|
The clutch saga
I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other
emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. Any ideas? Will |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > Any ideas? > > Will > Air in the master will act like that. I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > Any ideas? > > Will > Air in the master will act like that. I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > Any ideas? > > Will > Air in the master will act like that. I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal
doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. HTH Carl "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > wbowlin@gmail.com wrote: >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> Any ideas? >> >> Will >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal
doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. HTH Carl "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > wbowlin@gmail.com wrote: >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> Any ideas? >> >> Will >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal
doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. HTH Carl "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > wbowlin@gmail.com wrote: >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> Any ideas? >> >> Will >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal > doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > HTH > > Carl > > "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > > > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> Any ideas? > > >> Will > > > Air in the master will act like that. > > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the last two days. Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal > doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > HTH > > Carl > > "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > > > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> Any ideas? > > >> Will > > > Air in the master will act like that. > > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the last two days. Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the pedal > doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > HTH > > Carl > > "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... > > > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> Any ideas? > > >> Will > > > Air in the master will act like that. > > > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to be > > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the last two days. Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
Let us know how it goes.
Carl <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the >> pedal >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. >> >> HTH >> >> Carl >> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >> >> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> >> Will >> >> > Air in the master will act like that. >> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? >> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to >> > be >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. >> >> > Mike >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > last two days. Thanks > |
Re: The clutch saga
Let us know how it goes.
Carl <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the >> pedal >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. >> >> HTH >> >> Carl >> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >> >> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> >> Will >> >> > Air in the master will act like that. >> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? >> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to >> > be >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. >> >> > Mike >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > last two days. Thanks > |
Re: The clutch saga
Let us know how it goes.
Carl <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the >> pedal >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. >> >> HTH >> >> Carl >> >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >> >> news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com... >> >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... >> >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> >> Will >> >> > Air in the master will act like that. >> >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? >> >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to >> > be >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. >> >> > Mike >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > last two days. Thanks > |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes. > > Carl > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > > > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: > >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the > >> pedal > >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > >> HTH > > >> Carl > > >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com... > > >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> >> Any ideas? > > >> >> Will > > >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to > >> > be > >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > >> > Mike > >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > > last two days. Thanks I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the slave. This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm. I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no bubbles). This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line, right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly different than the original, but not significantly different. I believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling = no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could cheat up to stop signs and lights. When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes. Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at this point. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes. > > Carl > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > > > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: > >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the > >> pedal > >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > >> HTH > > >> Carl > > >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com... > > >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> >> Any ideas? > > >> >> Will > > >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to > >> > be > >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > >> > Mike > >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > > last two days. Thanks I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the slave. This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm. I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no bubbles). This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line, right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly different than the original, but not significantly different. I believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling = no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could cheat up to stop signs and lights. When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes. Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at this point. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 20, 10:32 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Let us know how it goes. > > Carl > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172027123.353026.29840@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com... > > > On Feb 20, 8:27 pm, "Carl S" <carlsai...@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote: > >> I agree. Pull the master and bench bleed it all the way. Sometimes the > >> pedal > >> doesn't quite reach the end of the travel for the master. > > >> HTH > > >> Carl > > >> "Mike Romain" <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > > >>news:45dba561$0$6586$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshost ing.com... > > >> > wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > >> >> I posted this a couple of days ago in response to one of my other > >> >> emails but have not received any replies. I am putting it in its own > >> >> topic so sorry if this bothers anyone... > > >> >> I have replaced my clutch end to end (minus the line) and am having > >> >> issues with it maintaining pedal pressure. When I bleed it, it > >> >> appears that all the air is out of the system. The pedal feels nice > >> >> and firm when pushing on it. However, the moment I start the engine, > >> >> the pedal starts to get soft to the point I can't put it in gear. I > >> >> have teflon tape around the bleeder screw. I did not bench bleed the > >> >> master, the instructions did not mention it. I do not see any leaks. > >> >> Any ideas? > > >> >> Will > > >> > Air in the master will act like that. > > >> > I do thing you said you didn't bench bleed it? > > >> > Some just need to be pumped like mad to get the air out, some have to > >> > be > >> > perfectly level and pushed in deeper than the pedal can do it. > > >> > Mike > >> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > >> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > >> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > >> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > >> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > Alright guys. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. It > > will give me an excuse to get out in the great weather we've had the > > last two days. Thanks I did not bench bleed the master by putting it on a bench, but here is what I did. I took a piece of hydraulic line and looped it around from the hydraulic fitting in the master cylinder back into the reservoir. I disconnected the master cylinder plunger from the clutch pedal and pumped it in and let it release until I didn't see any more bubbles looping around into the reservoir. I then quickly swapped the piece of hydraulic line for the hydraulic line that goes to the slave. This didn't help much at all. The pedal would get firm while bleeding it, but soon after starting the engine the pedal would not engage until close to the bottom of the stroke and the transmission could not be put in gear. I was skeptical on the clutch line because of issues sealing it earlier, and I guess I like to continue to sink money into this, so I replaced the clutch line. I bled the system, but did not re-bleed the master as above, and the clutch got real firm. I bled it as follows: I had a friend pump the pedal a few times and had her hold it to the floor. I hooked a vacuum pump to the bleeder valve and built up pressure. I then cracked the bleeder valve just enough for fluid and air to escape. I had a clear tube hooked up to it and fed it into a small container with a couple inches of fluid in it. I did this 3-4 times until the air bubbles stopped developing. I made sure the master reservoir remained full. I then repeated this a couple more times without the vacuum pump and all seemed well (no bubbles). This seemed like it was going to work out. I started the engine and let it warm up, as it is now cold here again. I went out and depressed the clutch and worked it through the gears. I did this several times. It was working so I thought all was good. I went for a drive and about 5 minutes into it the pedal went almost to the floor before it engaged. I could not get the tranny out of second gear until I slowed and pumped the pedal several times. It then would work OK for a while then it would repeat. I then noticed a pattern. When I replaced the clutch line I only connected one of the 2 bolts that held it to the body (since I wanted to test the clutch pressure before permanently bolting down since the bolts are tricky to get to), When driving I would sometimes here a loud rattle in the vicinity of the clutch pedal area, but on the other side of the firewall. This is also the area where the rubber hose turns to metal on the clutch line, right before bending under the vehicle. The line is slightly different than the original, but not significantly different. I believe the metal of the hose was rattling against the body pretty rapidly, sounding like a bad vibration. At this time if I tried to shift the tranny, the clutch would not have much pressure at all. I observed this pattern continue as I limped the jeep home. Rattling = no pressure. I had issues with maintaining pressure the whole way home. What is weird is that it seemed like it was better when shifting to third, but I couldn't observe a pattern there because I was scared of being stuck in third, so it might have been coincidental that it seemed good the couple of times I tried it. At least in 2nd I could cheat up to stop signs and lights. When I got home I parked the jeep and went inside the house to wallow. I then came out a few minutes later and pressed the clutch pedal. It was solid as I pressed it. Just like it was when I bled it. Not after pumping either. On the first couple of strokes. Anybody have any ideas? I feel I replaced the various clutch parts to spec. It seemed rather straight forward. I don't know what to do at this point. |
Re: The clutch saga
From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - sometimes. One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your case. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: The clutch saga
From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - sometimes. One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your case. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: The clutch saga
From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system?
Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - sometimes. One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your case. -- Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com> |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - >> sometimes. >> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your >> case. >> >> -- >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? Any soot marks on the old parts? Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - >> sometimes. >> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your >> case. >> >> -- >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? Any soot marks on the old parts? Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
wbowlin@gmail.com wrote:
> On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - >> sometimes. >> >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your >> case. >> >> -- >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? Any soot marks on the old parts? Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: The clutch saga
Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed
from the master cylinder, too. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: The clutch saga
Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed
from the master cylinder, too. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: The clutch saga
Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed
from the master cylinder, too. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 6:43 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote: > Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed > from the master cylinder, too. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 6:43 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote: > Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed > from the master cylinder, too. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 6:43 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net>
wrote: > Push the line down so as the remove the air from that loop, and bleed > from the master cylinder, too. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > <wbow...@gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1172582885.424952.146780@q2g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? Thanks |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 9:40 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > >> sometimes. > > >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > >> case. > > >> -- > >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? > > Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it > blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? > > Any soot marks on the old parts? > > Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened > bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then > lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. > > I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) I don't think it is boiling. The line is not close to the exhaust. I will drive it around some more and make sure the line is not hot when it starts acting up. I have flushed the old fluid out in order to eliminate old fluid as the problem. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 9:40 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > >> sometimes. > > >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > >> case. > > >> -- > >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? > > Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it > blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? > > Any soot marks on the old parts? > > Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened > bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then > lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. > > I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) I don't think it is boiling. The line is not close to the exhaust. I will drive it around some more and make sure the line is not hot when it starts acting up. I have flushed the old fluid out in order to eliminate old fluid as the problem. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 9:40 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> wbow...@gmail.com wrote: > > On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote: > >> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > >> Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > >> internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > >> installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > >> pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > >> residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > >> had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > >> a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > >> master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > >> the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > >> sometimes. > > >> One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > >> If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > >> case. > > >> -- > >> Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> > > > I haven't driven it enough to ever have to add fluid. I have replaced > > the clutch end to end in the last few weeks. I replaced the slave, > > clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pressure plate in one weekend, > > replaced the master the next weekend, then replaced the hose this last > > weekend. I haven't been driving during that time recently because of > > the clutch issue (and it is not my daily driver). I may have gotten a > > bad master, but I don't know how to tell. I could take the master > > back to the parts store and try a new one, but I wondered if it > > sounded like anything else. Especially the way the hose was slapping > > against the body of the jeep. That seemed odd to me. > > Any chance the exhaust is too close to the clutch line? > > Any chance the exhaust or the header bellows has a (that) crack in it > blowing a stream of superheated exhaust air at the clutch line? > > Any soot marks on the old parts? > > Was the hydraulic fluid the right kind and out of a freshly opened > bottle? Brake fluid can absorb an amazing amount of water which then > lowers the boiling point of the fluid 'way' down. > > I am thinking your clutch fluid is boiling maybe.... > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) I don't think it is boiling. The line is not close to the exhaust. I will drive it around some more and make sure the line is not hot when it starts acting up. I have flushed the old fluid out in order to eliminate old fluid as the problem. |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out. However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in. This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something wrong now or does this sound like a component failure? |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out. However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in. This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something wrong now or does this sound like a component failure? |
Re: The clutch saga
On Feb 27, 12:44 am, Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From the details you give, I have to ask: did you flush the whole system? > Reason I ask is that I had a used slave/master set when I swapped out the > internal slave and the master finally gave up a couple of years later. I > installed a new master, let it bleed itself ( the external slave will do a > pretty good job of self bleed in half an hour or so since there is no > residual pressure like a brake system has). Six months later, I sometimes > had a good clutch, sometimes could get it to work by pumping like mad, and > a couple of times came home shifting w/o a clutch. When I pulled the > master, it was full of black gunk that was messing up the rubber valve in > the end of the cylinder and not letting the master prime itself - > sometimes. > > One thing you never mentioned: do you have to add fluid every so often? > If so, you have a leak somewhere otherwise you have a poltergeist on your > case. > > -- > Will Honea <who...@yahoo.com> I flushed the old fluid out of the line today, and while re-bleeding I noticed something peculiar. I would pump the pedal a few times, hold the pedal down, crack the bleeder valve, and let the fluid run out. However, while the fluid ran out it felt like air was rushing in. This would occur for a few seconds. I could hear (sounds like bubbles rushing up the line) and feel it in the clutch line. Small bubbles also formed in the master while doing this. Am I doing something wrong now or does this sound like a component failure? |
Re: The clutch saga
The XJ and YJ clutch master cylinders I've replaced, have always had a
the hydraulic line looped and attached to the firewall above the cylinder level from the factory that will hold air if allowed to stay at that level during bleeding. Detach and push it down level with the fitting you'll be bleeding. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1173050625.977351.94260@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com > > I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go > about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? > > Thanks > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: The clutch saga
The XJ and YJ clutch master cylinders I've replaced, have always had a
the hydraulic line looped and attached to the firewall above the cylinder level from the factory that will hold air if allowed to stay at that level during bleeding. Detach and push it down level with the fitting you'll be bleeding. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1173050625.977351.94260@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com > > I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go > about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? > > Thanks > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: The clutch saga
The XJ and YJ clutch master cylinders I've replaced, have always had a
the hydraulic line looped and attached to the firewall above the cylinder level from the factory that will hold air if allowed to stay at that level during bleeding. Detach and push it down level with the fitting you'll be bleeding. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <wbowlin@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1173050625.977351.94260@v33g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com > > I don't follow on how to bleed from the master cylinder or how to go > about pushing down the loop. Care to expand on those suggestions? > > Thanks > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
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