the
body, the other end is supported by a(n inner support) bracket bolted to
the bellhousing (that cast aluminum dome between the engine and the
transmission.) There's a grease nipple on the back side.

Now crawl under the driver's side of the body (after chocking the wheels
-- safety first), find that tube again. Connected to it on the end
closest to the engine is a rod (release rod) that runs toward the rear.
(If you get lost here, have a friend move the clutch pedal a little for
you and see what moves.) Halfway along it's length there will be a jamnut
and a long hexagonal piece (adjuster) that looks like a nut that is 3"
deep with a ball on the back end. It connects to a narrow stamped metal
piece (throwout lever) that passes through a rubber boot in the side of
the bellhousing. All of this is probably crusted with dirt and oil.

Normal wear points: The push rod will wear out at the bottom where it
passes through the ear on the bell crank, this will add a lot of slop to
the clutch pedal. It is an easily obtained part.

There should be plastic bushings inside each end of the bellcrank held in
place by "C" clips, with grease boots over each one. These can break or
come loose, adding slop to the clutch pedal. The bushings and boots are
an easy replacement.

The ball joint on the forward end of the push rod can wear out, wiggle and
will eventually come apart.

It might just need adjustment, you do that by backing off the jamnut,
turning the adjuster in or out, and then locking it back into place with
the jamnut. But first make sure that the linkage is in good mechanical
condition. The bellcrank shouldn't wiggle, the push rod shouldn't move
while the bellcrank stays still, both support brackets should be firm, the
balljoint on the end of the release rod should be firm should not wiggle.
All of the wearable parts are easily obtained mailorder, so don't dispair
if you find something sloppy.

Good luck.


On Sun, 29 Feb 2004, sm3gurpal wrote:

> The problem is that I don't know enough to know what I'm looking at.
> (I did not put this jeep together, I am like the 5th owner.) I have
> been reliably informed by the previous owner that it has a centerforce
> III clutch and NV4500 manual transmission.
>
> If that's not enough info to determine whether it's a manual linkage
> or hydraulic, can you folks tell me roughly what I should look for to
> figure it out?
>
> I can crawl under there and snap some digital photos and post them to
> the web if it would help.
>
> > That manual transmission does not use hydraulics. It may be installed with
> > a clutch/bell housing that use hydraulics. The 79 CJ did not come original
> > with a hydraulic clutch.
> >
> > The OP needs to give us some more information.
> >
> > JimG
> >
>

JimG

Hi Bill,

I could be wrong about the plastic. Not having owned one, just going off
memory.

JimG

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40424E69.52332FDA@***.net...
> Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
> transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JimG wrote:
> >
> > Pictures would certainly help.
> >
> > If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> > drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing.
There
> > would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
> >
> > If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to
the
> > bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then
another
> > steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be
threaded
> > for adjustment.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

JimG

Hi Bill,

I could be wrong about the plastic. Not having owned one, just going off
memory.

JimG

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40424E69.52332FDA@***.net...
> Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
> transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JimG wrote:
> >
> > Pictures would certainly help.
> >
> > If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> > drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing.
There
> > would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
> >
> > If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to
the
> > bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then
another
> > steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be
threaded
> > for adjustment.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

JimG

Hi Bill,

I could be wrong about the plastic. Not having owned one, just going off
memory.

JimG

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40424E69.52332FDA@***.net...
> Plastic? Jeez, I hope someone smart enough to switch to an American
> transmission and clutch wouldn't use that.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JimG wrote:
> >
> > Pictures would certainly help.
> >
> > If it is hydraulic, there will be fluid reservoir under the hood on the
> > drivers side firewall and a plastic line down to the bell housing.
There
> > would also be a line from the clutch pedal to the reservoir.
> >
> > If is a manual clutch, the pedal will be connected with a steel rod to
the
> > bell crank (a steel tube with wings and grease fittings) and then
another
> > steel rod to the bell housing and clutch fork. This one would be
threaded
> > for adjustment.
> >
> > --
> > JimG
> > 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> > 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> > D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> > 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> > Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> > Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries