Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
Hello,
I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
this sound like the culprit?
I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
so I will attempt this first.
In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
this sound like the culprit?
I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
so I will attempt this first.
In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
You need to check the fluid. 50/50 odds are it's the slave cylinder,
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
You need to check the fluid. 50/50 odds are it's the slave cylinder,
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
You need to check the fluid. 50/50 odds are it's the slave cylinder,
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
not the MC.
It might just need fluid, but if it's low it leaked somewhere you need
to find the leak....
On my Jeep, I can just put it in 2nd or 3rd gear and hit the starter.
It will start right up in gear and go.
You 'might' have a clutch interlock on yours, so the clutch pedal might
need to be down for the starter to turn, but same deal it will start in
gear and drive ok.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Scott wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently purchased a 91 Jeep Wranger. 100k Miles, New Paint, Engine
> in very good condition, never been off road, etc...100-200 miles after
> purchase, had some problems with Shifting.
>
> First, had problems getting into 1st gear at a stop, was able to get
> it in after a few minutes of trying, soon after no problems shifting.
> Next day, same issues, but managed to get it in gear and get it home.
> When I pulled on my street, I had problems getting it out of 1st gear,
> but was able to do so. Right now it is sitting on the side of my
> street, can not get the jeep into any gear.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
>
> I have ordered the part and plan to replace the Master Cylinder.
>
> Has anyone had related problems that they could share. I hope that I
> don't have to replace the slave (significantly more work and expense),
> so I will attempt this first.
>
> In the meantime, is there any thing that I can do to get able to get
> the car a couple of blocks to the house (safely)?
>
> Any comments are greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
Scott wrote:
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
Scott wrote:
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch Problems/MC Issues. Please help.
Scott wrote:
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> I spoke with a mechanic and was told that the Master Cylinder needs to
> be replaced. I was told that this occurs on these jeeps and there is
> no warning when it happens, weather can play a role in this. Does
> this sound like the culprit?
The bad news is you have an internal clutch slave cylinder that not only
is prone to failure; it costs a LOT to replace or is a serious pain in
the *** to do yourself.
The good news is it might only be the master cylinder or a leak in the
line. Due to the pain in the ***/expensive factor, the MC and line
should probably be replaced before messing with the slave.
One thing you can do is bleed the line. Trace it down from the MC and
find where it enters the bell housing, there will be another line
sticking out a few inches that ends in a tiny little (3/16th?) bleeder
valve, these feel loose (the slave cyl. moves and the lines pivot).
If that works you're good to go for a little bit. If not you can start
it in gear.
If you have to start it in gear there's a technique called "floating".
Once you're moving you can get the shifter out of gear by revving high
and letting off the gas suddenly, the shifter should slip out with light
pressure, quickly (but not forcibly) get the shifter to the next gate
and hold it there (light pressure, almost no force is needed). and when
the gears are just right (synchronized with one another) the shifter
should slip or "float" right into gear. If you miss (get some grinding)
just take the shifter off the gate again, goose the gas pedal, and let
the RPM's fall (it helps a lot if you slow the RPM drop with your foot
still giving it gas) until it floats in. What you're basically doing is
trying to get the output side gears and the gears of the input side to
move at roughly the same RPM so they can mesh.
It's important to realize that this technique is ENTIRELY dependent on
road speed and your RPM's... It's got nothing to do with "gear jamming"
it's pure finesse. Once you get it down, you'll never be stranded by a
clutch hydraulics related problem again.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein